Yamaha R3 Forums banner

21 - 40 of 46 Posts

Registered
Joined
204 Posts
Ooo good question. I did not request new coolant. I just assumed they would use new stuff. Ugh! I guess i have to man up and try a coolant change.
Ahhhhhhh!!!
My moto life is an endless sea of frustration and dissapointment!
I just want to ride!
I got the r3 because i heard it was reliable, yet ive spent more time fixing it then riding it.馃槬
If they didn't change it I'm assuming this is 5 year old coolant? Definitely change that stuff out :)

Here's a guide on how to do it. It's pretty simple just make sure to get rid of all the air bubbles in the system.

 

Registered
Joined
196 Posts
Hey guys im here. Thanks for trying to help me out. Im so distraught that my bike is not happy. It has not been laid down since the temp increase. Not sure how to check a fan sensor, but im happy to check the radiator cap. Do i have to rip my bike apart to check these things? What does a bad radiator cap/ fan sensor look like? Im not a noob ok. Ive been riding a long time. Im just not the greatest mechanic ever. Dont judge.
To check the radiator cap, you need to remove the right side fairing. You will know its bad by looking at the spring valve on the cap. Is the valve seated all the way? Is the spring stuck? Also, please only open the cap when the engine is cold. You don't want hot coolant splashing on you as it is a pressurised system while hot.
 

Registered
Joined
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Fan turning on is normal. Is 4 bars actually over temp? Small changes in ambient temp and humidity can greatly affect radiator efficiency. Seasonal fuel mixture changes may affect peak heat generated.
Now this theory makes me feel better. 4 bars is normal? Nice!
 

Registered
Joined
108 Posts
Would a bad radiator cap cause the engine to over-heat.. or loose coolant that causes the over-heating? My understanding is the cap is designed to allow the system to build some amount of pressure, allowing the system to run hotter than normal ambient pressure, before reaching boiling temperatures.
Yes, it's 100% possible. I've had a car where the route source of the overheating was the radiator cap. And a friend's overheating issue was also fixed by replacing the radiator cap.


Fan turning on is normal. Is 4 bars actually over temp? Small changes in ambient temp and humidity can greatly affect radiator efficiency. Seasonal fuel mixture changes may affect peak heat generated.
Now this theory makes me feel better. 4 bars is normal? Nice!
xorbe is correct - it's perfectly normal to see the bars go from three to four in warmer temps or when giving the bike a good run. I've never noticed the bars go past three in the winter but it certainly goes to four during the summer when sitting in trafic. You have nothing to worry about.
 

Registered
Joined
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Yes, it's 100% possible. I've had a car where the route source of the overheating was the radiator cap. And a friend's overheating issue was also fixed by replacing the radiator cap.






xorbe is correct - it's perfectly normal to see the bars go from three to four in warmer temps or when giving the bike a good run. I've never noticed the bars go past three in the winter but it certainly goes to four during the summer when sitting in trafic. You have nothing to worry about.
My dood here.
It hot af here!
Being an action hero and all, im constantly pushing myself and Raven to our limits my man.
I checked the coolant system and all good.
I think she dont like shorty pipe.
67668
 

Super Moderator
Joined
1,351 Posts
What mods do you have on your bike? How many miles on it? Are you running the correct spec oil and filter? Many small things can contribute to what you're describing. Are there any blockages in the radiator? Even a bunch of small ones (eg bugs) could also contribute to this issue.

My suggested course of action would be as follows:

1. Ensure that there are no outstanding recalls.
2. Change your coolant as suggested
3. Change your oil. Since its really hot, make sure you run a full synthetic, maybe 10W50? Try using OEM filter if you aren't already.
4. Clean the radiator if needed.

If you do all of the above and its behaving the same way, then it's fine. To me it sounds like it's probably okay, but since you are concerned, these are the things I'd do before getting drastic like replacing the water pump.
 

Registered
Joined
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
It has mods, but no coolant related ones. 26,000 miles.
Just changed oil. Mobile full synthetic 10-40, and a wix filter( was overheating before oil change). Radiator is clean. I had 2 recalls done. I am currently researching the logistics of a coolant change.
 

Registered
Joined
259 Posts
I'd be willing to bet that is the same chemical compound as "Engine Ice".... While it's a brilliant marketing strategy, it essentially does nothing to the actually engine temps. It's a Propylene-based coolant. It gives the owner/operator the "illusion" of running cooler, while in reality, it just transfers heat less effectively than glycol-based coolants, or even water for that matter.... By that I mean, the temperature that your coolant reads is irrelevant. The actual head temperature is what REALLY matters. Our bikes are designed to run on a glycol-based coolant. If you go away from that, the "bars" you see on the gauge, are NOT accurate of the actual engine temps @ the head (the hottest part of the motor). For the record- I use "Engine Ice" in both my bikes. It satisfies most race organizations requirements for NOT running a glycol-based coolant on a track- (glycol-based coolants are slippery if "leaked" on the track surface). I feel it's better choice for me, as I don't need to drain my coolant system in the freezing winter months.

It is possible that your bike is running "hotter" because it's the "hot season"/summer. I lived in Phoenix, AZ last summer.... My FZ-07 coolant ran 10-15 degrees hotter there, than it does in Minnesota (the FZ-07 displays the actual coolant temperature, rather than "bars" like the R3 does). Since I never rode my R3 in AZ, I can't really say how many bars on the display is "normal" in a known hot area? If you're running your R3 on the street only, I'd recommend a glycol-based coolant. If it goes to four bars on the display, and the fan kicks on, AND it drops down to three bars after the fan runs- I don't think you have a cooling problem.....
 

Registered
Joined
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
Bellissima Raven is a pure street machine. I dont care if she has glycol. I havent checked the head temps. She runs 3 bars all day now. The engine feels cooler to the touch, and Raven seems much happier.
 

Registered
Joined
187 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
[QUOTE="cornerslider, post: 688221 If it goes to four bars on the display, and the fan kicks on, AND it drops down to three bars after the fan runs- I don't think you have a cooling problem.....
[/QUOTE]
Thats exactly what she used to do. If you dont think its a cooling problem, then what could it be?
 

Registered
Joined
43 Posts
[QUOTE="cornerslider, post: 688221 If it goes to four bars on the display, and the fan kicks on, AND it drops down to three bars after the fan runs- I don't think you have a cooling problem.....
Thats exactly what she used to do. If you dont think its a cooling problem, then what could it be?
[/QUOTE]

If that is what it used to do then what is the problem? That is what it is supposed to do.
 
21 - 40 of 46 Posts
Top