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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi,

Any help would be appreciated as I just bought this bike and I no nothing about clutches. I am currently stuck in a carpark thinking of a way to leg this bike back to my place.

Symptoms:

-bike rolls in any gear (1,N,2 etc). I know it should roll a bit in first and second but it eventually comes to a stop. My MT03 in any gear can roll forever. It doesn't stop.

-When I go down into 1st and try to let the clutch out with a bit of throttle the bike doesn't move an inch. I can't get to friction point. The bike just revs.

My Hypothesis:

-The clutch is stuck in the engaged position.


What are my options? Is the clutch the issue and if so would I need to get a clutch kit and replace it to get it to move again? If so which clutch kit do you reccomened? If it's not the clutch what else should I look at? I think the cable is fine but idk.

Thanks, I'm fu**ing stressed af. I am now stuck at the bottom of a carpark with no way to ride the bike back home.
 

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That sounds odd. If the bike was running and riding properly when you parked it.. nothing should have changed. Was the bike possibly knocked over while you were away? If so, the shifting linkage or clutch lever could have been damaged.
If the bike's rolling freely...it's not in gear... even if it says so on the dash read-out.
Stupid question here... Is the chain attached properly? Yes?.. Oh, well easy fix is gone.
Get an assistant to help.. a second pair of hands and eyes often works wonders.
While you're working the clutch lever in and out... Check the clutch cable's movement at the linkage where it actuates the lever at the engine Check for any binding and full engagement. Also check the left foot's gear shifter linkage to be sure it's working smoothly and not hitting something unexpected. Lastly, remove the cover to get clear access to and check the front drive gear where the chain attaches. Try to roll the bike "in gear" to see if the front drive gear's turning.. If so, the gear's free-wheeling inside and something's definitely amiss internally... Make arrangements to tow or trailer the bike to a place to be diagnosed and repaired. Randomly changing out parts without knowing what the problem is.. gets real expensive real quick. And seldom cures the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That sounds odd. If the bike was running and riding properly when you parked it.. nothing should have changed. Was the bike possibly knocked over while you were away? If so, the shifting linkage or clutch lever could have been damaged.
If the bike's rolling freely...it's not in gear... even if it says so on the dash read-out.
Stupid question here... Is the chain attached properly? Yes?.. Oh, well easy fix is gone.
Get an assistant to help.. a second pair of hands and eyes often works wonders.
While you're working the clutch lever in and out... Check the clutch cable's movement at the linkage where it actuates the lever at the engine Check for any binding and full engagement. Also check the left foot's gear shifter linkage to be sure it's working smoothly and not hitting something unexpected. Lastly, remove the cover to get clear access to and check the front drive gear where the chain attaches. Try to roll the bike "in gear" to see if the front drive gear's turning.. If so, the gear's free-wheeling inside and something's definitely amiss internally... Make arrangements to tow or trailer the bike to a place to be diagnosed and repaired. Randomly changing out parts without knowing what the problem is.. gets real expensive real quick. And seldom cures the problem.
Ok, so the issue after following your advice is that the gear is free wheeling. I managed to get the bike back to my place, I ran to Bunnings rented out one of the hire vans, found scrap wood in the car park and then mounted the bike drove home and dropped it off.

Do you think I should take the clutch apart and attempt to put a new clutch kit in? Or just send it to a repair shop and let them do the troubleshooting and work.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That sounds odd. If the bike was running and riding properly when you parked it.. nothing should have changed. Was the bike possibly knocked over while you were away? If so, the shifting linkage or clutch lever could have been damaged.
If the bike's rolling freely...it's not in gear... even if it says so on the dash read-out.
Stupid question here... Is the chain attached properly? Yes?.. Oh, well easy fix is gone.
Get an assistant to help.. a second pair of hands and eyes often works wonders.
While you're working the clutch lever in and out... Check the clutch cable's movement at the linkage where it actuates the lever at the engine Check for any binding and full engagement. Also check the left foot's gear shifter linkage to be sure it's working smoothly and not hitting something unexpected. Lastly, remove the cover to get clear access to and check the front drive gear where the chain attaches. Try to roll the bike "in gear" to see if the front drive gear's turning.. If so, the gear's free-wheeling inside and something's definitely amiss internally... Make arrangements to tow or trailer the bike to a place to be diagnosed and repaired. Randomly changing out parts without knowing what the problem is.. gets real expensive real quick. And seldom cures the problem.

