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Oil Filter

61196 Views 55 Replies 29 Participants Last post by  ExTex
Anyone match up an aftermarket filter yet?
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Any Idea why they changed it? Hopefully to make it easier to get off and on! I had a **** of a time getting the original 1WD filter off.
Tried:
Rubber adjustable belt: slipped and failed.
Metal self adjusting band: slipped and failed.
Socket type: slipped and failed.
Self adjusting jaw: slipped and failed.
Nylon belt adjustable: slipped and failed.
I finally busted out my 18" Rigid pipe wrench and the filter didn't stand a chance! It turned right off but I had to remove the left side plastic for clearance.
Turned the new 1WD filter back on with the rubber strap type.
I hope the new 5GH filter is easier. Maybe that was the change?
Im going to venture a guess its because its more economical to source and sell the 5GH as the 1WD is manufactured in Indonesia along with the bike.

And yes, the factory installed filter is a ROYAL P.I.T.A to take off. I almost had the front wheel off the ground before mine let go.
Just an update, After the K&N 148 oil filter and almost 2.2 qt of Mobil 1 oil, the bikes is much much smoother and the engine has calmed down and most of the vibrations are gone. Now the bike has almost no sound. I really need to get rid of the CAT and put a new pipe.
That crush washer costs $4. You can't even reverse it because it isn't the same on both sides. Talk about a rip off. My Vespa has a rubber o-ring gasket that you keep reusing forever, so right there you know this crush washer thing is BS. I've changed oil twice now with the same original crush washer and it hasn't leaked though, so who knows how many times you can reuse it. You don't want to go above torque specs however to try and stop a leak or you could strip the threads ON THE BIKE.
My Yamaha dealer is having a 40% off single in-stock parts so I went to pick up an oil filter. He said he didn't have any and would have to order it. I had written down the 5GH oil filter no. and he said that wasn't the right filter. I see Amazon even lists that filter as being for the R3 though. He said he went to the Yamaha site and they also don't list the 5GH filter as being the right one. My other dealer Kent Power Sports doesn't even have R3 parts on their computer so you can't even order oil filters, crush washers etc.Makes you wonder how they would service your bike since they sell the R3. I mentioned both the forum and the fact Amazon lists the 5GH filter as the right one. The parts guy said he had that filter and would sell it to me, but it isn't listed as the right part. I didn't buy it yet though until I find out a little more about this.
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Did an oil change last weekend and found the KN148 is a little bigger than OEM and the KN204 is a little smaller. Both fit.
Yes. K and n Fram and others will eventually get around to naming filters they already have as compatible. I liked the Fram I put on..it was also a little longer but it has a nice thicket o-ring that made it easy to seal. K and n is probably a better filter...has a better rep than Fram anyway.
hi guys, just rechecking, it is turning anti clockwise facing the filter thread to remove the filter?
Yes, righty-tighty, lefty-loosey :)
And several of us have experienced an overly-torqued filter from the factory :-(
303C, I've been putting 303 oil filters in for all my changes since and no issues at all, if anything works better than the OEM one that came on it.
That crush washer costs $4. You can't even reverse it because it isn't the same on both sides. Talk about a rip off. My Vespa has a rubber o-ring gasket that you keep reusing forever, so right there you know this crush washer thing is BS. I've changed oil twice now with the same original crush washer and it hasn't leaked though, so who knows how many times you can reuse it. You don't want to go above torque specs however to try and stop a leak or you could strip the threads ON THE BIKE.
Just go buy a bunch at Harbor Freight or fleabay - pennies apiece. Most auto parts stores have them at about $0.50 each. Copper crush washers can be re-used if you re-anneal them.
Im going to venture a guess its because its more economical to source and sell the 5GH as the 1WD is manufactured in Indonesia along with the bike.

And yes, the factory installed filter is a ROYAL P.I.T.A to take off. I almost had the front wheel off the ground before mine let go.
Both the 1WD and 5GH are made in Thailand. I saved my original filter and crush washer in the new 5GH filter box as a keepsake =D I've also drained oil twice, and reused the same "new" crush washer during my first oil change because I overfilled and it hasn't leaked in 1200 miles.
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URGENT URGENT URGENT URGENT URGENT URGENT URGENT URGENT


The WIX 51356 DOES NOT WORK ON THE R3

IT DOES NOT SEAL ALL THE WAY

YOU WILL RUIN YOUR MOTORCYCLE

YOU WILL NOT KNOW TIL YOU ARE GOING DOWN THE ROAD AND ALL YOUR OIL COMES OUT

The 51358 works fine.

