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Discussion Starter #1
First pic: couple of droplets that I wiped off the ground.
Second pic: oil droplet
Third pic: From what I can see the trial ends right around where the arrow is pointing.

So I'll keep it short. Hard break-in, changing oil at 200 miles. Notice a droplet at the end of the oil pan, couldn't find where the leak is coming from. Brought it to the dealership to fix it, after diagnostic they say its from the starter. The ****? Didn't make sense to me, since I don't know jack crap about motorcycles, so I'll trust the guy and take it home. So I driven the bike for a week after that day and everyday there was at least a one drop of oil leaking everyday of riding. So it is about 600 miles and I decide bring the bike in again. It is in the shop right now and hope they can find and fix the problem. It sucks that I don't get to ride my bike for a few days. Maybe even more, if it is what I think it is(a hair line crack on the oil pan) I'm going to be sad/pissed. If so I would be waiting who knows how long, considering that dealerships can't even get oil filters in, imagine an oil pan. Hopefully its not a common problem, check y'all oil pans!

Question for the people who know:

When the dealership assemble the bike, do they just assemble the wheels, fairings and what not? Or they actually assemble the engine?

Will update as soon as I get more info on the bike.
 

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The dealers don't assemble anything; they simply uncrate the bike, pull off some protective plastic film, charge the battery (mine didn't), check fluids, clean the bike, and put a gallon of gas in the tank. See photo in FangShui's post (you'll have to search, not sure which one)--it shows the bike in the steel "crate" as unloaded from the truck.

I also did a hard break-in, but no leaks. Mine only has 170 miles, because I took all the bodywork off for painting and haven't ridden it since a month ago. I ran into some delays with a rearset install, so although its looking good, it can't be ridden until a longer brake line is installed.

Did you do the oil change yourself? Maybe you put too much oil in the bike? My dealer did that on another bike I own, and sure enough oil was leaking after a really hard ride. I siphoned about 10 ounces out of the crankcase using a clear vinyl tube until the oil level was between the full and low lines. No more oil leaks and the bike runs fine.
Clean the engine of all dripping oil, ride it, then trace the leak.
 

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QUOTE: Question for the people who know:

When the dealership assemble the bike, do they just assemble the wheels, fairings and what not? Or they actually assemble the engine? QUOTE

Here's the bike as the dealer receives it



View attachment 4241
 

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I've just picked up my R3 today, the dealer told me NOT EXCEED 7000 RPM, this is for the first 600 miles, the first service (including oil change) must be done by a registered Yamaha dealer. 8400 RPM max for the next 400 miles. After showing the bike to friends they can't believe how much the bikes have changed as this has all sorts of electrics on it, so not so much of a bike if you are a novice to "tinker" about with unless you are knowledgeable with the workings. I was told the two year warranty only apples if you get the dealer to do the servicing work and the book stamped.

My previous new bike leaked fluid every time I stopped, I left it alone and after a weeks use it stooped, I guess it was sorting itself out (I also did a proper run in) then performance improved over time.

A "hard" run in is used a lot by racers on a track, but reduces the engin life by 50% and causes a lot of future problems, and I had about 30 old bikers today going over the bike today as they've not seen one of these yet! Lots of chatting over a coffee.
 

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I've just picked up my R3 today, the dealer told me NOT EXCEED 7000 RPM, this is for the first 600 miles, the first service (including oil change) must be done by a registered Yamaha dealer. 8400 RPM max for the next 400 miles. After showing the bike to friends they can't believe how much the bikes have changed as this has all sorts of electrics on it, so not so much of a bike if you are a novice to "tinker" about with unless you are knowledgeable with the workings. I was told the two year warranty only apples if you get the dealer to do the servicing work and the book stamped.

My previous new bike leaked fluid every time I stopped, I left it alone and after a weeks use it stooped, I guess it was sorting itself out (I also did a proper run in) then performance improved over time.

A "hard" run in is used a lot by racers on a track, but reduces the engin life by 50% and causes a lot of future problems, and I had about 30 old bikers today going over the bike today as they've not seen one of these yet! Lots of chatting over a coffee.
Whas is that so called HARD RUN??
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The dealers don't assemble anything; they simply uncrate the bike, pull off some protective plastic film, charge the battery (mine didn't), check fluids, clean the bike, and put a gallon of gas in the tank. See photo in FangShui's post (you'll have to search, not sure which one)--it shows the bike in the steel "crate" as unloaded from the truck.

I also did a hard break-in, but no leaks. Mine only has 170 miles, because I took all the bodywork off for painting and haven't ridden it since a month ago. I ran into some delays with a rearset install, so although its looking good, it can't be ridden until a longer brake line is installed.

