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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How are you guys doing this? I did the rear but Im not really excited about it.



The front nut doesnt have anything to secure wire to, so Im thinking about getting slotted nuts and drilling holes in the axle and using a clip to keep the nut from backing off. Just trying to get an idea of other options.
Thanks!
 

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Drill a hole in the axle, no need to drill the nut. Worst case scenario is the nut loosens a turn and the chain is out of alignment by 1mm, the brakes will still function
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought about that too, but Ill more than likely go with what I have on my SV. Same basic concept...

 

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Can someone explain the point of this to me? I've heard of safety wire but never really understood the point. Is it to prevent a bolt from vibrating off, or from getting lost if it does vibrate off or what?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Can someone explain the point of this to me? I've heard of safety wire but never really understood the point. Is it to prevent a bolt from vibrating off, or from getting lost if it does vibrate off or what?
Basically, to make sure the bolts dont fall out. If you wire them the right way, when a bolt starts to back out, whatever its secured to will keep it from coming all the way off.

Sometimes people forget to tighten a bolt or a nut. It happens. You just dont want an axle/caliper/oil drain plug/etc. coming out at 100mph because the nut backed off. :eek:
 

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How are you guys doing this? I did the rear but Im not really excited about it.



The front nut doesnt have anything to secure wire to, so Im thinking about getting slotted nuts and drilling holes in the axle and using a clip to keep the nut from backing off. Just trying to get an idea of other options.
Thanks!
I drilled the front the same way, wired it to the bottom caliper bolt since you'll be removing that wire any time you change the front tire anyway.
 

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I'm not a fan of the R clips though, meets the rules but provides much less tension against nuts backing off. Really, 90% of the reason for wiring is a visual confirmation that you've tightened the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm not a fan of the R clips though, meets the rules but provides much less tension against nuts backing off. Really, 90% of the reason for wiring is a visual confirmation that you've tightened the nut.
Yeah I get that, I like the ease of it from an endurance standpoint. Doing a tire change and having to rewire the nuts takes way too long.

I'm going to guess that your chain is way too tight just looking at those adjusters...it it's not smiling it's not happy...
I have a 40 tooth rear sprocket on there, making the adjusters stick out kinda far. I like my chain pretty loose too
 

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Hey there my opinion pin is enough on axel for easier tire change and saftey wire should go to a bolt on frame or motor that you dont remove often or at all and question about your sprocket choice im running a 45 rear and stock front at the track it helps wirh punch out of corner (mostly wide open anyway) and getting 116 on back stretch i would make sure its not messing with transmission gear ratio let me know enjoy
 

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I'm jealous that your region still has an active Endurance scene... If WERA had the schedule it did 10-15 years ago I'd run nothing but endurance (probably on an SV or FZ07). We went to NOLA last year on my friends 675, long haul...and hated the track.
 

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...question about your sprocket choice im running a 45 rear and stock front at the track it helps wirh punch out of corner (mostly wide open anyway) and getting 116 on back stretch i would make sure its not messing with transmission gear ratio let me know enjoy

Don't remember stock rear size, but if you're running anything shorter you realize you're not really going 116MPH right? As long as you're not running into the limiter on the straight or past peak power too early...if the gearing works for you then it's not hurting anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm jealous that your region still has an active Endurance scene... If WERA had the schedule it did 10-15 years ago I'd run nothing but endurance (probably on an SV or FZ07). We went to NOLA last year on my friends 675, long haul...and hated the track.
Yeah, Ive always sprint raced and did endurance here and there for fun. Last year I sprinted my SV and did lightweight endurance on a CBR250R. I won 2 championships on the SV, but I had more fun on the 250. Decided to concentrate on only lightweight endurance this year.

I did NOLA last year. Yeah, long drive. We go there in June, so its like 95 degrees with 23497862394762879% humidity. Besides the track being super flat, I liked it. I left there knowing I could have gone faster, but I just couldnt put all the corners together. That front straightaway is no joke either. Especially on my Grom! I think I took 2 naps between the last corner and turn 1 :D
 

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I thought about that too, but Ill more than likely go with what I have on my SV. Same basic concept...

This is how I did mine. Even if you don't have tension on the R clip the bolt can't back out that far because of the castle nuts design. The wire is just there to keep track of the R clip so you don't lose it when changing the tire.

I still need to get a castle nut for the front axle. It is a weird size so I have to order it online. I do have the axle nut drilled and use safety wire for now. No R clip. there. That is to risky, IMO, since there is no, to little, tension on the R clip.
 

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hi everyone,

Old thread I know but I'd like to share how I did it on my R3... EDIT - Oh, I see that Dav810 has already mentioned this! I'll leave my post as I've included part numbers and photos for those who are interested and would like to use this method....

I used to race Ninja 250s and used spring clips to secure the OEM castellated nuts on the front and rear axles -- they're M14 and M16 respectively, both 1.5 mm pitch. Our R3s use the same axle size and thread pitch!

I ordered OEM '08+ Ninja 250 axle nuts, Kawasaki part numbers 92015-1765 and 92015-1947; also washers 410AA1400 and 92022-1916 Drilled a 3/32" hole in both axles and secured with a spring clip. Very clean solution :)

69028

69029


As the OEM Kawasaki parts do not have any markings, I assume that standard medium grade castellated nuts will suffice; in fact, the M16 nut that I picked up at Ace Hardware looks identical in dimensions and finish to the OEM Kawasaki part (they didn't have the M14 in the correct 1.5 mm pitch; only 2.0 mm).

McMaster-Carr also has these nuts under part numbers 93760A127 (M14-1.5) and 93760A128 (M16-1.5).

I've also seen the M14-1.5 castellated nuts in titanium from various online vendors if you desire lightweight bling!

Obviously I will not assume any liability if your wheels fall off... ;-)

Good luck,
Bob
 
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