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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Figured it was time to start one of these, picked up my R3 back in May and have already put over 800 miles on it.
I plan to keep things pretty mild, as I only intend to ride on the street and maybe a track day here and there.
This is my first bike, but am not new to modding (see A4 build thread here).


2016 YZF-R3 Intensity White/Rapid Red





Parts Added
R6 throttle tube
Vagabond fender eliminator
Evotech passenger peg delete/hanger
Puig race style foot pegs
Puig rear tire hugger
Akrapovic GP slip-on
OEM passenger seat cowl
Shogun Frame Sliders


Down The Road
Adjustable levers
Stickier tires

Even Further Down The Road
Full exhaust and tune
Rear sets
Brake Upgrade

 

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I don't trust no cut frame sliders... They're way too weak if you go down. Spend pretty much the same price for less protection. Who cares you've cut a fairing, you may just save it as well as the bike.

 

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I don't trust no cut frame sliders... They're way too weak if you go down. Spend pretty much the same price for less protection. Who cares you've cut a fairing, you may just save it as well as the bike.

redrose, do you have any pictures of how the cut-slidders attach to the frame that is better/stronger than no-cut? I do notice the no cut look like they attach by only a single bolt to connect the puck to the plate that comes with them, not a very sturdy design obviously, I'm curious how the cut slidders are stronger
 

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redrose, do you have any pictures of how the cut-slidders attach to the frame that is better/stronger than no-cut? I do notice the no cut look like they attach by only a single bolt to connect the puck to the plate that comes with them, not a very sturdy design obviously, I'm curious how the cut slidders are stronger


If you zoom in on the first photo you can see how they attach directly onto the frame using the engine bolts and there are no additional points of weakness. The reason no cuts do a poor job isn't because it attaches with one bolt but because it adds an additional point of weakness and the travel of weight isn't efficient, so the materials need to be extremely strong to not snap. Or, nocuts get attached to weak points of the bike and are likely to snap. Since the TST cut literally go through and attach at the engine bolt it's an extremely rigid and secure part of the frame. You may be concerned that if may bend your frame however if you have an accident which would bend your frame from the impact on the slider, your bike is likely to be totalled anyway. Another reason no cuts don't always perform as well is as their positioning isn't ideal it won't protect the vital components as well as cuts. I try think of the sliders to be like bones on a human. My ribs protect my heart. But I don't necessarily find that my clavicle does a perfect job of protecting my heart if i were to have an impact on the front.



 

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yeah the bracket attachment is what I was referring to, my bike has a cage that connects at three points, engine mount bolt, the biggest bolt that holds the foot pegs on and a smaller one welded to the frame..very strong. Haven't seen much like this for the r3 but a few stunt setups i've seen compare. thanks for the info!
 
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