[marcparnes]

I'm kind of surprised but my original chain at 10K has to be replaced. While checking it for adjustment I noticed some kinked links and quite a bit of tight/loose along its length. I also checked the length between 15 links and it is right at the speced max. The rear sprocket is not hooked and I kept it adjusted and lubed so I'm just chalking it up to cheap parts. I just ordered a RK kit part# 4037-150E which includes the 520XSO chain and standard steel sprockets. Internet pricing runs around $135. I sure would've thought it would go 20K. Oh well..

Marc

 

[Kojiiro]

How was your maintenance on it? On the last 650 I owned, I neglected that chain and it was beat by the time I sold the bike (~12-13k miles). Chains can be expected to do many more miles than that, provided you do the proper maintenance.

 

[marcparnes]

As I mentioned, I lubed it after every ride which are about 350 miles per. Kept it adjusted at 35-45 mm. Just pulled it. Front sprocket is worn more than the rear. The pin I removed has a bit of the case hardening worn off but more important its dry as a bone!

Marc

 

[Stirz]

I you wouldn't keep it pinned all the time, the chain would last longer.


10K seems on the short end of chain life though, especially since you tried to keep on top of it.

 

[marcparnes]

If you wouldn't keep it pinned all the time, the chain would last longer.

That's what I was thinking... >

Marc

 

[RidingRonin]

I changed mine recently, at 13k. They're probably pretty cheap as standard. I adjusted it every week pretty much, lubed twice a week and every time of taking it in the rain. Since having the new chain (gold DID) I've adjusted it once and that was the initial bed in. Probably done 1k on it now.

I found that my chain stretched a fair amount, but had no tight spots until right at the end of it's life. Rear sprocket was pretty worn.

 

[Marcc]

Mine R3 came with a DID chain and I just adjusted it once because it came with a bad clearance from de dealer. I lub it each 500km with Wurth Sabesto liquid grease. Until now, with 2500km, no more adjust was needed.

But the life of a chain depends a lot of how you drive the bike. If you always make 0-60 in 7 seconds, the chain will down really quickly, this is normal.

 

[Stirz]

I changed mine recently, at 13k. They're probably pretty cheap as standard. I adjusted it every week pretty much, lubed twice a week and every time of taking it in the rain. Since having the new chain (gold DID) I've adjusted it once and that was the initial bed in. Probably done 1k on it now.

I found that my chain stretched a fair amount, but had no tight spots until right at the end of it's life. Rear sprocket was pretty worn.

This is good information - we'll see what happens as more 'data points' develop as folks start hitting 10K or so.

 

[Rob R3]

My chain is up for replacement as well. Sitting right at 10,000 miles. What's the best chain for the R3s, with the bike's intended use mainly being street? Also, should I invest in new sprockets as well?

 

[Stirz]

Maybe worth mentioning - the stock chain (at least mine) has no master link, so you'll either have to cut it off (angle grinder with cut-off wheel works great), or grind down one of the pins and use a chain-breaker to get it off (which was my approach).

 

[CBRpilot]

Also, should I invest in new sprockets as well?

ALWAYS. It's a set. New chain and sprockets.