It was my first oil filter change so I had no idea what was supposed to even happen.
Look up a youtube video first
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URGENT URGENT URGENT URGENT URGENT URGENT URGENT URGENT


The WIX 51356 DOES NOT WORK ON THE R3

IT DOES NOT SEAL ALL THE WAY

YOU WILL RUIN YOUR MOTORCYCLE

YOU WILL NOT KNOW TIL YOU ARE GOING DOWN THE ROAD AND ALL YOUR OIL COMES OUT

The 51358 works fine.

It was my first oil filter change so I had no idea what was supposed to even happen.
Look up a youtube video first
I wasn't even going to read this until I saw the 7th URGENT, then when I saw the 8th one I was like "whoa, maybe this is urgent." Glad I did!
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I bought mine (Yamaha filter) when I purchased the bike. The vortex oil filter with the built in nut. Are around $12.75 @ sportsbiketrack.com
STG
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I used the K&N 207(?) filter. It is actually a little shorter than stock but it fits perfect. I believe its the filter the FZ-07 uses. You can get them for ~$10 on amazon and they have the built in nut. I didn't replace my crush washer, the guy at the dealership didn't have any in stock but told me he never replaces his so I figured I would just chance it. Haven't had any leakage so far!
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Oh, and my factory filter was also a nightmare to get off. It wouldn't screw off at all so I clamped down on it with a channel wrench, crushed it a bit to get some grip and then wrenched it to get it moving. Took a few rotations and was crushed to **** afterwords but it was going in the trash anyways, so oh well!
The issue with the WIX filter was identified some time ago. http://www.r3-forums.com/forum/530-oil-lube/23289-oil-filters-do-not-work-r3.html
A refresh of this information is probably appropriate, but checking other threads before posting is something we encourage newer members to do - saves flame time.
I think a lot of us found the OEM filter to be a wee bit tight. I used the screwdriver method when I finally decided enough was enough.
Sticky created
Does anyone have any input on stainless steel oil filters? I do a lot of commuting so within 8 oil changes I'd be breaking even on the price tag.

http://store.hardracing.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=17255&category_id=

Just want to know if anyone has one without issues
Does anyone have any input on stainless steel oil filters? I do a lot of commuting so within 8 oil changes I'd be breaking even on the price tag.

http://store.hardracing.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=17255&category_id=

Just want to know if anyone has one without issues
Buying a new filter every time is only about $10, so you wouldn't break even until ~14 oil changes after shipping costs from HardRacing.

If you don't count the break in, 14 oil changes (3000mi intervals) is ~42,000 miles. I'd reckon most people won't put that many miles on their R3 since its a first-step bike for a lot of guys, so unless you plan to keep it for the long term then the stainless filter would not be worth it.

IMO it still would not be worth it unless if you plan on keeping the bike literally forever. Even then 42k miles on an R3 is a lot! If the stainless filter fails or becomes damaged/dysfunctional at any point before 42k miles then you are losing money, likely a substantial amount unless it fails after oil change 10. Plus, you'd have to properly clean it every oil change. Not a huge deal, but its extra work that you avoid when you replace it every time, and after 14 oil changes all that cleaning time would add up.

If the quality is fantastic and it works flawlessly and doesn't get damaged and you ride your bike for 42k miles then you save $10 on your next oil change. (45k miles). Spending $130 now to maybe save $10 in 45k miles seems like a waste to me. I would rather put that money towards an exhaust, PCV, or really anything else, lol. Heck, if you put 45k miles on your bike then that $140 on the stainless filter would be much better used towards other needed maintenance on the bike at that mileage!
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Thank you for your insights vercify. I appreciate your doing some math :)

So after a little investigating. Turns out that stainless steel oil filter could be used on the r6 and r1.

Like I mentioned, I do 60+ miles of commuting every day day (5 days a week + some weekends joy rides). I like to buy the K&N oil filter which is ~$15. At this rate I'm doing an oil change every two months so it would take me around ~18 months to break even with the stainless steel filter.

By that time (18 mos), I think I'd move on to an r1 or r6 and I'd be able to use that same oil filter on the bike I use most often.

I just wanted to know if anyone was using them or if they had problems using them. I appreciate any further feedback
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