Yamaha R3 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 74 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Race fairings are the next thing on my list, here's what I've found:

Catalyst composites sounds the best quality of any of the ones I've seen thus far. Looks the best, lets me keep the seat stock (I just want a stock seat). $954

Spears sells a set for MUCH cheaper $584 and I get a racer discount so maybe even cheaper.

Jesse sells the same kit as Spears for slightly less $550.

I've been told the two kits that Jessi and Spears sell are crap (hot bodies). One of my friends uses it and it looks like **** and he's had a ton of issues getting it to fit right.

Last but not least is the Armor Bodies kit that STG sells. At $699 is a solid mid level price point, it looks like its not garbage and should hold up much better than the others.


What are your thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
810 Posts
I have the Catalyst Composites. They are SUPER stiff. It is very difficult to get the upper on since the bottom won't flex open enough to get it past the front forks. Instead you have to go from side to side to get it on. The CC bodywork does fit up pretty nicely though. I didn't have any problems with that. The undertail cover is a nice part too.

As for crashing, I shattered the right front of the tail section in a low side crash and parts of the upper part of the windshield area. The brake line also tore through part of the right side upper fairing during the crash when the clip on broke off.

I have crashed several times with Pit-Eck with my SV and never had this bad of damage. Granted, every crash is different. I am just a bit disappointed in how well it held up.

I have been looking at the Carbonin Bodywork. I know it is a lot more expensive than the other fairings, but I want something that is going to survive a crash better than what I currently have. I don't want to have to buy a tail section each time I crash.

I might even try out the Pit-Eck stuff since it is so cheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
I have the Hotbodies kit from Jesse. IMO, it's not crap. The fit was slightly off in some parts, but that just means you drill in a spot different than what is pre-marked on the fairing. Follow Jesse's how to and it is a relatively straightforward install. I am happy with the end result. It is on straight, not cracked and took paint well.

All my prior track fairing experience was with Sharkskinz - I do wish they made a kit for the R3.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for all the comments. I'm really leaning towards armor bodies or the pit-eck stuff. Pit-eck is just so cheap I can't deny it's got my curious.


I've never been down before so I can't comment on any bodywork and how well it holds up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
810 Posts
Like @Deddie said about Sharkskinz. I would buy Sharkskinz in a heart beat if they made R3 fairings. They simply are the best. At least from my experience with them. Super flexible, super light, and crash really well. I would really like to see the Carbonin or Armor Bodies to see how they would compare.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Like @Deddie said about Sharkskinz. I would buy Sharkskinz in a heart beat if they made R3 fairings. They simply are the best. At least from my experience with them. Super flexible, super light, and crash really well. I would really like to see the Carbonin or Armor Bodies to see how they would compare.


I just emailed Sharkskins to see if they had any plans to release any in the next few months. If so I'll hold off and get sharkskinz.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Brand-wise I'm not overly picky, but I'm going to put either an Aprilia RS250 fairing on my racebike or the TZ250 fairing that I already have. Reason: Aerodynamics. The rules in the two clubs that I am most likely to race with allow any fairing for the lightweight class. I can't for the life of me understand why virtually no one takes advantage of this. Even a small aerodynamic advantage is huge in a class where the horsepower is low and modifications are limited. It's basically free horsepower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
I have the Armor Bodies bodywork on my R3. They were really stiff when I first put them on but since they have been on the bike for a while now, they have become easier to move around. I really like the removable top section of the tail section, which allows access to electronics without having to take the whole tail section off.

Ive used all kinds of bodywork and it amazes me that in 2016, nobody makes a set that bolts on without having to shave fiberglass off, or make brackets for or break a sweat trying to mount the stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
810 Posts
Brand-wise I'm not overly picky, but I'm going to put either an Aprilia RS250 fairing on my racebike or the TZ250 fairing that I already have. Reason: Aerodynamics. The rules in the two clubs that I am most likely to race with allow any fairing for the lightweight class. I can't for the life of me understand why virtually no one takes advantage of this. Even a small aerodynamic advantage is huge in a class where the horsepower is low and modifications are limited. It's basically free horsepower.
For Yamaha contingency you have to run fairings that look like the R3 OEM fairings.

