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Some of you will be getting your bikes soon, (lucky!) so once you get a few tankfuls ran thru it post up your mileage.
I'm sure many of us present members and future potential buyers would appreciate this info.
:nerd:
 

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Yes, and don't forget to go to Fuelly.com and post the results there. Eventually, it becomes pretty clear what the mileage is, once you subtract the numbers that are just plain wrong for various reasons. 60 mpg US will be pretty close to the average.
 

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It would be better to use "non-ethanol" gasoline if you have access to it; I've been using 90 octane pure gasoline here in NW Georgia in all my vehicles for almost three years, and my mileage is better, and no problems with carbs/fuel injectors gumming up like with ethanol. I found my local stations on pure-gas.org. I also use Startron fuel treatment in my bikes, because they sit for weeks at a time. My 15-year-old lawn mower sits in the shed for 6 months, and cranks right up with one pull!
 

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It would be better to use "non-ethanol" gasoline if you have access to it; I've been using 90 octane pure gasoline here in NW Georgia in all my vehicles for almost three years, and my mileage is better, and no problems with carbs/fuel injectors gumming up like with ethanol. I found my local stations on pure-gas.org. I also use Startron fuel treatment in my bikes, because they sit for weeks at a time. My 15-year-old lawn mower sits in the shed for 6 months, and cranks right up with one pull!

Using the fuel treatment you have in motors that are sitting is something I haven't done in the past and have paid for it, it definitely goes a long way to use those treatments, cheap 'insurance'

What brand of lawn mower do you have? Honda? :D
 

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I bought the push mower at Home Depot in 2000; I think its a "Lawn Boy" or something like that--it has a Tecumseh engine, and I've only had it serviced once about 6 years ago.

As for the gas treatment, I take my 6 gallon gas can to the gas station with 2 ounces of Startron in it, so the gasoline will always be preserved. I prefer to gas up my bikes in the garage.

The AMA has loads of articles on how bad ethanol is for motorcycles (or any engine for that matter).
 

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Finally went through a Tank.
My results are:

  • 169 Miles
  • 2.8 Gallons
  • = 60.35MPG
My MPG Gauge on the bike read 57.
So pretty accurate.
Also my Empty Indicator was going off for about 20miles before I fueled up.
Gas Gauge is alittle inaccurate!!! Should be able to go over 220miles on one tank No Problem.
 

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Im getting around 52mpg to 56mpg it just al depends on rider weight outside air temp and altitude. Here where I am its about 2400ft and around 85-104 degrees in the summer and 23 degrees to 52 in the winter.
 

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Seems like Yamaha is more conservative with their mpg numbers online than Honda or Kawasaki, but follows the standard mpg of most bikes.
considering the readouts of before, when riding conservatively, the bike seems to be aimed at the 250 mile mark per tank, and would be interesting to play with the sprockets to see if it can be upped to 300miles, or a ~20% increase in gearing and fuel efficiency, just as an eco mod project.
 

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Seems like Yamaha is more conservative with their mpg numbers online than Honda or Kawasaki, but follows the standard mpg of most bikes.
considering the readouts of before, when riding conservatively, the bike seems to be aimed at the 250 mile mark per tank, and would be interesting to play with the sprockets to see if it can be upped to 300miles, or a ~20% increase in gearing and fuel efficiency, just as an eco mod project.
yeah you could reduce engine rpms for better eco around town but on the freeway you would need the extra power from the stock gearing for passing on the freeway. The best way to improve mpg is to take weight off the bike while increasing power. Light weight chain and sproket would really work wonders too!
 

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The R3 seems way overgeared stock, (usually done by factories for emissions & ride by noise standards)
putting higher gearing kills these small bikes and the single best improvement is -1 front/ +2 rear.
 

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It really depends what you want to use it for.


If you want to maximize acceleration you might be right.


If you want to maximize mpg, and bring rpms down to a minimum, while riding 35-45mph usually you'd +1t the front, and -3t the back.


Done that mod on a lot of bikes.

I highly doubt you would lug the engine with those sprocket changes, but it all depends on how you ride your bike.
I usually baby my bikes. A lot of members on ecomodder forums have reported 20-25% upgearing successfully.
Of course they're not taking those bikes to the tracks, as their main purpose for the bike is to have a good looking commuter that's both cheap, good on gas, and still can go ~110MPH top speed in 5th or 4th gear.
 