Could the clutch plates be stuck together?
 

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If you are not mechanically inclined, get a repair shop to sort it out.

The clutch cover is also the water pump cover. Removal first requires draining the cooling system. Getting the clutch cover back in place is not the easiest chore.

What does the clutch lever feel like? Does it feel normal, or has something changed?

(P.S. Clutch plates sticking together will make the clutch always engage, not always disengage ... the opposite problem of what you describe. I would expect that if the clutch release lever has jammed in the disengaged position, the clutch level will feel completely floppy and loose, and the cable will be quite obviously loose and floppy where it attaches to the lever on the clutch cover at the engine end)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you are not mechanically inclined, get a repair shop to sort it out.

The clutch cover is also the water pump cover. Removal first requires draining the cooling system. Getting the clutch cover back in place is not the easiest chore.

What does the clutch lever feel like? Does it feel normal, or has something changed?

(P.S. Clutch plates sticking together will make the clutch always engage, not always disengage ... the opposite problem of what you describe. I would expect that if the clutch release lever has jammed in the disengaged position, the clutch level will feel completely floppy and loose, and the cable will be quite obviously loose and floppy where it attaches to the lever on the clutch cover at the engine end)
I believe the clutch is always engaged. That's why I'm able to roll the bike back in gear without it mechanically stopping. Also when I can start the bike in 1st without touching the clutch lever. That's why I think the clutch is engaged. It's as if the clutch lever was completely pressed in. That's why I thought clutch plates.

Clutch feels fairly normal, but bite point isn't clear. Just feels very linear. Cable tention wasn't adjusted so I don't think it's that.

I am not mechanically inclined, so if what you say is true I guess I will have to get a repair shop take a look. I know is impossible to give an accurate estimate of price, but what do you think the price ceiling and floor is? What's the absolute max cost for the most reasonable worst case scenario?

Thanks for your detailed response. I am stressing the **** out and this community is very very helpful. You guys responded so quickly with such detail. Thanks alot
 

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Any possibility it's still under warranty? Or an outstanding Yamaha Safety Recall?
I wouldn't even guess a cost.. But again, if it was working when you parked it, it should work when you return.. unless something happened you're unaware of. Hopefully there's a simple adjustment of something binding you can't see. You can always ask the Service manager/technician to diagnose before repair. They should be able to give a fairly accurate fee for diagnosing only.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Any possibility it's still under warranty? Or an outstanding Yamaha Safety Recall?
I wouldn't even guess a cost.. But again, if it was working when you parked it, it should work when you return.. unless something happened you're unaware of. Hopefully there's a simple adjustment of something binding you can't see. You can always ask the Service manager/technician to diagnose before repair. They should be able to give a fairly accurate fee for diagnosing only.
Let me clarify, it wasn't like I left the bike parked and I came back and had this issue. I was riding around the carpark working on my "starts" so I was feathering the friction zone when I was starting. I did that for like 30 min or so of starting the bike from a stop and getting faster each time. Then I left the bike for maybe 5 min, came back to it and I had this issue.

Unfortunately it isn't under warranty or recall. What's worse is idk if I can get it repaired cause in NSW, Australia we are in lockdown so I doubt the repair shop would be open.

I'm thinking I might just buy the clutch plate pack, and use the lockdown to diagnose and fix the issue. If I was to buy the clutch kit any suggestions? Is there a clutch mod people usually do and I can just take advantage of the bad situation and install the "better" clutch now or should I just go OEM.

Thanks
 

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You are backwards with your "engaged" and "disengaged".

"Engaged" = clutch is capable of transmitting engine torque to the rest of the drivetrain (and the drive wheel, if it isn't in neutral) = you are not pulling the clutch lever. Unless the transmission is in neutral, the engine cannot run without the rear wheel turning.

