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Hey all,

I'm really interested in making my riding position much more aggressive, to the kin of it's big brother's - the R6 and R1. What would be the best, most cost effective way to do this? My understanding is I should invest in adjustable rear sets and clip ons. For those of you who track your bike, what have parts have you invested in?

Ideally, I'd like this to be as cost effective as possible (within $200-$300). Anything more than that I become hesitant to put that kind of money into the bike because I do plan on getting a super sport in a year or so.
 

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Hey all,

I'm really interested in making my riding position much more aggressive, to the kin of it's big brother's - the R6 and R1. What would be the best, most cost effective way to do this? My understanding is I should invest in adjustable rear sets and clip ons. For those of you who track your bike, what have parts have you invested in?

Ideally, I'd like this to be as cost effective as possible (within $200-$300). Anything more than that I become hesitant to put that kind of money into the bike because I do plan on getting a super sport in a year or so.
Rear sets and clip ons.

If you don't have enough money, then either rear sets and flip your current bars. Use the search function to find that thread.

You could also do clip ons and buy Jesse's foot peg risers. They use your stock pegs and raise them up.

I've tracked the bike with stock pegs and no problems with clearances.

Investments for the track for my bike were ( though they are as useful on the street as well):
R6 caliper mod
Brembo rcs15 master cylinder
SS brake line
Vortex clip ons
S20 tires
Trex case covers
R6 throttle tube

Is this a track only bike? Riding in race position in the street is tiresome. I don't mind an aggressive position like on my old zx6r, but the R3s is very comfy and I do t mind it at all. Once you start tracking the bike you will probably forget about upgrading to a supersport for a while. Parts can always be taken off and sold separately.
 

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I want wider clip ons. What clip ons are similar in width to a supersport? It feels awkward to hang off and counter steer. The clip ons feel narrow.
 

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I want wider clip ons. What clip ons are similar in width to a supersport? It feels awkward to hang off and counter steer. The clip ons feel narrow.
If you buy brand new clip ons, they are usually a bit longer than needed and most people end up cutting them to size, or just leaving the excess and sliding the actual bar inboard a bit.

I bought my vortex clip ons used, but they were not cut, or at least I dont think they were, as I had to trim a few inches off myself. I like a narrow profile bike. My bars usually extend outward up to where the tips of the mirrors would be on a street bike. Lane splitting and stuff. On the track, wider gives you a bit more leverage.

On the R3, the height of the bars really makes it awkward for me, and probably most people with my height and arm length, to hang off. Lowering the bars helps that a bit.
 

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Hey all,

I'm really interested in making my riding position much more aggressive, to the kin of it's big brother's - the R6 and R1. What would be the best, most cost effective way to do this? My understanding is I should invest in adjustable rear sets and clip ons. For those of you who track your bike, what have parts have you invested in?

Ideally, I'd like this to be as cost effective as possible (within $200-$300). Anything more than that I become hesitant to put that kind of money into the bike because I do plan on getting a super sport in a year or so.

Clip-ons will move bars forward and down, rearsets will move footpegs back and up. If you want to do these mods on the cheap, get clip-ons and rearset relocation plates (total less than $300). Check the clip-on thread and parts and accessories thread for info on options.
 

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The street bike heading down to that track one day I hope.

Full Exhaust Yoshi R77
PCV with block off plate.
R6 throttle tube
Evo S20's in stock size lighter then the Michelins.
Vortex clip ons
rear seat cowl
SS brake lines
CRG levers RC2

things needed suspension upgrades:
rear shock
front forks
by me changing the SS front break line from OEM. I'm now able to adjust my Vortex more forward if I would like too in the future.
 

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The street bike heading down to that track one day I hope.

Full Exhaust Yoshi R77
PCV with block off plate.
R6 throttle tube
Evo S20's in stock size lighter then the Michelins.
Vortex clip ons
rear seat cowl
SS brake lines
CRG levers RC2
I am not suggesting any more money spent on your bike, its already looking good as it is, but if you have to spend money on it other than a track day, I suggest case savers, as a "just in case" for the track day. Well, normal street use too. I wish mine were on before my track lowside, but the scratch was minimal.
 

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Ya I'm pretty much done on the bike after I install the levers and break lines this week. I might get the brackets from Jesse to change the OEM rear sets location. I did have my foot hit once (lazy foot dangle on the turn not so good) but now I just tuck my feet back more and not really have a problem with that wake up call. What case saver did you go with ?
 