Did you do the oil change yourself? Maybe you put too much oil in the bike? My dealer did that on another bike I own, and sure enough oil was leaking after a really hard ride. I siphoned about 10 ounces out of the crankcase using a clear vinyl tube until the oil level was between the full and low lines. No more oil leaks and the bike runs fine.
Clean the engine of all dripping oil, ride it, then trace the le
-When I was going to change the oil at 200 miles that's when I notice the leak. They did over fill the engine, because the oil meter was filled all the way up when standing straight upright. After they said "its nothing, its just starter fluid they didnt clean up." after that I changeed it at 200 miles since the hard break in. After the change it was at the correct level and it still leaked.

Edit: My friend have bought two new bikes, a Honda cbr500 and a Honda Ruckus and they both were over filled. I assume that's because of the break-in period. But that's Honda, so I not really suree.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've just picked up my R3 today, the dealer told me NOT EXCEED 7000 RPM, this is for the first 600 miles, the first service (including oil change) must be done by a registered Yamaha dealer. 8400 RPM max for the next 400 miles. After showing the bike to friends they can't believe how much the bikes have changed as this has all sorts of electrics on it, so not so much of a bike if you are a novice to "tinker" about with unless you are knowledgeable with the workings. I was told the two year warranty only apples if you get the dealer to do the servicing work and the book stamped.

My previous new bike leaked fluid every time I stopped, I left it alone and after a weeks use it stooped, I guess it was sorting itself out (I also did a proper run in) then performance improved over time.

A "hard" run in is used a lot by racers on a track, but reduces the engin life by 50% and causes a lot of future problems, and I had about 30 old bikers today going over the bike today as they've not seen one of these yet! Lots of chatting over a coffee.


-I've read the whole manual, especially the break-in part and maintenance. Within the first 200 miles I did go pass 7000rpms, but only up to 8000rpms, and was not that often. I think even going to 8000rpms shouldn't cause a leak. Dealers tell you to service at their shops because of money or the person don't know much about maintenance. I am assuming if they show you how to change your oil in the manual, it should not void your warranty.

I've done research about "Hard Break-ins" and they say it's better for the engine. I've asked few of my friends who ride and are mechanics(not motorcyles) about hard break-ins, they said it's better than factory break-in, so I chose that route.
 

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The "mates" advice is not the best route, Yamaha will take just the tiniest deviation to the manual to void the warenty, same with buying a new car. If you were getting a second hand bike I'd say go for it, do what you want, but if it ***** up and it's not your fault who's stuck with the bill????

Think about it, if you do as they say, all repairs are covered by them!!! If not you're stuck with repair charges!!!
 

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FYI, the manual merely recommends avoiding PROLONGED operation above 7000rpm during the first 600 miles and 8400rpm until 1000 miles. So momentarily exceeding 7000rpm is perfectly acceptable, such as during hard acceleration. I had my r3 up to 10,000rpm on several occasions during break in, but kept all extended cruising below 7000rpm.

Dumb question, have you double checked your drain plug? Make sure its super snug. Sometimes you're will get a leak there and one drop will work its way all the way to the lowest point on the engine box (like your pic) and appear like its leaking there. The oil will work it's way down the threads when the engine is hot and running and then the oil trapped on the threads drips out as the bike sits.

Good luck.
 

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The "mates" advice is not the best route, Yamaha will take just the tiniest deviation to the manual to void the warenty, same with buying a new car. If you were getting a second hand bike I'd say go for it, do what you want, but if it ***** up and it's not your fault who's stuck with the bill????

Think about it, if you do as they say, all repairs are covered by them!!! If not you're stuck with repair charges!!!
I'm not sure this is entirely accurate. It is not uncommon for motors broken in and used for race bikes to be covered by warranty as long as you do no engine mods. In any case, the dealer has no way to monitor the rider's break in procedure. The key is to not run the motor at a steady RPM for the first 500 or so to allow valve train parts to face harden properly.


OP - the oil leak is not likely related to your break-in procedure. It's more likely the simple stuff like a loose bolt or failed gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The "mates" advice is not the best route, Yamaha will take just the tiniest deviation to the manual to void the warenty, same with buying a new car. If you were getting a second hand bike I'd say go for it, do what you want, but if it ***** up and it's not your fault who's stuck with the bill????

Think about it, if you do as they say, all repairs are covered by them!!! If not you're stuck with repair charges!!!
I'm not sure this is entirely accurate. It is not uncommon for motors broken in and used for race bikes to be covered by warranty as long as you do no engine mods. In any case, the dealer has no way to monitor the rider's break in procedure. The key is to not run the motor at a steady RPM for the first 500 or so to allow valve train parts to face harden properly.


OP - the oil leak is not likely related to your break-in procedure. It's more likely the simple stuff like a loose bolt or failed gasket.
Yeah, I was hoping its just the gasket.

FYI, the manual merely recommends avoiding PROLONGED operation above 7000rpm during the first 600 miles and 8400rpm until 1000 miles. So momentarily exceeding 7000rpm is perfectly acceptable, such as during hard acceleration. I had my r3 up to 10,000rpm on several occasions during break in, but kept all extended cruising below 7000rpm.