"Disengaged" = clutch is not capable of transmitting engine torque to the rest of the drivetrain (no matter what gear is selected) = the normal situation of you pulling the clutch lever to the handlebar. This is the situation that you have, when you shouldn't.

Take note of the little lever on top of the clutch cover (right side of engine) with the cable connected to it. What happens to that lever (and the cable) when you operate the hand clutch lever? It should move in unison with you operating the hand clutch lever. Does it? If you are NOT pulling the hand clutch lever, the cable should be just a little bit slack. Is it? If you are holding the hand clutch lever to the handlebar, the cable should have some tension on it. Does it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You are backwards with your "engaged" and "disengaged".

"Engaged" = clutch is capable of transmitting engine torque to the rest of the drivetrain (and the drive wheel, if it isn't in neutral) = you are not pulling the clutch lever. Unless the transmission is in neutral, the engine cannot run without the rear wheel turning.

"Disengaged" = clutch is not capable of transmitting engine torque to the rest of the drivetrain (no matter what gear is selected) = the normal situation of you pulling the clutch lever to the handlebar. This is the situation that you have, when you shouldn't.

Take note of the little lever on top of the clutch cover (right side of engine) with the cable connected to it. What happens to that lever (and the cable) when you operate the hand clutch lever? It should move in unison with you operating the hand clutch lever. Does it? If you are NOT pulling the hand clutch lever, the cable should be just a little bit slack. Is it? If you are holding the hand clutch lever to the handlebar, the cable should have some tension on it. Does it?
Thank you for the reply, I understand what you are saying. My situation is I have a disengaged clutch. As for the lever cable, when I pull in the clutch lever the cable moves proportionally to the amount I pull it. The cable does haven tension when I pull it. I think the cable has enough slack, just looking at it it appears to be tight but with a bit of slack. Tomorrow morning I will loosen the slack and let you know how it goes. I really hope that's the issue.

If it isn't the solution do you think a clutch kit would be my next step? If so which would you recommend is there some better clutch kit mod people do to the R3 and I can just take advantage of the bad situation and get that done or should I stick with the OEM replacement kit?

Thanks
 

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Make sure the cable at that lever goes a little bit slack when you let go of the clutch lever. If it doesn't, adjust it at the nearby bracket and locknut.

Worn clutch plates wear thinner which is in the direction of the cable going tight and that acts in the direction of the clutch slipping ... but normally, this isn't something that happens overnight, unless you've done something extremely abusive to the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Make sure the cable at that lever goes a little bit slack when you let go of the clutch lever. If it doesn't, adjust it at the nearby bracket and locknut.

Worn clutch plates wear thinner which is in the direction of the cable going tight and that acts in the direction of the clutch slipping ... but normally, this isn't something that happens overnight, unless you've done something extremely abusive to the clutch.
It's not the clutch cable, I loosened it to get a fair amount of slack and it still won't engage. I found a repair shop that can look at it in a few days. I am just gonna give it to them and see how it goes. I suspect my clutch might have been on its last legs but idk.

Thanks for your help I'll update here when it's diagnosed/fixed
 

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Hi,

Any help would be appreciated as I just bought this bike and I no nothing about clutches. I am currently stuck in a carpark thinking of a way to leg this bike back to my place.

Symptoms:

-bike rolls in any gear (1,N,2 etc). I know it should roll a bit in first and second but it eventually comes to a stop. My MT03 in any gear can roll forever. It doesn't stop.

-When I go down into 1st and try to let the clutch out with a bit of throttle the bike doesn't move an inch. I can't get to friction point. The bike just revs.

My Hypothesis:

-The clutch is stuck in the engaged position.


What are my options? Is the clutch the issue and if so would I need to get a clutch kit and replace it to get it to move again? If so which clutch kit do you reccomened? If it's not the clutch what else should I look at? I think the cable is fine but idk.

Thanks, I'm fu**ing stressed af. I am now stuck at the bottom of a carpark with no way to ride the bike back home.
Check basket cover
 
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