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A relatively cheap option for taller riders who don't want to go full rearset replacement. Looks like they haven't solved the relocated rearset/brake reservoir line crimp problem though.:D
 

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Mine will allow for a more significant change and price will be about the same or less, probably $65-$75 shipped in the US. I'm just waiting to see what the replacement shift rods will cost and I have to address the brake side since mine will move the rearset farther than these.
 

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Anyone try these yet? I'm torn as to if it's even worth getting something like woodcraft or sato on a bike I'm probably going to upgrade from. As much as I love the R3... After 1.5k miles, it gets quickly outgrown.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Anyone try these yet? I'm torn as to if it's even worth getting something like woodcraft or sato on a bike I'm probably going to upgrade from. As much as I love the R3... After 1.5k miles, it gets quickly outgrown.
Do it more inexpensively by trying these instead. $37.00 shipped. A CNC 6061 aluminum bracket is a CNC 6061 aluminum bracket and these have more options, position-wise.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111729608349?item=111729608349&viewitem=&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true

2143.JPG
 

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Anyone try these yet? I'm torn as to if it's even worth getting something like woodcraft or sato on a bike I'm probably going to upgrade from. As much as I love the R3... After 1.5k miles, it gets quickly outgrown.
I had some Yoshi brackets on my last bike and they worked great. I plan to get some for my R3 as well to go with the clip-ons that I already have. Pretty pricey though for what it is, so still deciding between these and the Driven ones. I'll even consider the Ebay ones that Fangshui noted above if someone tries it and says the quality is decent. It's a good option if you don't want to spend the money on rearsets and hate the stock position.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
They finally came in for me. Will be my first time removing, anything I need to know? Would prefer video tutorial >:D
Should be easy. On the brackets, it's just 2 bolts out (of the stock peg mounts) and 2 bolts in (on the new brackets).

Remove the stock shift rod (one end is left hand threads). Install the new shift rod. You might have to adjust the shift rod a few times to get it shifting correctly.

Then decide what position you want the pegs in and 2 more bolts in on the peg mounts (blue Locktite is recommended on all threads, except the shift rod threads, they use 2 nuts to lock them in position). Don't use the Locktite until you have tried out a few positions on the peg mount and found one you like, then just remove one bolt at a time and add the Locktite.

NOTE: before removing the peg mount, make a note (you can even mark it with tape) of the postion of the shift lever with respect to the stock peg mount. That way you can get it back into the same position later in the process.
 

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Made my own much higher/rearward, and incorporated race shift.
Managed to get 65up/85back limited by stock ABS rear brake line,
Different brake line and I'll get 75up/100 back.


 

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I'm stumped sitting here. I cant seem to get the stock pegs to fit in any way. Let's start with the first question. The direction the playe shohld be going towards is the tail light? Or the rear wheel?
 

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I'm stumped sitting here. I cant seem to get the stock pegs to fit in any way. Let's start with the first question. The direction the playe shohld be going towards is the tail light? Or the rear wheel?
Towards the taillight.

In the photo up above in this thread of the plates the plate shown on the right goes on the left side of the R3. The machined grooves should face outward (away from the bike).

The two holes in the plate line up with the holes in the frame where the stock peg mounts were.

Then the stock peg mounts go on top of the plates in any of the 4 possible positions.

See Aufitt's photo. This is how they should also look.....
 
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