Motul are one of the only companies to own their own refinery. so its heavily controlled how they make their base stocks. Good choice sir
Lets talk engine oil....!
141 - 156 of 156 Posts
Motul is rubbish as well. I tried the 5100 10w40 in my r3 and even in my ybr125 and the gears begin to feel clunky after just a few miles. Now I use the cheapest rheinol 10w-40 semi synthetic oil for diesel or unleaded engines made in germany and its great.
Joined
·
1,395 Posts
I did the same today. Planning on doing the change in the warmer weather with an OEM filter. Was thinking about getting the magnetic drain plug from yamahar3racing.com as well.
PAO/ ESTER's are a weird thing.
My Father works for an oil company (im not talking BS on a keyboard)
and the highest end oils, the grp 4/5 pao ester's are seriously thin oils when they reach temp. its not saying that they don't meet the specs. they do. but I have the same issue as well. I was running 10W 40 as per the manual. and when the bike got hot. it got clunky. Exactly how you describe
Now I told my Dad. And the company invited me to go to the lab to see what was happening.
in my particular case it was a pressure issue. As the oil Analysis showed perfect ranges with viscosity. the anti wear additives in this case it was Molybdenum and Zinc (ZDDP)
PAO's and esters as they are really thin their pressure is higher. so a 10W 40 will have HIGHER pressures than a stock grp3,4 10W40. so I jumped to the 15W 50 and its right in the sweet spot.
as I am not running an oil cooler when it gets super hot (in Australia we have seen ambient of 112F or 41-43 degrees CELSIUS .
it goes into the perfect range for the bike. a 15W will still crank in -15 degree temps. And then be absolute fine for the BullShite Heat that we suffer through]
My Father works for an oil company (im not talking BS on a keyboard)
and the highest end oils, the grp 4/5 pao ester's are seriously thin oils when they reach temp. its not saying that they don't meet the specs. they do. but I have the same issue as well. I was running 10W 40 as per the manual. and when the bike got hot. it got clunky. Exactly how you describe
Now I told my Dad. And the company invited me to go to the lab to see what was happening.
in my particular case it was a pressure issue. As the oil Analysis showed perfect ranges with viscosity. the anti wear additives in this case it was Molybdenum and Zinc (ZDDP)
PAO's and esters as they are really thin their pressure is higher. so a 10W 40 will have HIGHER pressures than a stock grp3,4 10W40. so I jumped to the 15W 50 and its right in the sweet spot.
as I am not running an oil cooler when it gets super hot (in Australia we have seen ambient of 112F or 41-43 degrees CELSIUS .
it goes into the perfect range for the bike. a 15W will still crank in -15 degree temps. And then be absolute fine for the BullShite Heat that we suffer through]
why did you buy oil you wont use for weeks lol.
out of curiosity.what are you min temps and max temps in your state/ country etc?
Joined
·
1,206 Posts
Lol! Just two weeks. I like to plan ahead but I think I'll change it on Feb. 11
I live in Costa Rica. Temperatures range from 59F to 85F depending on the zone. It's summer now and the average temperature is 75F. I was thinking that I could have bought 15W50 instead of 10W40 but it will be for next time.
YeapNothing wrong with stocking on some oil to use for later. I still have a 4L container from last year that I'll be putting in one of my bikes in the spring because when I buy it, I usually don't just get one. I get enough to last me about a year
you havent learnt anything I said.
you run the oil your manufacturer says. so if it says 40 or 50 use that. as I said the W number relates to minimum temperatures and isnt as important.
Joined
·
33 Posts
who said it went off ?
Joined
·
33 Posts
Originally Posted by jbk
why did you buy oil you wont use for weeks lol.
why did you buy oil you wont use for weeks lol.
what is your context and point bro?
also this is my oil analysis after 900 miles. not an oil I recommend
141 - 156 of 156 Posts
