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hello,

I just got my R3 and i'm trying really hard to break it in right... my problem is that I need to take a freeway for about 15 minutes twice a day and it's been really hard to go with the flow of traffic when I need to stay under 7k (for prolonged periods) which puts me at about 60-65mph, getting passed left and right by vehicles is not fun on a bike

i've been following this post: www (dot) r3-forums (dot) com/forum/713-yamaha-r3-how-diy/3978-r3-break-procedure (dot) html
which references this: www (dot) mototuneusa (dot) com/break_in_secrets (dot) htm

so I've done a little bit of going thru the gears putting some pressure on it and engine breaking, never redline yet and trying so hard to keep it under 7k for prolonged periods, but what about keeping it at exactly 7-7.5k for 15 minutes?

is my freeway ride twice a day going to cause serious damage to my break in procedure? while i'm on the freeway trying to stay under 7k, i occasionally pin it to 8.5kish then engine break back down to 7k just to keep it inconsistent, is this good or should i stop that?

thank you anyone who can offer advice to me breaking in a bike for the first time
 

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Just do it. As long as it isn't hours of highway it's fine.

Also, don't be afraid to rev the bike. The manual(if Im not mistaken) says to avoid long durations above 7k,8.5k etc. This means you can occasionally get up there near redline. It wont hurt it.

For what it's worth, plenty of guys have broken in there bikes on the track. I have beat the piss out of mine from day 1 on the street and it is still going strong after 16k miles.
 

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I bought my R3 in another state. I had to ride it for 3 hours on the highway as soon as it left the dealer.
I varied the speed and rpm's the whole way. I tried to keep it around 7k rpm for most of the trip.
It did great. No issues. So don't worry about it. Just ride it and have fun. It will be fine.
 

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250 miles on mine so far.. I think I saw the shift light 2 or 3 times so far and I use all the gears frequently.. Again, just try and not sustain same RPMs for long periods.. I'd say 15mins is just fine. Do not believe I have even redlined it yet though.. I do not remember what RPM the shift light comes on.. LOL.
 

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Probably the worst thing you can do to a new motor is to lug the engine. Keep your rpms up and no harm in hitting 11k a few times a day. Just don´t cruise at high rpms,
 

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As everyone else mentioned the best thing to do is keep varying RPM's... just don't let it sit at ANY rev for an extended period of time while riding and breaking in. I rode my R3 like I stole it for break-in (I always believe in hard break in) and have no problems.

Best ways to break in a new motor to properly seat the rings, high load I.E. accelerating up a hill.
 

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My buddy breaks in new motors by holding them at 2000rpm for 20 minutes. Then shuts it off and lets it cool completely. Then he takes it out and brake torques it while driving a bit to put a load on the motor and then does some compression braking. Both of those are to get cylinder pressures up and some good vacuum to seat the rings.

Now breaking in a motorcycle engine where your clutch and transmission are in the same oil as the motor, I dont know enough about that so I am taking it a bit easy on mine, not to say I didnt get on it a bit today, but I think 8k RPM was the most it saw and I did some good engine braking as well.
 

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omega - I disagree with pretty much everything you just said. :|
Any reason why? I've seen break ins where they rev the crap out of the engines. There are videos of F1 engines doing this. There are videos of bike engines being revved high from the factory. I read the article here http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm and he touched on the same thing, don't stay at the same rpm, high revs are ok, and he at the least had pics to back up his claims.

Are you saying just don't run high revs? What are you disagreeing with? He says vary the rpm and you said the same but you disagree? Properly seating the rings is something you do want to happen but you disagree?
 

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I don't agree with the "hard break-in" theory. I also don't agree with putting a hard load on the engine, before it is broken-in.
I also don't agree with "riding it like you stole it". I DO agree that it is good to vary the rpm's. It is okay to rev it higher for
short intervals, providing there is little to no load on the engine, and the engine is fully warmed-up.
There are many different theories, opinions, and ideas about how to break-in a new engine. There is both good, and bad
information out there. People read something on the internet, and believe they are experts on the subject.
People will do whatever they want to do. Even if it is wrong. Sometimes it works out okay.
Ladders and snakes. Ladders give.... snakes take.
 

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I don't agree with the "hard break-in" theory. I also don't agree with putting a hard load on the engine, before it is broken-in.
I also don't agree with "riding it like you stole it". I DO agree that it is good to vary the rpm's. It is okay to rev it higher for
short intervals, providing there is little to no load on the engine, and the engine is fully warmed-up.
There are many different theories, opinions, and ideas about how to break-in a new engine. There is both good, and bad
information out there. People read something on the internet, and believe they are experts on the subject.
People will do whatever they want to do. Even if it is wrong. Sometimes it works out okay.
Ladders and snakes. Ladders give.... snakes take.
Today's motors are not like motors from the 80's, they have tighter tolerances and you're literally only polishing the surfaces smooth during break in. The only thing you're "breaking in" in the combustion cylinder is the fact you're mating the piston rings to the cylinder walls. Cross hatching only exists so long, this is what is helping you mate your piston rings to the combustion chamber. It's also the reason you should be ENGINE BRAKING during break-in -- also helps with combustion pressure - high combustion pressure - better ring seat (same reason for suggesting high load, more combustion pressure).

