[Dreadwil]

I'm looking at doing a bit of preventative maintenance at 22,000kms by replacing my chain and front and rear sprockets. I'll be keeping the same tooth numbers and chain length which is 14T front, 43T rear and 112 chain links.

Buying OEM parts is a rip off so I'm currently looking at this kit, which includes the following for $137.74 NZD:

• 14T Front Sprocket - SPF43814C
• 43T Rear Sprocket - SPR50443C
• 112 Link RK Chain - RKP520SOX112

Does anybody have any experience with this brand? Pros Cons? My understanding is that it will be the same, if not better than OEM quality.

 

[kj7687]

I've ordered so many chains and sprockets over the years; I can't remember for sure if I ever used RK stuff, but most likely, I have. It is a major, well known brand and should not generally give you any issues. These components are fairly simple, so there's not a lot that should go wrong with any of it -- assuming it's installed correctly and all that. Personally, I like to know as much info as possible about any product I order (e.g. the tensile strength), and this kit doesn't list much. That said, again, if you're not obsessive compulsive and don't care all THAT much, it will all be just fine...

I don't see any info listed about the master-link type, so I assume the chain probably comes with a clip-type link. I'm not a big fan of those, but they do work. My favorite is the EK screw-type. Second choice would be a rivet-type. Clip-type if I have to... If you do get a clip type and this is your first time installing one, just make sure that the "head" of the "fish" (the side clip for the master link) is "swimming" forward (with the normal rotation of the sprockets / motion of the chain; the two "fins" being on the back end during normal movement of the clip.

 

[airhead83]

RK is one of the leading manufacturers in the industry, and is used interchangeably as OEM components on some metric bikes. Suzuki actually list in new bike specs either a "RK520 or DID520 chain" as OEM. I also notice in your link to the kit you're looking at, they have the RK description as an "O-ring" which is also comparable to the R3's OEM specs.
I have a link below, just to show RK is used in other similar "kits" from vendors. If you click on and scroll down the selection for chains, you'll see RK in there with the other major manufacturers.
Vortex 520 Steel Sprocket And Chain Kit | MotoSport
I'll also mention a word of caution.. That protective 3 piece (parts # 11,12,13) 'ring' in the R3's schematic for rear wheel... IS SHARP and will slice the end of your finger off, if you're not careful! The good part is it's sharp enough I didn't feel any pain.. until a few hours afterwards.
Yamaha OEM Motorcycle Parts | MotoSport

 

[privilege15]

The chain master link clip type should be fine on R3 as the bike isn't that powerful. I wouldn't install such on an R6 or an R1 that's for sure.

 

[Dreadwil]

Thanks for the feedback guys. The info about the different master links is interesting so I've done a bit of research on that.

Unfortunately the RK kit I linked seems to be unavailable nation wide but my local shop can get one in for me by the end of the month. He said if I'm in a hurry I could go with a more expensive combo of JT Sprockets - $25 NZD for the front, $62.80 for the rear and $109 for the chain (no part numbers supplied).

Does anyone have experience with JT sprocket and chains? I would hope it would be much better considering that would cost me $196 NZD compared to the $138 RK kit.

 

[TiengNguyen]

Just purchased myself Vortex Chain & Sprocket Kit as a direct replacement without needing a Speedo Healer. Nothing hard core just basic maintenance and replacing from OEM.

 

[Dee Loke]

I'm looking at doing a bit of preventative maintenance at 22,000kms by replacing my chain and front and rear sprockets. I'll be keeping the same tooth numbers and chain length which is 14T front, 43T rear and 112 chain links.

Buying OEM parts is a rip off so I'm currently looking at this kit, which includes the following for $137.74 NZD:

• 14T Front Sprocket - SPF43814C
• 43T Rear Sprocket - SPR50443C
• 112 Link RK Chain - RKP520SOX112

Does anybody have any experience with this brand? Pros Cons? My understanding is that it will be the same, if not better than OEM quality.

RK chains & sprockets are generally fine as they're made in Japan quality. Just changed mine 2 months ago. My bike clocked at 43,000km before i saw some wear in the links.

 

[Dreadwil]

I've ended up ordering the RK kit. Thanks guys!

 

[WedgeSG]

Slight tangent on this topic...several inquiries actually, hoping some here will share some experiences or information on:
1. If your stock front sprkt, rear sprkt, and chain have less than 1100 miles can you change in a rear sprocket and expect the other stock parts to still play nice together for a long time.
2. While a “safety” item, has anyone here, or someone you know of, really ever spoken of the chain drop rings on the sprocket saving the day, bike, bacon, or butt for them ? In particular on a small displacement motorcycle?
3. Since rotational mass is one of the best locations to gain acceleration...assuming a hybrid (steel teeth/aluminum center) sprocket weighs about half of the steel stock part...does anyone know if changing only this component will result in seat of the pants recognizable performance improvement?
Thanx in advance,
wedgeSG

 

[Dreadwil]

1. It's not recommended (as you know). I'd be less concerned about wear at 1100 miles and more concerned about aftermarket sprocket teeth that can and do differ in shape to OEM teeth.

 

[Dreadwil]

Just a question. Will I need a chain breaker tool and will the RK chain most likely come as a complete circuit? Might be a dumb question, but I can remove the chain without breaking it when removing the the whole wheel

The RK chain and sprockets kit has arrived so I'm looking at getting them installed this weekend!

 

[Dreadwil]

Thought I'd give an update as I ended up carrying out the sprocket and chain replacement a couple of weeks ago. The chain was looking a bit old and some of the links weren't straightening out so it was definitely in need of it. Below are some satisfying before and after pics and a few comments on issues I ran into and some tricks that I used which might help others who are looking at replacing theirs.

Overall it wasn't a difficult job. For comparison I found installing the full exhaust, filter, and block off plate trickier. It was also nice and satisfying deep cleaning things as I went and torqueing everything to spec!

Kinky

I borrowed an impact socket wrench and a breaker bar in anticipation of the front sprocket being on extremely tight from the factory, but frighteningly it was on so loose I could probably have removed it with my hands, so it might be worth people checking theirs.

Before

After

Old vs New

Before

After

To remove the OEM chain, I angle grinded off the end of a pin and then pushed it through with a chain breaker. This was a bit of a struggle due to using a cheap ebay breaker tool. I didn't have a proper tool to press the new chain link back together to be able to slide the clip on. My solution was to use a G clamp and press down on a nut over each pin which worked great.

New chain and link

New chain!

 

[kj7687]

High-five for properly torqueing your fasteners LOL!

I have used large bolt cutters to remove a chain before. It works haha.