Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How do the preload settings work? Is there some guideline based on rider's weight?
The preload settings are (soft) #1 to (hard) #7 . Stock is #3 . The preload collar rotates counter-clockwise to increase the preload.
I weigh 180 pounds before gear. I wasn't happy at setting #3 . It felt like the rear end was sagging too much. A few days ago I bumped it to #4 which helped a lot. Today I bumped it to #5 and it is perfect.
I suspect in most reviews the tester has not changed the preload. The bike feels really weird to me on #3 . It is a totally different bike on #5 .
I keep a journal of the changes I make, and I only make one change at a time on the bike, so I can keep track of things.
I weigh 220 and am testing both #5 and #6Thanks. It's my first bike so I wasn't sure if making it harder would help handling on regular roads or just track. I weigh 200 so I think I will start with 5.
Once you get the pre-load at the correct setting, all should be good. No need to do anything with the front forks.So, if you change the preload setting, you should also change the front side right?
Thanks!Once you get the pre-load at the correct setting, all should be good. No need to do anything with the front forks.
The range of settings isn't great enough to mess up the handling or stability of the bike; only enough to effect how quick or slow the steering is a bit.
But dialing in the pre-load can make a world of difference in how it feels.
The only time you need to move the forks in the triple clamp is if you lower the bike in the back significantly (like 1-2 inches), and that isn't possible on the R3 without replacing the rear shock.
In this video they talk about changing the pre-load on the Aprilia Shiver and how much of a difference it made
Hope that helps.....
Link: http://racetech.com/articles/SuspensionAndSprings.htmThere is actually a procedure on how to adjust rider "sag." Its not all that complicated really, but it will involve 2 people, a tape measure and basic math skills.
I believe I am around 220 lbs with gear and backpack. I set it to 5 last night and took a short ride - it is a lot less "squigilly" (felt like it sounds) in the corners. I will do a longer ride this weekend and see how it feels, but I suspect much better. I thought I just needed to get used to the bike, but this certainly changes the ride characteristics...
I do wish the owner's manual had a little more info about the settings (maybe a weight chart) to give you something better to go on than trial and error.
No! Don't look directly at it!A quick glance shart would be nice.
6'1" 185lbs. I set mine at #5 yesterday and I could feel the difference just going in a straight line. My butt felt slightly higher up so I assume that's from less rear spring sag. I could also feel an immediate difference in the firmness of the ride and the riding position. In the corners, the extra firmness gives me more confidence. The bike seemed a little squirrelly when dipping low in the corners before. Perhaps this was due to the front end being too light?
It's amazing what a simple 15 second adjustment can do! The adjustment probably keeps the tail end about a half inch higher when loaded, but what a difference.
For those of you worrying about the difficulty level of performing this adjustment, is super simple. Just make sure you use the extension handle in the tool kit on the shock wrench. You don't need to remove anything from the bike to perform the adjustment. Make the adjustment through the opening on the right side of the bike. The hardest part of the procedure is removing the tool kit from the bottom of the pillion seat. That little elastic strap is tight!