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Oil Filter

61196 Views 55 Replies 29 Participants Last post by  ExTex
Anyone match up an aftermarket filter yet?
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Any Idea why they changed it? Hopefully to make it easier to get off and on! I had a **** of a time getting the original 1WD filter off.
Tried:
Rubber adjustable belt: slipped and failed.
Metal self adjusting band: slipped and failed.
Socket type: slipped and failed.
Self adjusting jaw: slipped and failed.
Nylon belt adjustable: slipped and failed.
I finally busted out my 18" Rigid pipe wrench and the filter didn't stand a chance! It turned right off but I had to remove the left side plastic for clearance.
Turned the new 1WD filter back on with the rubber strap type.
I hope the new 5GH filter is easier. Maybe that was the change?
I use this for my car:

Channellock Oil Filter Wrench

I am hoping that it will work when I get my R3.
I use this for my car:

Channellock Oil Filter Wrench

I am hoping that it will work when I get my R3.
I found no way to edit posts on this forum (did I miss something?), so I am reduced to quoting myself.

I bought the wrench at Home Depot. It has been VERY useful for cars because it is strong enough that you can grip the oil filter from the top and still turn it off. Most wrenches require that you grip the oil filter from the side.
All the tools in the world will do you no good if you do not have a strong grip and can turn the filter with or without the tools.
Bmc filter worth it?

Just bought one on hardracing.Com anyone have experience ordering from this site? Was it a good one?

Also as far as with the filter is there a noticeable difference? As miniscule as it may feel or sound?
installed mine with standard flow type to match my slip-on exhaust.
so far so good, noticeable improvement on pick-ups .
looking forward for upgrading spark plugs and braided brake hose ;)
I found no way to edit posts on this forum (did I miss something?), so I am reduced to quoting myself.

I bought the wrench at Home Depot. It has been VERY useful for cars because it is strong enough that you can grip the oil filter from the top and still turn it off. Most wrenches require that you grip the oil filter from the side.
Every new bike I have owned has had their original filter on super tight. Every used bike that has had service done at a dealership seems to have the same problem. I have several different tools for removing filters because of that. You can always just stick a screwdriver into the old filter and twist. Sometimes you actually have to lol. Just stay as close to the end as possible to avoid damaging your bike.

I use a hose clamp and safety wire to make sure that filter isnt going to come loose. Have had an experience in the past with a drain bolt coming off while riding. Not fun. Safety wire on every bike filter/drain bolts from now on.

All the tools in the world will do you no good if you do not have a strong grip and can turn the filter with or without the tools.
Is that your politically correct version of "quit being a bitch and put some back into it!" ? lol

Just bought one on hardracing.Com anyone have experience ordering from this site? Was it a good one?

Also as far as with the filter is there a noticeable difference? As miniscule as it may feel or sound?
I have ordered from them. Pretty good customer service and delivery time.
I use this for my car:

Channellock Oil Filter Wrench

I am hoping that it will work when I get my R3.
Those are sweet - and they do the job well (not for installing by the way) - trouble is, many modern vehicles are so tight it's hard to get a good bite, so I have a selection of cups, strap wrenches and sharp screwdrivers to deal with most situations - I may need to get another Channelock to feed my tool affliction - Fortunately, the R3 oil filter has fairly unhindered access.

For first oil filter removal - this turned out to be the perfect solution: (actually from a Ninja 300 forum) - Hey, persistence pays off I guess.

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Purolator Golddddddddddddddddddd

Hey anybody find a cross reference for the Purolator Gold? They are my personal favorite, strictly in terms of bang for the buck. They're about $6 and work great.

However, I received a false cross reference, and after about 1000 miles, i left my bike in the garage for a few hours and noticed it created a pool of oil. LUCKILY, i lost only about an oz of oil before I discovered it, so no damage will be done, but whew! Let me know if any of you guys find a compatible purolator or purolator gold!
I used synthetic XG7317 that also works on Civic / Fit / Mazda / FZ6R / etc ... so far no engine death ... the threaded entrance is concave inward, no fitment problem.

The filter is longer than stock. It will take more clogging before bypassing. Generally bypass can be when oil is cold before warming up, high rpm, and filter element clogged.

I guess the worst would be a clogged fliter, but the engine oil pump can't overcome the bypass psi. Then no oil would flow, but I don't think that can actually happen with positive displacement oil pump, either the bypass will open, or the filter element will give out.

Apparently the synthetic XG is 11-13 psi bypass, so that shouldn't be a problem. That's a typical psi for spin-ons.

One interesting thing imo is that racers may want a higher psi bypass filter.

I couldn't find the bypass psi rating of the stock R3 filter.
There's more to a filter than just if it bolts and and seals up. Bypass pressure is very important. My Subaru, for example, calls for a bypass pressure of 23psi. There are some filters on the market that have the exact same physical dimensions that bypass at 5psi. That's a big difference.

Has anyone here actually tried calling Wix or someone to see if they have any recommendations?
Using VIC C-806 oil filter fit perfectly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Now using KN-303.
So far so good.
Just finished the first 600 mile change on mine today. I guess I'm lucky because I didn't have the same trouble others had. The filter was snug but not overly tight and broke loose after a few tugs on the end with some channel locks.

Slapped on a new Mobil M1-110 after priming it with oil to about 3/4ths full, added a little over two quarts of 4T 10W40 Mobil 1. Ran it 3 or 4 minutes, topped it off and called it a day. ;)

****, I didn't even get the momentary oil light blinkage afterwards. Took it for spin later on - smooth as butter.

A few tips:

- Removing the lower S-fairing on the left side will save you a lot of headache

- Put duct tape on the filter prior to yanking on it for a better grip with the channel locks (or whatever tool you're using)

- Prime the filter in advance. Only needed to add a little over 2 quarts to start with. I put small piece of 2x4 under the kickstand (don't have a stand) to bring the bike mostly level. I kept an eye on the oil window when starting it and watched it go down. Let it get warm, then topped it off as necessary from there. In which case it just needed a small amount.

Hope this helps.
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A few tips:
- Removing the S-fairing on the left side will save you a lot of headache
THiS ^^^
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Have a little bit over full, but there's still a small bubble at the top of the sight window. It's been like this for 800 miles without any issue so far. Didn't want to try to remove just 2 mm of oil. Will try to pre-fill the filter next time -- I saw the oil light flicker thing.
Prefilling the filter with oil.
Stand the filter on it's end and pour oil into it. After a few minutes, add more oil.
Continue the wait & fill until the filter is full.
Then pour the oil from the filter back into the oil container (use a funnel).
When you can hold the filter almost horizontal, you are ready to install it.
Be sure the rubber seal is lubricated with oil. No waste and the filter material is saturated with oil.

Ride safely
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