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Ya I'm pretty much done on the bike after I install the levers and break lines this week. I might get the brackets from Jesse to change the OEM rear sets location. I did have my foot hit once (lazy foot dangle on the turn not so good) but now I just tuck my feet back more and not really have a problem with that wake up call. What case saver did you go with ?
TRex case savers. I am trying to find a link. I found them on Ebay but am not finding any right now. CapitalView and I discussed these, along with some other options in a different thread, which I cannot find right now.
 

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Can drop your stock bars under the triple clamp too. I had an interference with my brake line, but all that required was moving to banjo bolt over. If you do this take care, you only want to back the torque off enough so you can reposition the banjo bolt with some padded grips, keeping pressure on the brake lever will help to keep any air getting in. If any oil leaks then bleed the lines just in case! Very simple to do though and makes a huge difference, I moved my bars like this and bought some dearest brackets for £20. Love the position now.
 

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As they mentioned, there are 3 things that make the bike not feel like a true supersport. The high bars that are close to the rider, and the super low foot pegs and seat. I just posted 2 articles that should help with the clipons and rearsets:

What are the best clipons for the Yamaha R3?
and
What are the best rearsets for the Yamaha R3?

A lot of people are buying my rearset risers and the Vortex clipons together. These two things really help with the riding position. As for the seat, since you aren't using race bodywork, I recommend taking your stock seat to an auto upholstery place and have them add 1.5-2" of height to it, then re-wrap it with vinyl.

Cheers,
Jesse

Follow my build and racing at YamahaR3Racing.com
The most complete resource for information and race parts for the Yamaha R3.

 

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Well the seat you suggest sounds more comfortable what density foam are we too use. Something firmer or softer ?
 

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I was looking for more aggressive ergonomics as well. Ordered the Vortex 41mm clip ons, and the Second Generation Riser Brackets (for the stock rearsets) from yamahar3racing.com. I had these parts installed yesterday, and riding the bike home, I felt like I was on a SS - such a drastic change. Cornering feels much better, thanks to the increased leverage on the bike (lower and wider clip ons). Now all that's left is to visit a local auto upholsterer and have them add ~2" to the stock seat. I'll throw up some pics today or tomorrow.
 

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Took the new gear for a test ride through some twisties. Exquisite control/leverage over the bike in corners. However, I did notice the bike doesn't turn in as quickly as before. Perhaps this is due to the lowered front end (had to slide forks up so clip ons sit flush with top of fork tubes). Maybe it's in my head, further testing is needed. I am having some clearance issues, see the pic where the brake line hits the gauge cluster at full lock to the left. In fact, I can't lock the bars because of it. I can live with it for now, maybe I'll mess with it in the future to get it just right.
 

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It's a fine line to get the clipons in a spot where they clear the fairings and the dash, but it's possible. You can gain a little more clearance to the dash by barely loosening the banjo bolt and rotating it out toward the outside of the bike a little. There's a pic on the page on installing the Vortex clipons about this:
http://www.yamahar3racing.com/2016/03/install-aftermarket-clipons-yamaha-r3/

Let me know your thoughts on the turning after you get to ride it a little more. It should actually turn in a little easier with the front slightly lower, but I'd be surprised if it's noticeable on the street, it's a pretty small change.

Cheers


Took the new gear for a test ride through some twisties. Exquisite control/leverage over the bike in corners. However, I did notice the bike doesn't turn in as quickly as before. Perhaps this is due to the lowered front end (had to slide forks up so clip ons sit flush with top of fork tubes). Maybe it's in my head, further testing is needed. I am having some clearance issues, see the pic where the banjo bolt hits the gauge cluster at full lock to the left. In fact, I can't lock the bars because of it. I can live with it for now, maybe I'll mess with it in the future to get it just right.
 

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I put 1" nylon spacers under the seat where the stock rubber pads go...
The spacers hole match the rubber pads grommet fitting perfectly...
Sure I have a light gap at the rear of the seat, but it feel more like a sport bike position now... :)
 

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Took the new gear for a test ride through some twisties. Exquisite control/leverage over the bike in corners. However, I did notice the bike doesn't turn in as quickly as before. Perhaps this is due to the lowered front end (had to slide forks up so clip ons sit flush with top of fork tubes). Maybe it's in my head, further testing is needed. I am having some clearance issues, see the pic where the brake line hits the gauge cluster at full lock to the left. In fact, I can't lock the bars because of it. I can live with it for now, maybe I'll mess with it in the future to get it just right.
It's not turning in as quick as before as in? With the fork tubes slid up into the top triple, you lower the front end in effect. The bike should turn in easier. Maybe your bars are narrower and you don't have as much leverage as before? In that case, it's not really because the bike is turning in much slower, but t just wants more feedback since it needs more leverage to feel the same as when the bars were wider and needed less leverage.
 
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