Dumb question, have you double checked your drain plug? Make sure its super snug. Sometimes you're will get a leak there and one drop will work its way all the way to the lowest point on the engine box (like your pic) and appear like its leaking there. The oil will work it's way down the threads when the engine is hot and running and then the oil trapped on the threads drips out as the bike sits.

Good luck.
I wiped it clean before and waited over night(since its a really slow leak) and its not coming fron the drain plug.
 

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QUOTE: Question for the people who know:

When the dealership assemble the bike, do they just assemble the wheels, fairings and what not? Or they actually assemble the engine? QUOTE

Here's the bike as the dealer receives it



View attachment 4241
AFAIK They also give the battery a quick charge and install it. The rest of the R3 is largely assembled already.
 

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"Stirz:I'm not sure this is entirely accurate. It is not uncommon for motors broken in and used for race bikes to be covered by warranty as long as you do no engine mods. In any case, the dealer has no way to monitor the rider's break in procedure. The key is to not run the motor at a steady RPM for the first 500 or so to allow valve train parts to face harden properly."


What about the ECU? I think it stores information that the dealer can access. Things like RPMs, odometer, and top speed among other data. Hopefully, I'm wrong on this particular model, or my warranty is toast.
 

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I am not sure the ECU includes a data logging function that would monitor and record break-in values.

The suggested break-in procedure is recommended as far as I know, not a requirement for maintaining warranty. For most buyers, a bike like the R3 is a first bike, so a cautious approach to 'recommended' break-in procedure is probably prudent and reasonable. I didn't have that luxury and admit my break-in was more along the lines of 'rode it like I stole it'.

If the dealers got so petty as to void warranties based up data logs of break-in, I'd expect the negative backlash would not be insignificant.

My dealer is totally aware of my intended (race only) use for the bike and was not concerned about the warranty being valid. He sold two other bikes (R1, R6) that went straight from showroom to dyno - same deal - warranty good as long as not modified.


I'd offer this: follow recommended procedure as best you can, but don't obsess over it too much.
 

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My R3 didn't see 7000 rpms for the first 15 minutes. Then it saw redline briefly several times. That is called a hard break in. Well, there's a little more to it than that but you can read all about it online. All it does is help seat the piston rings faster and presumably better. It wouldn't be related to an oil leak. Too much oil could do this. It would also likely put oil into the air filter, so I would check that if it turns out there was too much oil. The most likely cause of an oil leak is leakage around the oil filter or drain bolt. Oil slinging off the chain and onto the front sprocket is another way you can get oil dripping. It's not engine oil of course unless you oil your chain with engine oil, but once oil gets dark, it's hard to tell what kind it is. The dealer or Yamaha wouldn't use wet chain oil though. They use the wax. Loose oil filler cap is another possibility. There's an o-ring that must seal the cap or it will leak. Once oil drips down, it goes to the lowest part of the bike and it can be hard to tell where it came from.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My R3 didn't see 7000 rpms for the first 15 minutes. Then it saw redline briefly several times. That is called a hard break in. Well, there's a little more to it than that but you can read all about it online. All it does is help seat the piston rings faster and presumably better. It wouldn't be related to an oil leak. Too much oil could do this. It would also likely put oil into the air filter, so I would check that if it turns out there was too much oil. The most likely cause of an oil leak is leakage around the oil filter or drain bolt. Oil slinging off the chain and onto the front sprocket is another way you can get oil dripping. It's not engine oil of course unless you oil your chain with engine oil, but once oil gets dark, it's hard to tell what kind it is. The dealer or Yamaha wouldn't use wet chain oil though. They use the wax. Loose oil filler cap is another possibility. There's an o-ring that must seal the cap or it will leak. Once oil drips down, it goes to the lowest part of the bike and it can be hard to tell where it came from.
The leak is not coming from neither the drain plug or oil filter. If I leave it overnight without touching the bikE it still leaks. The trail is so faint that im not sure where its coming from, the third picture shows where I think the trail ends/starts.
 

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That area of the crankcase is the lowest part when the bike is on the kickstand, so it's where you would expect oil draining from above to end up and drip off...especially from the filter or oil plug. I would take off the front sprocket guard and check that. I would take a perfectly dry, white paper napkin or towel and get all around the oil filter and drain plug. Any moisture at all means oil is seeping out. It's very common. Check all those crankcase bolts too and go over those as well with a napkin. You might have to wipe down everything around really well to begin with to make sure it's perfectly dry and clean...then ride it, wait a little for the bike to cool down, then go over everything with your new clean white paper napkin including above the oil filter. I think you will find the source of your oil then.
 

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Samacus, AJ Nin said your AIR filter, not your OIL filter. Check your airbox out first. Also you can use spray foot powder to pinpoint leak locations. The spray will be white and dry looking. Any wet areas will be positively noticeable. You can buy this spray foot powder at any pharmacy.
 
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