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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My bike has from day one sometimes taken excessive amounts of time to build oil pressure after starting. Mostly the light goes off after a second or so, but sometimes it can take 10 seconds or more for the light to extinguish. While this always happens after the bike is restarted after having been ridden, mostly it's fine, but sometimes not.

Plenty of oil, filter changed, no bad sounds.

Is anyone else experiencing this?

thx,

Dam
 

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My bike has from day one sometimes taken excessive amounts of time to build oil pressure after starting. Mostly the light goes off after a second or so, but sometimes it can take 10 seconds or more for the light to extinguish. While this always happens after the bike is restarted after having been ridden, mostly it's fine, but sometimes not.

Plenty of oil, filter changed, no bad sounds.

Is anyone else experiencing this?

thx,

Dam
I've never seen mine stay on for more then a second and only a little more then one second right after the oil change to prime the system. Have it checked out and how many miles do you have? Since brand new? What type of oil did you put in it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The bike has about 2,800 miles on it. Hasn't changed since new. The factory-recommended stuff.

Dan
 

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Mine does same thing. Before and after 600 mile service. Now at 2,800. Did warm start the other day, oil light stayed on, revved, light came back on, took 3 revs (2,500 rpm each) to get light to stay out.
Anyone know (service manual) where a oil pressure port could be tapped for a gauge?
Oil level is mid glass when cold.
Yamalube (dealer did 600 mile service).
 

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Another thought: is there a check valve to keep oil from draining back out of the oil pump? Almost like oil pump is losing prime...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have the service manual. The oil pressure sender is behind the sprocket cover, so not too hard to access. One could connect a gauge there. The oil pump/relief valve is behind the clutch (if I remember correctly).

My theory is that the pressure relief valve is getting stuck open so it bleeds off the pressure instead of allowing it to build. Glad to hear that I'm not the only one experiencing this. My symptoms are exactly like those that AgCat is experiencing. When was yours built?

The dealer is willing to check it out, but I'm not sure anything will come of it. Guess I'll keep an eye on it and do the warranty thing if it seems to be getting worse.

Anyone else experiencing this?
 

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Mine was built 03/15 (date on frame sticker).

Good idea! Could be a piece of crap holding the pressure relief valve open slightly. Generally it takes about 5 min or more of shutdown for the symptom to show up (long enough to fill gas) - did it yesterday.
If off for less than 5 (estimated), the light goes out and stays out on startup - did it today.
Doesn't do it when stone cold, which tells me the oil is thick enough to immediately create and hold oil pressure.

Does the service manual show if the relief valve is accessible to inspect?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The relief valve is integral with the oil pump, which is under the clutch. Mine does exactly the same thing which leads me to believe that the relief valve is sticking open...sometimes. When was yours made?
 

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Mine was built 3/15.

Does the oil system schematic show a check valve?

It's probably downstream of the filter (if there is one).

Can you post a pic of the oil system schematic?
 

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Theory: if the relief valve is leaking, the oil in the engine is probably draining back thru it. Takes a few minutes, (like 5 min). Shorter time = less oil drained, so oil pressure light sees oil pressure right away, because the oil hasn't drained down past the sensor. Maybe...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here's a scan of the lubrication schematic.
#2 is the oil pump
#3 is the relief valve
#4 is the oil filter
#5 is the sub gallery
#6 is the oil pressure switch
7-16 are lubricated parts

I suspect the filter has a flow back prevention valve, but I didn't find any difference between the original filter and the new one installed at 600 miles.
 

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Ahhh...
The oil filter has a bypass valve in it to send oil around the filter if it gets plugged. You can see it if you cut the filter open. It's on the end opposite the inlet/outlet, and has a spring holding a plug against the filter. I was once told "the spring is to keep the filter from rattling around loose"...

The relief valve regulates the oil pressure. Needed because at 12,000 rpm, the oil pump is REALLY putting out oil, so the regulator (relief) valve opens, and keeps the pressure fairly constant.
Still, there could be a piece of debris holding the valve open slightly, allowing oil to drain back to the case. Wouldn't take much, a piece of metal shaving. Hot oil will drain a lot quicker, which is why we don't see it on cold starts. I don't know if oil can drain backwards thru the oil pump.
Maybe checking oil pressure at idle, both hot and cold, will help diagnose this.
Wondering if the relief valve completely closes at shutdown, which would keep oil in the system. Hate the fact that the valve is under the clutch...
 

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Changed oil & filter couple days ago: From Yamalube 20-W50 to Yamalube 10-W40. Filter NAPA Gold 1358. Oil light goes out right away now...
 

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I wonder if these issues are why the oil pump is part of the upcoming recall. I had this issue before and after my only oil change so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I suspect so. As best I can tell the pressure relief system doesn't work correctly, sometimes bleeding pressure when it shouldn't. Not a huge deal as long as the engine isn't running at 9k RPM...but a pretty serious one if it is. I'm a little concerned that although it appears that they are going to replace the oil pump and clutch, the fact is that the bike has endured too much time running without adequate oil pressure. Whether that's caused any loss of engine longevity is hard to know. Hopefully not.
 

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I wonder if these issues are why the oil pump is part of the upcoming recall. I had this issue before and after my only oil change so far.
Upon further review, the oil pump is under recall because a plastic gear can possibly strip out. I doubt this has anything to do with the pressure issue.

Or maybe it's something else and they're hiding the recall reason :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'll bet there's a relationship between the plastic gear's propensity to strip and the duty cycle it's exposed to....which is related to the relief valve function. There's something rotten in Denmark here.
 

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I had this happen to me once when it was a warm restart after a short run. I thought it was because I had forgotten to turn it off with the engine switch. Usually I turn the key to 'on' then the engine switch to on, then start. Took a few seconds for the oil light to go out. Since then, as long as I turn it off correctly and allow the engine to prime each time, I don't have that issue. But I've also got less than 500 kms on it so far so who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just had the clutch/oil pump recall done. Oil pressure now builds immediately. Big difference. I believe that in addition to the plastic gear issue there was a design/manufacturing issue that caused the relief valve to stick. Glad that Yamaha figured this out and fixed it.
 
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