Looking for brake mounting bolt predrilled

abvc · 2016-03-11

Hi guys & vendors, I am looking for brake mounting bolt predrilled for both brakes. Can someone tell me where to buy, or sell one? I can't find it in ebay. For racing.

rito

· #2 · Mar 11, 2016

https://www.spearsenterprises.com/yamaha-r-3.html

Try here.

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zdaman

· #3 · Mar 11, 2016

I get all my fasteners from Pro Bolt USA.

I'm addicted to titanium and carbon fiber.

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Stirz

· #4 · Mar 11, 2016

Google: 'wire lockable metric bolts' and I think you'll find several vendors. Also, aircraft parts or milspec parts vendors will have them - they'e out there if you do a bit of legwork.
Or just buy some 1/16" or 3/32" drill bits and make your own.

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abvc

Discussion Starter · #5 · Mar 12, 2016

im in australia so the shops are different. will try to find those aircraft, or do you know the specs of oil bolt and both brake bolts?

i'm going to drill i think, can the torx bolt for the brake be drilled? it is concave model.

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Stirz

· #6 · Mar 12, 2016 (Edited)

The factory bolts are "button head socket cap screws" - really hard if not near impossible to drill. Remove them, take them to your local hardware-type place and buy a couple "socket head cap screws" same size/thread/length.

Try to get the exact length if you can or go a bit longer and grind/cut them to length. Too long and bolts will hit brake rotor. Too short and your brake caliper may fall off. A little long is preferable to too short. Don't remember exactly what they are, probably M8 or M10. Get a couple of nuts too. Thread the nuts on your bolt (tightly) and use them to clamp the bolt in a vice or vice-grips so the bolt doesn't try to rotate while you're drilling it. Drill the bolt head so that the hole goes through the socket flats. Clean up the burrs in the socket so you can get your wrench in there later. If you need to shorten the bolts, thread a nut on first - it'll help clean up the threads after. You may go through a couple of bits and bolts before you get two good ones. You end up with something like this:

Safety wire bolts are common in the aircraft industry, so you can sometimes find them under 'aircraft parts' or 'aircraft fasteners', but for me it was just easier to make my own. Don't forget Loctite.

See less See more

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Kojiiro

· #7 · Mar 12, 2016 (Edited)

Stirz said:
The factory bolts are "button head socket cap screws" - really hard if not near impossible to drill. Remove them, take them to your local hardware-type place and buy a couple "socket head cap screws" same size/thread/length.

Try to get the exact length if you can or go a bit longer and grind/cut them to length. Too long and bolts will hit brake rotor. Too short and your brake caliper may fall off. A little long is preferable to too short. Don't remember exactly what they are, probably M8 or M10. Get a couple of nuts too. Thread the nuts on your bolt (tightly) and use them to clamp the bolt in a vice or vice-grips so the bolt doesn't try to rotate while you're drilling it. Drill the bolt head so that the hole goes through the socket flats. Clean up the burrs in the socket so you can get your wrench in there later. If you need to shorten the bolts, thread a nut on first - it'll help clean up the threads after. You may go through a couple of bits and bolts before you get two good ones. You end up with something like this:

Safety wire bolts are common in the aircraft industry, so you can sometimes find them under 'aircraft parts' or 'aircraft fasteners', but for me it was just easier to make my own. Don't forget Loctite.

I was going to mention loctite after you said they may be a bit short. Then I realized that with safety wire, wouldn't it be impossible to actually rotate them loose if done properly? Loctite definitely wouldn't hurt but with safety wire properly done you may not even need it.

Edit: if you have access to a proper stil press with a vise, it's very easy. I drilled oem R6 caliper bolts at work with no problems.

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Stirz

· #8 · Mar 12, 2016

The plate the bolts thread into is not very thick and the bolts were just long enough to end up flush with back side (toward rotor) of the plate. If you go much shorter than stockers, I'd be concerned about not enough thread when you torque it - resulting in stripping it out - you only get two or three threads of purchase as it is, so....safety wire AND Loctite was my call.

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abvc

Discussion Starter · #9 · Mar 12, 2016 (Edited)

Can you post photo of the wire line, where to tie it to? Is stock bolt really that hard? Yamaha said to just drill it.

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Stirz

· #10 · Mar 12, 2016 (Edited)

Remove one of the rotor mount bolts and look at it - because it's a button head:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#97763a362/=11ide38 , it will be much more difficult to drill than this:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90152a342/=11idby4

Safety wire routing shown in photo posted - I used a drilled banjo bolt to 'tie it off'. There's a ton of on-line resources for 'how to' safety wire. Not much else I can offer. Good luck.

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abvc

Discussion Starter · #11 · Mar 12, 2016

Oh yea it looks clearer now. Cant the wire link only betweeen the 2 mounting bolts? Is it enough for the wiring standard? My bike is stock and never had experience loose bolt in stock. I hope they lighten up the requirement.

I am going to the Australia R3 cup btw.

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Stirz

· #12 · Mar 12, 2016

abvc said:
Oh yea it looks clearer now. Cant the wire link only betweeen the 2 mounting bolts? Is it enough for the wiring standard? My bike is stock and never had experience loose bolt in stock. I hope they lighten up the requirement.

I am going to the Australia R3 cup btw.

Refer to the applicable tech rules for your race organization. You may also need to safety wire radiator cap, oil filler and drain plugs (predrilled ones readily available - see oil drain plug thread), oil filter, water pump drain screw, axle nuts, etc. My current race rules do not require securing banjo bolts, but I still do it anyway.

You may want to track down Aufitt - he would know what's required for R3 cup rules.

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abvc

Discussion Starter · #13 · Mar 16, 2016

Just finished drilling 2 brake bolts. Just knew drill bit can go dull. Cost me 5 drill bits.

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Stirz

· #14 · Mar 16, 2016 (Edited)

If you break or burn up a bit part way through, you may be better off starting with a new bolt or at least abandoning that hole - chances are, you'll immediately burn up another bit if you keep trying to drill the hole you just burned up a bit in. Get the cobalt bits - usually good for about twice as many holes as HSS.

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abvc

Discussion Starter · #15 · Mar 16, 2016

i just kept going on. was tempted to start a new hole.

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Aufitt

· #16 · Mar 16, 2016 (Edited)

Probolt

https://www.probolt-australia.com/

Costs a Kidney and a Testicle, but as said the button heads are hard to drill. (Even though Im a Mech fitter and can do it)
Saves the originals for when you sell the bike stock, and can use the Probolts on the next build.

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abvc

Discussion Starter · #17 · Mar 17, 2016

I think having the hole can increase bike value, it is for safety anyway.

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Kojiiro

· #18 · Mar 17, 2016

abvc said:
I think having the hole can increase bike value, it is for safety anyway.

It can work against you as well. People who see safety wire will typically think " Oh safety wire, it was probably a track or race bike" and those bikes, at least in California, seem to fetch less money than just a regular old street bike.

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