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It really depends what you want to use it for.


If you want to maximize acceleration you might be right.


If you want to maximize mpg, and bring rpms down to a minimum, while riding 35-45mph usually you'd +1t the front, and -3t the back.


Done that mod on a lot of bikes.

I highly doubt you would lug the engine with those sprocket changes, but it all depends on how you ride your bike.
I usually baby my bikes. A lot of members on ecomodder forums have reported 20-25% upgearing successfully.
Of course they're not taking those bikes to the tracks, as their main purpose for the bike is to have a good looking commuter that's both cheap, good on gas, and still can go ~110MPH top speed in 5th or 4th gear.

You wouldn't even get into top gear, let alone pull 110mph.
Check the R3/Ninja300/cbr300 dyno graph, none of those engines are happy below 5000rpm.
Best to buy a pcx125 scooter with an automatic and get 100mpg.and save the $3 per week for a coffee.
 

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It really depends what you want to use it for.


If you want to maximize acceleration you might be right.


If you want to maximize mpg, and bring rpms down to a minimum, while riding 35-45mph usually you'd +1t the front, and -3t the back.


Done that mod on a lot of bikes.

I highly doubt you would lug the engine with those sprocket changes, but it all depends on how you ride your bike.
I usually baby my bikes. A lot of members on ecomodder forums have reported 20-25% upgearing successfully.
Of course they're not taking those bikes to the tracks, as their main purpose for the bike is to have a good looking commuter that's both cheap, good on gas, and still can go ~110MPH top speed in 5th or 4th gear.
Best advice.

Finding that RPM range where you can do the commuting you need to do, keeping up with the flow of traffic, getting up to speed with them that, is the key.
 

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You wouldn't even get into top gear, let alone pull 110mph.
Check the R3/Ninja300/cbr300 dyno graph, none of those engines are happy below 5000rpm.
Best to buy a pcx125 scooter with an automatic and get 100mpg.and save the $3 per week for a coffee.

If the bike can do 116MPH in top gear, then it can do the same when you make 5th or 4th gear ratios almost identical to stock 6th gear ratio, and have 1 or 2 overdrives.


Most of the time, ptwins work ok above 3k rpm (most of them below 1500-2500RPM, they would stutter, or hesitate), and I read (but don't own the bike), that it start pulling good from 5k rpm upward.
So I understand when you say that you want to stay in those 5+k rev-ranges.



That still will be possible with a gear change!
Just not in 6th gear; but perhaps in 5th, or 4th gear.

A 125cc's top speed is around 65MPH, not 110, so while you get the MPG, you don't get the top speed.


Gearing mods can improve both top speed and MPG through choosing the right gearing;



It can:
AND get you 85+MPG (@low speeds, low RPM in final gear; eg: doing 40-45MPH @ 3-3,5k rpm in 6th)
AND get you 110+MPH (@lower gears, higher RPMs; eg: doing 110MPH @ 11k rpm in 4th gear instead of 6th).





There's only one con to this, other than having to buy new sprockets to install (and sometimes a chain as well):
Acceleration from a stand still to the powerband in first gear is slower.



All other acceleration (from 1st gear powerband onwards) to top speed should be very similar, if not faster than stock gears, (since you'd have to shift 1 or 2 gears less to get to top speed).
It all depends what kind of gearing changes are chosen for the bike.
Too much one way, or the other, is never good.
 

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140.6 miles, put in 2.748 (US) gal. Math says 51.16 mpg, meter said 50 - close enough. I'm sure it will improve when the engine is broken in (and I'm a better rider). :D

The "fuel remaining" meter is a bit iffy. Soon as the gauge started blinking, meter appeared with 0.1 miles. By the time I got to the gas station near my house it said 7.9 miles (that's about 10 miles @ 45mph, then about 4 miles of stop and go city traffic). I should have had almost a full gallon left in the tank...

I don't know what the dealer out in it, but I put 91 ron in it this time. It's two-bits more than regular, but it should make that little motor happy. I've also started a Fuelly account, and loaded the first set of data.
 
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