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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read all the chain post and have purused the net and am still not sure what to buy. Looking for a very high quality 520 drive chain for the R3, low friction high wear capiable to fit stock sprockets. Think I woulld like to use a clip on master link. Thanks JB
 

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Use a rivet link. Clip-links are for dirt bikes. Replace your sprockets when you replace the chain.
14t front, 43t rear, 520 pitch, 112 links.
 

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I have been using a clip link on my race bike with no problems.

D.I.D. makes really good chains. That is what I usually use. I have been very happy with them over the years.

Depending on your mileage, you might not need to replace your stock sprockets. Yes, the general recommendation is to replace sprockets and chain at the same time. But, if you are just looking for an aftermarket chain with really low mileage sprockets it isn't really going to hurt the chain life.

Just curious though, why do you want to change a perfectly good chain?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A few reasons maybe not real good ones. 1) Want a spare on hand 2) Im a man of small advantages (they add up) and I feel maybe a high quality chain will be just a little slicker 3)got a few bucks burning a hole in my pocket! I've heard that its not that bad to use a clip master link on "smaller bikes" When I pop my stock chain off, any ideas what to use for a future clip master link? And I did order a DID chain about 2 hrs ago. Thanks
 

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If you're looking for improvements you'll probably gain more by changing to a much lighter aluminum rear sprocket as well.
I have seen many clip links fail on R3's and ninja 300's at the race track, just ask @Aufitt
 

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Before spending money on the chain I would have put braided brake lines on and redone forks. Those will give a huge improvement in performance over the chain swap.

And yes, as stated above. Aluminum sprocket would give be the better way to go for another small improvement. I didn't mention it because they don't last nearly as long as a steel sprocket. I assumed (yeah, I know I shouldn't) you were strictly riding street. So I gave you the longevity advice over the performance advice.
 

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If you're looking for improvements you'll probably gain more by changing to a much lighter aluminum rear sprocket as well.
I have seen many clip links fail on R3's and ninja 300's at the race track, just ask @Aufitt

GoPro's are embarrassing






Now have a replacement ERT2
but this time the rivet link has arrived.
Ive not ridden since this day in December 2015.
Waiting for a black Vortex 44T.
 

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@vf215brian I agree with @Capitalview 's assessments. A nice aluminum rear sprocket will help reduce rotating mass and weight, and you'll notice faster acceleration, and like CV said, faster wear, but everything is a trade off.

As far as chains.....D.I.D. is basically considered the best, but EK is no slouch either. I really dig the new EK ThreeD. I'd either get a D.I.D. ERV3 or EK ThreeD. You can also look at D.I.D. VX series or ZVMX. THe ERV3 is considered the "race line." THe ZVMX series is the top "road sport bike series" chain, and the VX is the "econo road bike" series. AS far as the ThreeD, tt's pricey and maybe it's overkill, but hey, YOLO. ;-) If you're doing it yourself you'll need to get a nice chain riveting kit like a MotionPro unit too. If you're in a 4seasons area of the country it might be a good project to do over the winter.

Once I kill my stock sprocket and chain, I'm going with a Vortex front sprocket and Vortex rear aluminum sprocket and EK ThreeD chain, all in stock sizes. 14/43/520. I might do D.I.D. though.

The EK ThreeD chains are beautiful.


Here are some links to research:

http://threed-chains.com/html/product-catalogue/index.html

http://www.ekchain.jp/

http://www.didchain.com/
 
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