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Make Your Front LED Turn Indicators Into Running Lights Too!

25740 Views 46 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  xorbe, 
Capn Kirk
If you have LED’s that use only two wires as most do, they are designed for only two states (On and Off). If you want your front LED indicators to operate as running lights as well, keep reading.

With a little modification during the install, your front turn signals will work as OEM with running lights and flash in sync (front/rear/dash) as they should.

For all schematics and instructions in this thread, the wire colors shown are for the 2015 Yamaha R3 and the following items:

R&G Racing Aero LED Indicators (Front and Rear)
TST Industries Yamaha Signal Plug Converters 3 to 3 (2 sets of 2 if installed front and rear)
TST Industries Gen 2 Flasher Relay Installed during conversion

This modification to make the front indicators work as running lights as I have can be made with any LED indicator, the only difference being that the wire colors of your LED’s could be different than my example (yellow/black). You just need to identify which wire is +12V and which is Ground and substitute those colors. You can also easily substitute the resistor with a different value (higher value will dim the LED brightness for the running light, lower value will brighten the LED as a running light). Keep in mind, if you make your running light too bright, then the flashes become less noticeable. I found the 510 OHM resistor worked best for my install, your LED’s may vary. I tried mine outside in normal daylight. Resistors are cheap. If you choose to order from Digikey using my links below, go ahead and purchase a few of each value so you can experiment with different values to adjust the running light brightness to your liking before you begin.

Instructions for modifying the TST harness into running light capabilities are shown below.

For this install, if you have not already, please install a new flasher relay from TST Industries. I know this works well and LED load resistors are not required if you do. The TST relay solves all the issues with flash fast rates due to the low current draw of LED indicators. Relay install instructions.

Links for my shopping list:

Relay (1 Required)
Harness (2 sets of 2 Required)
Resistor 510 OHM (2 required)
Diode (4 required)
R&G R&G Racing Aero LED

Optional value resistors if you want to experiment with different values to adjust the running light brightness to your liking. They are super cheap, so pick up a few different values to try!

Resistor 300 OHM
Resistor 390 OHM
Resistor 620 OHM
Resistor 750 OHM

OEM Wiring color code for 2015 Yamaha R3 Turn Signals:

Left Rear: Gray 3 pin connector (only 2 pins used)
Chocolate = Switched +12V (from flasher relay)
Black = Ground

Right Rear: Black 3 pin connector (only 2 pins used)
Dark Green= Switched +12V (from flasher relay)
Black = Ground

Left Front: Gray 3 pin connector
Chocolate = Switched +12V (from flasher relay)
Blue = +12V (Switched from ignition - “running lights”)
Black = Ground

Right Front: Black 3 pin connector
Dark Green = Switched +12V (from flasher relay)
Blue = +12V (Switched from ignition - “running lights”)
Black = Ground

TST Yamaha Signal Plug Converters 3 to 3 Color Code:
Red = Ground
Brown = Switched +12V (from flasher relay)
Blue = Blue = +12V (Switched from ignition - “running lights”) Not used for rear signals.

R&G Racing Aero LED Indicators Color Code:
Yellow = +12V
Black = Ground




















Good luck with your install.
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B
You sir, are a steely eyed missile man! Now can you come up with a way to install 4 way hazard lights too? :D
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rito
You, Capn Kirk....are the MAN. Thank you for taking the time to post in great detail. Cheers to you and Happy Easter.

Randy


BluebirdR3 said:
You sir, are a steely eyed missile man! Now can you come up with a way to install 4 way hazard lights too? :D
Click to expand...
ps Now hurry up and get started on this. >:D
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R3Modifier
thats a real good diagram you did easy to understand. thanks a million:D
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B
I just was looking at the R&G LED's. Did you install these just in the back and the TST flushmounts in the front? Or did you install R&G LED's front and back? Some pics would be great so we can see how these work too. Thanks man, you are the best!
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Capn Kirk
BluebirdR3 said:
I just was looking at the R&G LED's. Did you install these just in the back and the TST flushmounts in the front? Or did you install R&G LED's front and back? Some pics would be great so we can see how these work too. Thanks man, you are the best!
Click to expand...
I have the black set installed in the rear. I have the gray set ready to install in the front. I really like the extra LED on the ends to light up from the sides. I am waiting on the blue powder coated mounting plates (Ebay 280238516678)...





I did run all four using the wiring from above and they all work great! I would be happy to post photos of the R&G's installed as well as a video showing this entire setup in operation after I get the mounting plates from Australia.
I figured that you may want to get a jump on the modifications! :)
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B
I stumbled onto this setup as well - which I'm guessing is essentially what Capn Kirk here has made

http://www.motostarz.ca/custom-led-blinker-genie-pair.html
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Capn Kirk
BluebirdR3 said:
I stumbled onto this setup as well - which I'm guessing is essentially what Capn Kirk here has made

http://www.motostarz.ca/custom-led-blinker-genie-pair.html
Click to expand...
Good find! I saw this option as well when looking for a solution. I went another direction and here's why....

Reading the information on the blinker genie, the running lights stay on at full brightness. During the "blink", the light goes off. This tells me they are using a relay to kill power when energized. I thought about trying the blinker genie as well but went another route to keep everything sync'd and simplified.

