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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all! Took a bit of a leap of faith and bought a crashed salvage R3 from Copart. It was really cheap, although they rob you with the fees (bastards!), so I'm hoping it'll be worth it. Came with no key, so no idea how many miles it has or if the thing even runs. Doesn't have a battery and the start button is messed up so it'll be about a week until I can get it going (hopefully).

Currently I race a CBR500 and a ZX6R, and if all goes well the plan is to slowly get the R3 to where it's rideable, then at some point later this year, sell the 500 and use that money to really build the R3 into a proper race bike. The 500 is just too **** heavy...sure it has a few more ponies but it's a hog. It's even heavier than my ZX6R! Anyway...excited to learn more about the R3 and gain some knowledge from you folks. I'll be starting up a thread with my bike build, because I've already tore it down and already have a bunch of questions :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Also...10-character password for this forum and only certain symbols count as symbols?? Seems a bit extreme! lol
 

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I'm also rebuilding a Copart salvage R3. I got pretty lucky tho. Most of the damage on mine was cosmetic, and as soon as I recharged the battery and repaired the left clip-on and rearset, I got the thing to fire right up. The rest is fixing the bodywork and some other minor odds and ends, plus some track prep. Hopefully your project will come together quickly!

I highly recommend ProCaliber.com for any OEM replacement parts if you want new stuff. The prices are really good compared to other sources. Usually better than eBay. Check the classifieds on this forum often too. Used parts turn up all the time and everybody I've dealt with has been really easy to work with and very helpful. Check out the site vendors for race parts and other mods! Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm also rebuilding a Copart salvage R3. I got pretty lucky tho. Most of the damage on mine was cosmetic, and as soon as I recharged the battery and repaired the left clip-on and rearset, I got the thing to fire right up. The rest is fixing the bodywork and some other minor odds and ends, plus some track prep. Hopefully your project will come together quickly!

I highly recommend ProCaliber.com for any OEM replacement parts if you want new stuff. The prices are really good compared to other sources. Usually better than eBay. Check the classifieds on this forum often too. Used parts turn up all the time and everybody I've dealt with has been really easy to work with and very helpful. Check out the site vendors for race parts and other mods! Good luck!
I had been looking on Copart for months for an R3 ever since a friend of mine bought one for $850 (not counting fees, just bid) that had just cosmetic damage. But every time I bid on one, there was always someone from freakin Guatemala, Mexico, or China that would up the price to the point that it wasn't worth it anymore so I'd let them win. I finally won this one which I'm guessing is because most people were skeptical about the "no key" thing. What I didn't anticipate was the lack of battery, and butchered wiring job on the right-hand side switches with the busted starter button :/

I drove 1275 miles yesterday over the course of 26 hours to get it! This **** better be worth it! :D
 
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Fortunately, the parts for these bikes are not that expensive, at least not compared to something like an R1. Bodywork is cheap, and theres a big used parts market as well. Seriously, check some of this sites vendors or ProCaliber, or RonAyers before you get anything off eBay. A lot of the sellers on there are asking more than you can get brand-new OEM parts for elsewhere.

I got lucky on mine. Winning bid was $700. By the time it was loaded and off the Copart lot I think it was right at about $1000. I only had to drive about three hours tho. You are definitely dedicated to the cause!

No key and significant visible damage (even if it's just cosmetic) are good deterrents, but yeah, seems like a lot of international buyers out there. But hey, you can't win if you don't play! Glad you finally got one!

I picked up a right side clip-on assembly off a basically new bike that included the switch assembly and harness for about $50 the other day. Got the left side assembly for $35. You can also get new lock assemblies. I paid $80 for "new" ignition, tank, and seat locks. Only pain in the butt was drilling out the security bolts for the ignition lock. But the deals are out there!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Fortunately, the parts for these bikes are not that expensive, at least not compared to something like an R1. Bodywork is cheap, and theres a big used parts market as well. Seriously, check some of this sites vendors or ProCaliber, or RonAyers before you get anything off eBay. A lot of the sellers on there are asking more than you can get brand-new OEM parts for elsewhere.

I got lucky on mine. Winning bid was $700. By the time it was loaded and off the Copart lot I think it was right at about $1000. I only had to drive about three hours tho. You are definitely dedicated to the cause!

No key and significant visible damage (even if it's just cosmetic) are good deterrents, but yeah, seems like a lot of international buyers out there. But hey, you can't win if you don't play! Glad you finally got one!

