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Yes, the same filter that fits a ton of bikes including Ninja 300, Ninja 600, Triumph Street Triple R, FZ07, FZ09 will fit it. I have a Fram PH6017A on the R3 now. It is 1/8 inch longer than the oem filter is all. It takes the most common motorcycle oil filter there is. Lots of car filters will also fit it. Here is a partial list from a site that has been around for years: http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html All the filters listed under 5 at the bottom will fit. They won't necessarily have the exact same specs. Some are probably better than the oem filter too.
 

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Anyone match up an aftermarket filter yet?
See posts #23 , #24 and #25 in this thread: http://www.r3-forums.com/forum/530-oil-lube/3866-lets-talk-engine-oil.html

I bought a Mobil 1 (M1-110) filter today. I have almost 500 miles on my bike so I will do the 600 mile oil change within the next 2-3 days. I have two OEM filters on backorder from RMATV but I have no idea when they will get here. I have used the M1-110 on plenty of Hondas before with no issues.

Most people don't replace the drain gasket when they do oil changes, but I do. RMATV had those in stock. They are around $3 each. If the drain gasket was a (soft) flat washer, like it is on most Hondas, I would probably reuse it, but the Yamaha version is a ridged crush washer that is pretty delicate. (IMO)

Items #10 and #15 in the attached image. (Click it for a bigger image.)

10 1WD-E3415-00-00 SEAL, OIL STRAINER $2.40 $2.28
15 4YS-E1198-00-00 GASKET $3.23 $3.07

I already have M1 10W40 4T "Racing" oil in my bike. I had to dump the factory fill when I bought it because it was overfilled and I had no idea how much was in there. When I start my bike the oil pressure light flickers a little until I blip the throttle a little. I am pretty sure the M1-110 filter will not cause the bike to have a lower oil pressure at idle but I will check to be sure. A lot of people worry about the blowoff valve in filters being bypassed and letting unfiltered oil go to the engine, but I am okay with that as long as the filter only does it occasionally. The oil in engines is filtered so many times per minute that a few seconds of unfiltered oil is trivial. Note that the oil pressure light only blinks on startup, especially if the engine is warm. My guess is the hot oil drains to the crankcase and since it is on the sidestand the oil is off to one side. It takes a few seconds for the oil to circulate. I've never had a bike do this before but I am confident it is okay. That said, I monitor the oil pressure light closely on any vehicle I operate. In fact, when I change oil filters and I cannot prefill the oil filter with oil, like it is on the R3 since the filter is horizontal I will start the bike after the oil change with the throttle wide open. This signals the ECU to cut the spark to the cylinders to allow the engine to clear out a flooded condition. If you crank the engine this way the RPMs are very low and cause very little friction but the RPMs are high enough to circulate the oil.

YMMV
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This thread was 'moderated' and subsequently took forever to come up on the forum.

I did cross the Fram number AJNIN had to a Napa Gold 1358 and it was nearly an identical match to OEM and worked perfectly.

Just a note for others.... you WILL NEED an oil filter wrench to get off the factory installed oil filter.
 

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I can confirm that the Mobil 1 M1-110 filter works. As a side benefit it holds 75-100CC more oil than the stock filter. There is plenty of room for M1-110 even though it is slightly longer.

I have an OEM Honda oil filter removal tool and it worked perfectly on the R3's OEM filter. I didn't even have to wrench on it very hard. I have had other bikes that I have had to skewer with a screwdriver to get them unstuck.
 

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In fact, when I change oil filters and I cannot prefill the oil filter with oil, like it is on the R3 since the filter is horizontal I will start the bike after the oil change with the throttle wide open. This signals the ECU to cut the spark to the cylinders to allow the engine to clear out a flooded condition. If you crank the engine this way the RPMs are very low and cause very little friction but the RPMs are high enough to circulate the oil.
Guess what "feature" the R3 doesn't have? You guessed it! If you hold the throttle wide open and crank the bike it starts up and makes a ton of noise!

I was able to put 100CC oil in the filter before I installed it. The fibers in the filter soaked up the oil so none spilled out. It isn't as good as prefilling the filter with oil but it is as good as I can do.
 

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I still put some oil inside the filter. Some spills out, but not much. I think it shortens the time it takes for the oil pump to prime the system a second or so. I never thought of opening the throttle. With my luck the engine would race and cause damage. This oil starvation period of a few seconds on the re-start is one reason I have heard that you might not want to change your oil and filter too often. Another piece of anecdotal opinion to make the oil changes more stressful.
 

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NAPA 1365 is a no go on these bikes. A buddy gave me a case of them to use but the filter face bottoms on the nut on the center threaded shaft before the gasket crushes.

Fram and stockers have concave face to clear.

Just something to watch for. It mechanically stopped threading on before the usual squish of the gasket. Leaked immediately so be sure you feel the gasket crush when trying optional part number filters.
 

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For the Love of this Bike.
Please don't use a POS FRAM OIL FILTER!!!!!!
They are such Garbage....

I'd say use:
AMSOIL
WIX
Mobil 1
Baldwin
NAPA
In that order.

Also I just went to a dealer today to try and get a filter and oil.
He said the Filters are on back-order and Yamaha wont start shipping them till June 20 2015.
 

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There are as many opinions about oil filters as there are oil. Notice the website I listed that talks about motorcycle filters does not recommend any of the motorcycle filters. Who knows? I know people who swear by Fram oil filters and have been using them for many years and many miles.
 

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Yamaha superseded the 1WD filter already.

1WD-E3440-00-00 now changes upto 5GH-13440-50-00

Any Idea why they changed it? Hopefully to make it easier to get off and on! I had a **** of a time getting the original 1WD filter off.
Tried:
Rubber adjustable belt: slipped and failed.
Metal self adjusting band: slipped and failed.
Socket type: slipped and failed.
Self adjusting jaw: slipped and failed.
Nylon belt adjustable: slipped and failed.
I finally busted out my 18" Rigid pipe wrench and the filter didn't stand a chance! It turned right off but I had to remove the left side plastic for clearance.
Turned the new 1WD filter back on with the rubber strap type.
I hope the new 5GH filter is easier. Maybe that was the change?
 

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I put in a K&N filter from a ninja 600 that seems to do the trick perfectly. Already went through two OEMs before I switched but the K&N is definitely better. Hasn't taken long to rack up the miles and the fluid changes!
 
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