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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I need some advice.

I bought a used 2015 R3 early last year. No manual and no history. I downloaded the service manual, but I'm not very mechanically savvy (yet), so I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction to start troubleshooting.

I had the bike in the bed of a pickup for a few days (driving from Idaho to MN). When I rolled it off the truck, I put the key in and turned it. All of the check lights came on as expected. When I turned it to start it, all the lights went off. No clicking, nothing.

I tested the battery and it's fine, and put it on a trickle charger just to be sure. I'm confident the battery isn't the problem. I don't know where to look now. Any ideas?

I realize this is likely a very elementary question. I want to learn how to do this myself and I've got to start somewhere...

Thanks in advance,

Cat
 

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When you turned the switch on, all looked good? Trying to start all lights on the dash went out? For good? or just while you were trying to start the bike.? Have you tried to start the bike with a battery charger hooked up and charging the battery?
Sorry, but never assume and know the battery is good, unless you've had it load tested to see how quickly it breaks down. A bad/weak battery can indeed test at or above 12V on a voltage meter, and still have a weak/dead cell that drops well below 12V as soon as a load is present (like trying to engage the starter). Any automotive supply store or motorcycle shop that sales batteries can load test your battery.. just "fully charge" it as best you can before you take it in. It must be "fully charged " to test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi there airhead83,

Thanks!

Yes, switch on, gauge needles moved, lights lit, I could hear the fuel pump. Pressed the start button and everything turned off. No click. No boom (fortunately). Just... nothing. And no amount of begging or cursing helped.

So I took the battery to Batteries Plus. The guy said it's fully charged and he bets it's not the battery.

I should put the battery in and try starting it with a charger? While I'm in there, is there a fuse to check?
 

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If he didn't load test the battery, he's only reading the static voltage and as I mentioned before, that doesn't check how the battery behaves under load. Sure, the easiest thing to do would be to re-install the battery and either hook up a traditional charger on 6-10 AMPs (not a trickle charge.. it wont put out enough amps) OR carefully try to jump start with an auto's battery while the vehicle idles. All you're doing is providing a sure source of constant 12Vs that has plenty of reserve. Even if the bike won't try to start... verify all lights and gauges on the dash work and sweep, and you'll eliminate the Main 30 amp fuse... because they won't work if the main fuse is blown. If nothing on the dash, or turn signals etc, we can guide you to the process of searching for the main fuse. You mentioned having access to the Service Manual...I'll attach a link for the R3's Owners Manual below.
If this happens to be the original OEM battery it'll be a "GS, Sealed MF, GTZ8V". The GS is a good battery and is a division of Yuasa Battery. But is seldom used as a replacement battery because most folks go with a different type or lighter battery, or find a comparable battery to the OEM at a cheaper price. IF it's the Original OEM, it would be 7 years old and well beyond it's life expectancy. Granted, they can last much longer with no problems, and they do on occasion. But you may be asking a lot out of the old girl. And now would give you an opportunity to look for autumn/winter sales from vendors.
Let us know how the boost/jump start works out, and notice if those lights and turn signals operate differently while external 12V power is present.. than by your bike's battery alone.
UB02E0E0.book (yamaha-motor.eu)
 

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If he didn't load test the battery, he's only reading the static voltage and as I mentioned before, that doesn't check how the battery behaves under load. Sure, the easiest thing to do would be to re-install the battery and either hook up a traditional charger on 6-10 AMPs (not a trickle charge.. it wont put out enough amps) OR carefully try to jump start with an auto's battery while the vehicle idles. All you're doing is providing a sure source of constant 12Vs that has plenty of reserve. Even if the bike won't try to start... verify all lights and gauges on the dash work and sweep, and you'll eliminate the Main 30 amp fuse... because they won't work if the main fuse is blown. If nothing on the dash, or turn signals etc, we can guide you to the process of searching for the main fuse. You mentioned having access to the Service Manual...I'll attach a link for the R3's Owners Manual below.
If this happens to be the original OEM battery it'll be a "GS, Sealed MF, GTZ8V". The GS is a good battery and is a division of Yuasa Battery. But is seldom used as a replacement battery because most folks go with a different type or lighter battery, or find a comparable battery to the OEM at a cheaper price. IF it's the Original OEM, it would be 7 years old and well beyond it's life expectancy. Granted, they can last much longer with no problems, and they do on occasion. But you may be asking a lot out of the old girl. And now would give you an opportunity to look for autumn/winter sales from vendors.
Let us know how the boost/jump start works out, and notice if those lights and turn signals operate differently while external 12V power is present.. than by your bike's battery alone.
UB02E0E0.book (yamaha-motor.eu)
Another possibility that I ran into early in is that, after getting wet, the bike wouldn't start. If you thumb the start button, do you hear a slight clicking noise coming from under the seat? If so, it's possible the starter solenoid has gotten wet and is tripping. If that's the case, take the pillion and the seat off and look near where the clicking is coming from. There is a rounded, cube-looking thing secured in place by a black elastic band. A quick burst of air (blowing, air compressor, canned air) should knock loose any residual moisture. Cycle the ignition and give it a go again.

PS The fact that this happens is DUMB. Come on engineers!
 

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Hello.. electrical problems with any car or motorcycle is a challenge. Before getting into a deep dive into troubleshooting, we need to ensure the “easy” fixes are not the issue. I just ask for your patience. For the following: - since you verified the battery is fully charged, ensure the battery is a 12v, 7Ah. Next, as Raize stated, it is a good recommendation. Let us know the status.
 

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Jump it via car battery before declaring the bike battery good. Car should be off and not running.
 
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