Not sure if I am going to try to find a 2016 or a 2017 R3 to continue to chase money or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
I have the Armor Bodies bodywork on my R3. They were really stiff when I first put them on but since they have been on the bike for a while now, they have become easier to move around. I really like the removable top section of the tail section, which allows access to electronics without having to take the whole tail section off.

Ive used all kinds of bodywork and it amazes me that in 2016, nobody makes a set that bolts on without having to shave fiberglass off, or make brackets for or break a sweat trying to mount the stuff.
I'm running Armour Bodies on both my race bikes. By far the best fitment and ready to paint bodywork IMO. It is actually quite flexible as far as impact resistance but it is stiff when mounting and removing the upper section.

Love love love the removable top tail section for quick electronics access. Also has the best clearance when running under triple tree clip ons.

I'm a super aggressive racer so I cut away a bit of the top right "air cover" in order to have clearance for my aftermarket Master Cylinder so my clip ons could emulate the tilt and angles of the R6 and R1 race bikes of mine.

If you are a true racer and have removed the complete kickstand you will lose one of the left belly pan mounting points but it can be offset by mounting towards the chain guard utilizing a stock frame hole.

If you are running an aggressive full system race exhaust you may need to also cut about 3 inches off the top back of the belly pan to allow clearance for your pipe.

I am running a full system Hindel and needed to do that. These are basic mods that from what I have experienced exists on all the R3 option bodywork available.

Woodcraft Racing has a great price on the body work as well, and they will work special deals for licensed racers.

Hope this all helps someone. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gizmo

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
I'm a super aggressive racer so I cut away a bit of the top right "air cover" in order to have clearance for my aftermarket Master Cylinder so my clip ons could emulate the tilt and angles of the R6 and R1 race bikes of mine.

Whats up with the clip-ons on the blue bike? It looks like they are mounted with the clamps on the wrong side, making the angles more like a dirt-bike, and less like a superbike. Was that done on purpose?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Whats up with the clip-ons on the blue bike? It looks like they are mounted with the clamps on the wrong side, making the angles more like a dirt-bike, and less like a superbike. Was that done on purpose?
Good eye, and yes i flipped the left to right as a test. It felt just fine but ultimately the super-bike position won out and it was converted back. Now they both are set up like the yellow bike and handle amazingly. For anyone who doesn't have the body work clearance or desire to cut out the clearance, running Driven Halo Clip ons and flipping them left to right will provide ample clearance and a much more desirable riding position than inverting the stock clip ons and most definitely better than running clip ons on top of the triple tree.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Good eye, and yes i flipped the left to right as a test. It felt just fine but ultimately the super-bike position won out and it was converted back. Now they both are set up like the yellow bike and handle amazingly. For anyone who doesn't have the body work clearance or desire to cut out the clearance, running Driven Halo Clip ons and flipping them left to right will provide ample clearance and a much more desirable riding position than inverting the stock clip ons and most definitely better than running clip ons on top of the triple tree.
Understandable.. I ended up with the Woodcraft clip-ons. They have the tube on the outside of the fork tube, not in front of it. Clearance isn't and issue, and comfort-wise, I like the wide positioning. Im just a little concerned how it will affect its crashability, with them so wide.
Ive seen bikes where guys accidentally get the pieces mixed up when installing clip-ons, so that just kinda stuck out to me. It would probably be good for street riding, but I cant imagine its very comfortable when racing around a track.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
I have tried Optimal racing, Hotbodies, Rockwall and Armor bodies on my R6.

Armor bodies is the most flexible - means less chance to shatter on impact
Rockwall and Optimal are in the same quality but not as great as Armor bodies

Hotbodies was ...crap. Extremely stiff and could not line it up well, so I sold it the same day for 1/2 the price and forwarded the headache to someone else. That guy crashed at the track and the bodywork exploded during a low side.

On the R3, I have Armor bodies, fit pretty well. As has been mentioned, it needs some trimming on the tail so you can get the seat off without removing tail section, and on the lowers for clearance for exhaust
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Just emailed sharkskinz the other day and they say they will have the molds done sometime in January. I will probably just go for the Armor Bodies.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
I should have elaborated. I probably need bodywork before mid january, so thats why I will probably go with the Armor Bodies. Otherwise I would love to buy the Sharkskinz.
 
1 - 20 of 74 Posts
Top