I picked up a right side clip-on assembly off a basically new bike that included the switch assembly and harness for about $50 the other day. Got the left side assembly for $35. You can also get new lock assemblies. I paid $80 for "new" ignition, tank, and seat locks. Only pain in the butt was drilling out the security bolts for the ignition lock. But the deals are out there!
Yeah I just drilled out my ignition switch last night. That was a bit of a bitch to do. Someone had already started with it on the bike. I get the feeling this bike was a stolen bike and someone had attempted to "hot wire" it, gave up, and then took some parts off it before it was found. You got lucky with yours for sure! That is a steal! My problem with Copart was that they added all the hidden fees that they don't tell you about upfront unless you start digging through terms and conditions. My bid was $850 but after taxes and fees it quickly turned into $1350. I wanted to back out of it when I found that out but then they said I'll owe a $400 relisting fee! That was nowhere on the site except for buried deep inside the terms and conditions, and even then it never gave a $ value, it said "fee varies by site". So then I sucked it up and went to get it. Figured worse case is I part it out and get my money back. However if the engine runs, it'll be a good platform to start building up from. Frame, forks, swingarm, wheels, rotors, all appear to be in great shape.

For OEM parts I've used Partzilla in the past with great success. Good prices and their schematics make it easy to figure out what you need right away. For aftermarket parts, I see Spears Racing and YamahaR3Racing.com are the places to go. They pretty much have everything I would need, except for bodywork (I'd rather avoid Hotbodies this time).
 

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I had been looking on Copart for months for an R3 ever since a friend of mine bought one for $850 (not counting fees, just bid) that had just cosmetic damage. But every time I bid on one, there was always someone from freakin Guatemala, Mexico, or China that would up the price to the point that it wasn't worth it anymore so I'd let them win. I finally won this one which I'm guessing is because most people were skeptical about the "no key" thing. What I didn't anticipate was the lack of battery, and butchered wiring job on the right-hand side switches with the busted starter button :/

I drove 1275 miles yesterday over the course of 26 hours to get it! This **** better be worth it! :D
It's almost never going to be worth it. There is a reason that they call it totaled, the value to repair is more than its worth.

You'll be in major upside down when and if you finish this project, so good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
It's almost never going to be worth it. There is a reason that they call it totaled, the value to repair is more than its worth.

You'll be in major upside down when and if you finish this project, so good luck!
That's not true. Buying a stock bike in good condition would cost around $4000 give or take. I would still end up stripping everything down and replacing with aftermarket race parts. So buying a salvage one would definitely save a lot of money. Just needed a Woodcraft key eliminator harness ($52), a battery (~$100), and the right side switch housing (less than ~$20 from a friend) and at that point I'm at the same place I would be buying a clean stock used one in good condition. The only way it wouldn't be worth it is if the motor doesn't run or the frame is busted


Quick update: I was impatient and didn't want to wait for a battery so I used the one from my ZX6R. Turns out the bike has a whopping 417 miles on it! :D
 

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It's almost never going to be worth it. There is a reason that they call it totaled, the value to repair is more than its worth.

You'll be in major upside down when and if you finish this project, so good luck!
I also disagree. My salvage bike was damaged, yes, but the damage was minimal. If you were buying the bike for the track, you're going to replace a bunch of the OEM stuff anyway, like clip-ons, rearsets, fairings, and so on. Once I got the busted parts off the left side of my bike and washed the dirt off of it, it looked brand new. If I was going to put it back to 100% stock and just ride on the street, I would have put MAYBE $500 into it and it would have been good to go. $1500 or $4000? Sounds like a win to me. Yes, I've spent more than that because I'm upgrading a lot of things for the track. But that's money I would have spent anyway if I'd bought a new or clean used bike. I've bought some extras along the way and replaced a few other parts just because I like my stuff to be PERFECT (and probably would have done the same if I'd bought a non-salvage used bike), but that's just because I'm OCD, not because the bike needed them.

Totaled doesn't always mean basket case, especially with motorcycles. One scratch in the wrong place and the insurance companies will "total" them. Like I said, with the plastics off, a new clip on, and a new rear set, the bike looks new. It's only got 2000 mies on it. YES, you take a risk buying on an online insurance auction. But do your research, look at the pictures carefully (if it's close, GO INSPECT THE BIKE BEFORE THE AUCTION), and only bid what you feel is reasonable.

I'm confident I saved about $2500 off what I would have spent to have the same bike if I'd bought used. Yes, it will have a salvage title, but I'm not buying it for resale so I don't care. I bought it as a track bike and I fully expect it's gonna slide across the track and/or gravel at some point. I'm going to have a LOT less heartache about wrecking a salvage bike on the track than I would if I'd bought the thing new. But that's just me.
 

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For OEM parts I've used Partzilla in the past with great success. Good prices and their schematics make it easy to figure out what you need right away. For aftermarket parts, I see Spears Racing and YamahaR3Racing.com are the places to go. They pretty much have everything I would need, except for bodywork (I'd rather avoid Hotbodies this time).
I second Spears Racing and YamahaR3Racing. I've also got some of my stuff from them and they're very helpful folks. Only reason I shied away from Partzilla was some negative reviews I'd read about them. How fast do they ship? My only complaint about ProCaliber is that it usually takes a couple of weeks to get parts. But it's still probably faster than a dealer, and cheaper, and their customer service is pretty good.

