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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Question for all you guys racing the R3's....what are you using for ride height, especially on the front? I plan on getting an Ohlins shock with adjustable height, on which I will likely max out the height to get more ground clearance. But what about the front height? How many mm above the triple clamp do you guys have your forks set at? Or are they flush with the clamp? Part of this will also determine if my clip-ons will go above or under the clamp, which may or may not cause issues with them hitting the fairings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Nobody? Where's all the racers at? :)
 

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Stock height. gives you dive clearance on the forks, peg exhaust clearance at lean in the rear. Going lower prevents your bike to use the suspension geometry in its sweet spot. I need peg risers, i keep scraping my toe sliders because i can't get my shorty legs off the seat enough to get my knee down. so close. I did not lower it.

 

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I'm running the forks with 15mm of the tube above the triple. Forks are set up with a damper rods and gold valves from Traxxion Dynamics; shock is one of Jesse's rebuilt R6 shocks. Springs are for a 220 lb rider (I'm a big girl). I'm also on Bridgestone S20s in stock size. I'm not racing, nor am I near that pace, but it is a dedicated track bike. I believe most running race rubber in 120/150 are dropping the front.

You might want to contact Greg (www.spearsenterprises.com) or Jesse (www.yamahar3racing.com) for better info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm running the forks with 15mm of the tube above the triple. Forks are set up with a damper rods and gold valves from Traxxion Dynamics; shock is one of Jesse's rebuilt R6 shocks. Springs are for a 220 lb rider (I'm a big girl). I'm also on Bridgestone S20s in stock size. I'm not racing, nor am I near that pace, but it is a dedicated track bike. I believe most running race rubber in 120/150 are dropping the front.

You might want to contact Greg (www.spearsenterprises.com) or Jesse (www.yamahar3racing.com) for better info.
Thanks! Good point on the tires. You just reminded me that I need to find or take measurements of the tires that I'll be running and compare to the stock ones. That will give me a better idea of how the geometry will change and then adjust height based on that. I will be running 120/150 Pirelli SC most likely.
 

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120/150 ? dangit! I got Rosso II's in stock size. I will try these new specs out as soon as I wear this set out in April. Ride safe!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
120/150 ? dangit! I got Rosso II's in stock size. I will try these new specs out as soon as I wear this set out in April. Ride safe!
Don't really have many options. From what I saw on Pirelli's site, they do make a 110 Supercorsa, but they recommend that for a 3" rim, not 3.5". The 120 is what they recommend for the 3.5" so I'll go with that. And for the rear they only have a 150/60 for the Supercorsa that they recommend for 4.0" wheels. Only other option is a 160/60 but that's a bit too big. I'll end up using that for the rains since they don't make a 150 rain tire.
 

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I was running 110F/150Rear Pirelli superCorsa last year. With that combo, front was lowered ~5mm, rear was raised 6mm for couple of the tracks with longer more throttle corners. For track with tighter turns, I was lowering the front some more, by 3mm more

Geometry really depends on nature of track, riding style. Start from stock settings, and vary from there. Dont turn any clickers other than sag setting and preload (also ride height adjustment) first. Set geometry, then play around with rebound/compression settings.

I'll be switching to Bridgestone this year as they pay contingency even in novice classes
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was running 110F/150Rear Pirelli superCorsa last year. With that combo, front was lowered ~5mm, rear was raised 6mm for couple of the tracks with longer more throttle corners. For track with tighter turns, I was lowering the front some more, by 3mm more

Geometry really depends on nature of track, riding style. Start from stock settings, and vary from there. Dont turn any clickers other than sag setting and preload (also ride height adjustment) first. Set geometry, then play around with rebound/compression settings.

I'll be switching to Bridgestone this year as they pay contingency even in novice classes
****, so you lowered the front quite a bit. Do you not have any clearance issues, scraping pegs/levers on the ground in the turns? That is the main problem I have on my 500, and I know most little bikes are similar. What shock do you have on and assuming it's adjustable, what's the adjustability range relative to stock height?

Thought about the bridgestones too for the same reason you mentioned, but I didn't think they make any race tires in a size that would work for this. What tires will you be running?
 

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****, so you lowered the front quite a bit. Do you not have any clearance issues, scraping pegs/levers on the ground in the turns? That is the main problem I have on my 500, and I know most little bikes are similar. What shock do you have on and assuming it's adjustable, what's the adjustability range relative to stock height?

Thought about the bridgestones too for the same reason you mentioned, but I didn't think they make any race tires in a size that would work for this. What tires will you be running?
I have Woodcraft rearsets, so far, no clearance issue. Closest I've gotten to scraping was the shifter toe peg...maybe....just from looking at the pics. I hang off the bike enough so lean angles aren't that great to have clearance issues.

I have Ohlins rear shock (think 10mm adjustability, guessing +-5mm?) and Andreani cartridge kit in forks with 0.95 springs I think

Other racer I know also has lowered the front a lot, with his own home made rearset relocator and no clearance issue as well (he's fast enough to be expert top 5 in AFM)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have Woodcraft rearsets, so far, no clearance issue. Closest I've gotten to scraping was the shifter toe peg...maybe....just from looking at the pics. I hang off the bike enough so lean angles aren't that great to have clearance issues.

I have Ohlins rear shock (think 10mm adjustability, guessing +-5mm?) and Andreani cartridge kit in forks with 0.95 springs I think

Other racer I know also has lowered the front a lot, with his own home made rearset relocator and no clearance issue as well (he's fast enough to be expert top 5 in AFM)
Good to know, thanks! Also, are you using rear set relocator brackets with the Woodcrafts or not?
 

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I can't remember if my front is 25 or 35mm through the top triple tree, no clearance issues at all with the rear lifted and aftermarket rearsets
 

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im thinking about dropping the forks about 10mm an running a 120/60/17 front an 160/60/17 rear an doing rearsets just havent decided on which one yet
 
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