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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Howdy all!

So, last weekend I installed a front steel braided brake line to go with my Vesrah front pads. Installation went fine. I used DOT 4 fluid, the bleeding went fine and cruising around my neighborhood the brake setup felt very good. I had tremendous lever pressure and feel and the brakes were useable all the from casual stop to a panic situation.

I was also installing from fork emulators. That was a mess because of a stripped damper rod bolt. After breaking down and removing the bolt with an Easy Out I had to temporarily reuse it, because literally no one but Yamaha sells the bolt that holds the damper rods to the bottom of the forks. As fate would have it they didn't have the bolt in stock and had to order it. I ordered two.

So what does one have to do with the other you may ask. I was being very gentle with the reused, stripped bolt and it leaked a small amount of fork oil while I was at work. When I got home I realized the wheel had flung the oil all over the front of the bike, I'm sure some got on the rotor and thus the pad. This was about the same time I noticed I no longer had much "bite" in the front brakes. I pulled everything off the front of the bike and used brake cleaner on all it, rotor included. I also re-bled the brakes. Just in case. Fast forward to this weekend and I still don't have even the bite of the stock system. I took the front wheel off and VERY thoroughly cleaned the rotor and took the caliper off and cleaned off the pads themselves. Then my dad came over and re-inspected my bleeding and after two squeezes pronounced it air free.

Since last weekend the brakes have been bled three times, the rotor cleaned twice and the pads once. There doesn't appear to be any glazing and the bike is mostly getting road for commuting, which is about ten minutes of stop-and-go and 12 minutes on the freeway.

I'm out of ideas. Does anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks ahead of time!

Giff

PS At the very end of most stops the front brakes now emit a small squeak? I've no idea where this came from. Also looking for an explanation of anyone has one.
 

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Is your bike ABS? Bleeding is significantly more complicated if it is.
I have almost no doubt that the brakes just haven't been bled sufficiently. Do you have a vacuum bleeder? That'll do the job a lot quicker and easier
And I can't see how it would be possible to diagnose the brakes being bled sufficiently after "two squeezes"
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
my guess is your pads are trashed if they got oil in them.

Brake pads soak up everything like a sponge.
I didn't know that, but I'll swap the old ones back in and see if that makes any improvements. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is your bike ABS? Bleeding is significantly more complicated if it is.
I have almost no doubt that the brakes just haven't been bled sufficiently. Do you have a vacuum bleeder? That'll do the job a lot quicker and easier
And I can't see how it would be possible to diagnose the brakes being bled sufficiently after "two squeezes"
No ABS, so that's not a thing.

As far as the actual bleeding goes, there is absolutely no air/bubbles of any kind coming out of that system right now. That's what my dad was looking, and me the second time around. On my trucks the "telltale" sign was always bubbles still coming out. I'm giving the lever a few good pumps to max pressure, opening the bleeder valve, clean new fluid without bubbles comes out, I close the bleeder valve, then release the lever and start again. Is there something else I'm missing? If there is please let me know. Certainly not my first brake fluid change, but it is on this bike, so if I'm missing something subtle please say so. I don't own a bleeder vacuum, so I can't fall back on that unfortunately.

After work tomorrow I'm going to try a scotch pad or fine sandpaper just in case they've got some glazing on them. If that doesn't help I'll throw the pads back in and see if that makes it any better I guess.

Thanks for the suggestions guys!
 

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One tip is to cable tie the brake lever tightly to the throttle grip and leave it over night, sometimes the air could be caught high in the brake line and this will solve that issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One tip is to cable tie the brake lever tightly to the throttle grip and leave it over night, sometimes the air could be caught high in the brake line and this will solve that issue.

That's a good idea, let physics take over and do its thing. Thanks!
 

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Buy a brake line bleeder that hooks to a compressor. The R3 gets bubbles trapped in there easy. You can try the zip tie, or use a velcro strap but that wont get a good sized bubble out of a trapped spot.

I started using the vacuum and its night and day difference.
 

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Buy a brake line bleeder that hooks to a compressor. The R3 gets bubbles trapped in there easy. You can try the zip tie, or use a velcro strap but that wont get a good sized bubble out of a trapped spot.

I started using the vacuum and its night and day difference.

I fought with my brakes for 3 hours before I took it to my buddy who owns a shop. Took him 30 seconds to bleed my brakes flawlessly using an air compressor bleeder.




Aside form bleeding techniques. OP your pads are shot. If you would have cleaned them with brake cleaner the same day, you would have gotten almost all of the oils out but by now it's soaked deep in there. Buy new pads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Did you solve this problem yet @giff74 ?
Yep, I swapped my old pads back in and it was great. Lever feel is incredible with the steel braided line! I must've oiled the new pads to death.

Thanks for the feedback guys!

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
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