The blinker genie will cause the lights to blink opposite the pulse. The front and rears would be out of sync if not installed on all four. It would also require tapping into a constant +12V in the rear to energize the light when power is cut. It would also always be out of sync from the dash indicator however this would not hurt anything.

I'm cool with having my running lights at a lower brightness as OEM because I have the headlights as well up front to be seen. The main benefit of the blinker genie over my solution is running the lights will remain at full brightness at all times until signaled.

One last note, if thinking about going the genie route, you need to ensure that the lights you choose are designed to run at 100% duty cycle, meaning on all the time. I sent an email to R&G asking if the LED's I purchased were tested and rated for 100% duty cycle. They replied "No I am afraid these are not designed for constant use they are only designed for use as turn signals I am afraid..." So I took my R&G's to work and hooked them up to a 12V power supply. I ran them with the 510 OHM resistor in the circuit at the lower brightness for an hour and they only warmed 2 degrees above room temp. I then ran them for an hour at full brightness. They warmed up the aluminum shell 10 degrees over room temp. I decided to limit the current through the LED's for constant on which will give them a lower operating temp and longer life as well. I was a little concerned with premature failure due to heat buildup.

Some high power LED's can get quite hot. If that heat is not dissipated properly with heat sinks or fans, they can damage the LED's and burn them out.
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B
Interesting. I wonder what would happen with the Euro Yamaha Blinker Plus Led setup? The description says they include resistors and are made to have running lights on with turnsignals. Pricey, but I'm seriously thinking about going this route. If not, I could go with the Yamaha OEM LED setup front and rear.
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Capn Kirk
BluebirdR3 said:
Interesting. I wonder what would happen with the Euro Yamaha Blinker Plus Led setup? The description says they include resistors and are made to have running lights on with turnsignals. Pricey, but I'm seriously thinking about going this route. If not, I could go with the Yamaha OEM LED setup front and rear.
Click to expand...
Too many unknowns for me to offer an informed opinion. You should have not problems either way.

Good luck and feel free to post up here as to what you install! I am still waiting on my blue mounting plates from Australia......
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X
Hey I was wondering if I can use 450 OHM Resistors to do this install since I have some laying around or does it have to be one of the resistor values that you have linked above?
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Capn Kirk
xx0505xx said:
Hey I was wondering if I can use 450 OHM Resistors to do this install since I have some laying around or does it have to be one of the resistor values that you have linked above?
Click to expand...
You can use any value. The 450 OHM will make your running light brighter than a higher value. Actually if you are using the R&G, the 450 OHM should work nicely, just a tad brighter than mine while in running light mode.

If you go too high, the running light could potentially get so dim it wont be visible. If you go too low, your running light could be almost or the same brightness.

You will not hurt anything by trying different values. Think of the resistors as LED "dimmers".

I suggest trying your resistor in series with your led before installing to verify the brightness suits your liking.

Good luck!

Kirk
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Capn Kirk
Blue Front Plates Arrived!

The blue front indicator plates I ordered from Australia arrived today! It took them 2 days to send shipping notification and 16 more days to arrive. Quality is nice and worth the wait to get the blue instead of plain black. They are powder coated aluminum. The inner plates came bare (2 blue/2 bare).

Video below showing the running lights working with my modification to the TST harness. They are brighter than they appear, the sunlight in the background messed with my camera.

https://youtu.be/JqoxMZ8Dtok












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rito
Awsome pictures Capn. Couldn't see the running light, only the flashing one. Is that because of the sun light?


Randy
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Capn Kirk
rito said:
Awsome pictures Capn. Couldn't see the running light, only the flashing one. Is that because of the sun light?


Randy
Click to expand...
Yep, exactly. Look at the reflection in the blue part of the front fairing. You can see the running light between the blinks.
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rito
Capn Kirk said:
Yep, exactly. Look at the reflection in the blue part of the front fairing. You can see the running light between the blinks.
Click to expand...
I can see the dimmed light between blinks on the left flasher. But as you pan around the front of the bike I cannot see the running light on of the right fixture.
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X
yea same here. I can't see the DRL function of the front signals. I can only see them blinking as regular turn signals.
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Capn Kirk
xx0505xx said:
yea same here. I can't see the DRL function of the front signals. I can only see them blinking as regular turn signals.
Click to expand...
This should clear up the visibility of the video!

https://youtu.be/4yBAA69mwsU


BluebirdR3 said:
You sir, are a steely eyed missile man! Now can you come up with a way to install 4 way hazard lights too? :D
Click to expand...
I also added 4-Way Flashers while I was out in the garage! See my thread below.

http://www.r3-forums.com/forum/713-...add-4-way-flashers-r3-w-led-s.html#post329698
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B
I love it! I just need my LED lights to show up now
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Flip23
Awesome diagrams and explanations. Could you push me in the right direction below?

I purchased the TST flush mount LED signals with their Relay. I also purchased a LED turn signals from the local store to replace the rear.

Questions:

1. The TST flush mount LEDs work well and are very bright, however they blink the opposite of the rear lights.

2. I noticed that when I installed the LED lights in the rear of the bike, the TST signal lights were now DIM. When the stock incandescence were installed they were very bright.

Would creating these harnesses resolve both issues?

Would I just need to apply them to the rear signals?

Thanks again in advance for your help!
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