Why is babying piston rings a bad thing? What causes piston rings to seal? Combustion pressure actually is what provides the outward force to seal your piston rings to the walls, gas actually gets behind the ring and exerts some force outwards. Your piston rings seat or not seat within the first 50-100 (MAX) miles it's the most critical period of your motor. The better the seat the better your compression will be over a given time.

It's a very controversial topic, however I've been through this on a lot of motors, and it's never failed me even with extremely modified (output wise) factory motors :). Agree to disagree it's all cool :) I will say I'm not some random un-educated person I am an engineer with a background in physics >_< .
 

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I took the by the book low rpm approach to my break in, I would allow yourself more time for the commute take back roads. You're on a brand new bike, spend some extra time with it instead of just point a to b. I used the Kurviger app to find some great new routes from my house to work that I still take. Instead of 30 minutes it takes me an hour to get to work now but it's a great way to start my day and well worth it

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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I highly doubt anyone here who says "Ride it like you stole it", or, "Break it in hard" has ever pulled the engine apart and inspected the cylinder walls/valves/rings.. etc after 10,000 miles. Let alone a proper engineering lab inspection of 100 hard-broken in engines and posted a result.


In fact, the only place I know that has that kind of imperial data is the manufacturer.


I'll follow their advice - thanks.
 

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I highly doubt anyone here who says "Ride it like you stole it", or, "Break it in hard" has ever pulled the engine apart and inspected the cylinder walls/valves/rings.. etc after 10,000 miles. Let alone a proper engineering lab inspection of 100 hard-broken in engines and posted a result.


In fact, the only place I know that has that kind of imperial data is the manufacturer.


I'll follow their advice - thanks.
Their advice is solely based on risk avoidance... but that's cool too.
 

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I highly doubt anyone here who says "Ride it like you stole it", or, "Break it in hard" has ever pulled the engine apart and inspected the cylinder walls/valves/rings.. etc after 10,000 miles. Let alone a proper engineering lab inspection of 100 hard-broken in engines and posted a result.


In fact, the only place I know that has that kind of imperial data is the manufacturer.


I'll follow their advice - thanks.
You can use that exact same argument with people who follow the book.

If you click the link I posted though, one guy did in fact pull engines apart and inspected them after hard break ins. There are cool pics you can look at.
 

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Anytime something defies conventional wisdom everyone screams bloody murder, it's pretty funny. Galileo, Leonardo Da Vinci, Einstein - everyone thought they were all wrong too lol...
@Kojiiro I've seen his work before in my research previously, he has some good data - good linking.
@KillSwitch_Off I would love to see your manufacturer's data; oh wait, they break them in on dyno's before leaving the factory too... have you never seen Honda's assembly lines where they do full throttle pulls? lol

-- might want to skip to around 3:30 - ever wonder why Honda's are one of the most reliable?
 

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On every bike I've owned I've done a "hard break in.

1. Warm up to operating temp.
2. Lightly acellerate 1st to 3rd. At 3rd gear...bring it up to roughly 5k rpm (will vary on type of bike but most sport bikes i start at about 5k).
3. Accellerate from 5k to redline. Now don't pin it on the limiter, once redline is reached allow the engine to engine brake / decellerate back to where you began (5k for example).
4. Repeat this process several times.
5. Once completed, CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER. Very important!
6. Ride it like you stole it.

I've had dozens of bikes broken in this way and every one has had zero issues with hundreds of thousands of miles between them all. I've torn open a few to inspect and every one has looked as if it was brand new...almost zero carbon build up. Where as I have opened up bikes that have been broken in "easy".....carbon build up and a few have had issues with the rings allowing oil to get past as well. Also I realize that redline in 3rd gear will bring you up to illegal speeds, but if you have access to a dyno it's the way to go!....or if you live in Mexico.
 

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Anytime something defies conventional wisdom everyone screams bloody murder, it's pretty funny. Galileo, Leonardo Da Vinci, Einstein - everyone thought they were all wrong too lol...
@Kojiiro I've seen his work before in my research previously, he has some good data - good linking.
@KillSwitch_Off I would love to see your manufacturer's data; oh wait, they break them in on dyno's before leaving the factory too... have you never seen Honda's assembly lines where they do full throttle pulls? lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZ_p_ICueaY -- might want to skip to around 3:30 - ever wonder why Honda's are one of the most reliable?
I wanted to link that video as well, but couldn't find it. There are other videos of engines being revved up at the factory. The F1 engine break in video is pretty good. The **** pipes start glowing. But that's a different comparison since they do get the luxury of an entire engineering team and rebuilds.
 

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@dausmus gets it, the rings will never fully seat if you baby it the whole time - therefore allowing oil blowby - eww.

Yeah I love that honda video, their factory is amaze-balls (at least their dyno setup).
 
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