As for Copart, yeah the fees can be brutal. I did a lot of research on that as well before I bought, so I expected it and figured it into my budget. Everybody's gotta make a buck, I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I also disagree. My salvage bike was damaged, yes, but the damage was minimal. If you were buying the bike for the track, you're going to replace a bunch of the OEM stuff anyway, like clip-ons, rearsets, fairings, and so on. Once I got the busted parts off the left side of my bike and washed the dirt off of it, it looked brand new. If I was going to put it back to 100% stock and just ride on the street, I would have put MAYBE $500 into it and it would have been good to go. $1500 or $4000? Sounds like a win to me. Yes, I've spent more than that because I'm upgrading a lot of things for the track. But that's money I would have spent anyway if I'd bought a new or clean used bike. I've bought some extras along the way and replaced a few other parts just because I like my stuff to be PERFECT (and probably would have done the same if I'd bought a non-salvage used bike), but that's just because I'm OCD, not because the bike needed them.

Totaled doesn't always mean basket case, especially with motorcycles. One scratch in the wrong place and the insurance companies will "total" them. Like I said, with the plastics off, a new clip on, and a new rear set, the bike looks new. It's only got 2000 mies on it. YES, you take a risk buying on an online insurance auction. But do your research, look at the pictures carefully (if it's close, GO INSPECT THE BIKE BEFORE THE AUCTION), and only bid what you feel is reasonable.

I'm confident I saved about $2500 off what I would have spent to have the same bike if I'd bought used. Yes, it will have a salvage title, but I'm not buying it for resale so I don't care. I bought it as a track bike and I fully expect it's gonna slide across the track and/or gravel at some point. I'm going to have a LOT less heartache about wrecking a salvage bike on the track than I would if I'd bought the thing new. But that's just me.
Exactly. Same boat here! My other 2 current bikes were also bought sight unseen, from private individuals. The CBR500 was salvage, came from Atlanta from a WERA guy who raced it. It had a salvage title but in perfect mechanical condition. The ZX6R came from Dallas from a CMRA guy with a clean title, but when I got it home I realized one of the frame spars where the engine mounts had been broken and a piece of aluminum was welded in its place. Works just as well also, but it technically is a damaged frame, yet it was never claimed since it was a race bike so the title is still clean. To me, titles are meaningless when it comes to motorcycles, especially ones used on the track. All that means is the resale value should be expected to be lower, but most race bikes sell for much less anyway and people that buy them usually don't care about titles. For me it's more of a way to have proof that it was a legit purchase and the bike isn't stolen.

Now, ultimately the cheapest way to go is to buy an already built up track bike, which will save you tons of money on aftermarket parts, so you get the best of both worlds, which is exactly what I did with my ZX6R (3500 miles, over $8500 in aftermarket parts...paid $4000 for it! Just needed new tires and was already setting personal bests in the first day!). However, the R3 is a relatively new bike. There aren't many built-up ones for sale that are going for cheap. All the ones I saw are at least $4k, and the ones that are really built-up well were selling for $5-6k. So at that point, the option of buying a dirt cheap crashed one and upgrading it on your own becomes a lot more attractive. Plus, I was also interested in doing this as a learning experience. Granted it's not really my first rodeo, however it will be the first time of actually starting from "scratch" and building up with the parts that I want. I'm also not pressed for time at all, so since I won't afford to buy everything all at once, I'm not gonna be bummed if it takes me like 8-9 months to finish it. I would like to at least ride it once this year, so my goal is to get it on track no later than September.
 

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Hi SBK1198, was in a similar situation (see pic), in the UK stock bikes are pretty expensive, and unlike the USA parts are top end on price as well. and as you point out it would be likely that a stock bike would ultimately end up being customised to your own preference!.

I have have purchased a delkevic end can, it now had 40mm handle bars which force the forks through the triple tree a further 15mm than stock. cnc rearset and passenger pegs when required.

the speedo was imported from the USA, brake resevoir (which had been chopped out) was replaced as a set, with shorty levers.

bodywork was a chinese set which went on ok, came with seat hump as well. genuine yamaha ignition switch, fender tidy with led number plate light, led indicators

just need mirrors, battery and decent tyres (tires),and thinking of lifting the rear end up about 10mm, purely for a bit of leg heigth,incidently, what year ZX6R battery fits?.
Based on spend so far i reckon I will be about £1000 to the good on current prices.
I will however be keeping it as i pranged the fireblade in 2015 (ouch) i have read so much about the R3 cant wait to give it a blast. Yes its a smaller bike, but they do say its more fun so we will see, when it altogether i will be posting some more pics.
good luck with the rebuild
 
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