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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Use guide at your own risk.
May cause damage to seals & internal engine components. Use this guide at your own risk.

This guide was written as a response to a member's oil draining pitch black (unchanged motor oil for an undetermined length of riding) and subsequently suspecting timing chain "hiss" or "whine" (among other like lack of oil delivery from sludge).

Here is my attempt to help you clean any muck out of your crankcase with a sea foam crankcase treatments.

The guide starts by suggesting what parts you should buy before starting the processes herein; guide assumes you have basic tools to work on your bike. Refer to Norton-Motorsports.com oil change guide here, in case you need help identifying the tools will need for this job.

The process consists of performing the following steps:
  • Purchase a 16oz can of SeaFoam (don't actually spend more than $8.00 on a can of Sea Foam. This picture (below) is merely to show you the description and picture of the product.
  • Purchase one Yamaha YZF-R3 oil filters (K&N or OEM) (verify model fitment with your bike), and one gallon jug of Yamaha 10w-40 motor oil
  • Purchase a small box of crush washers (when you follow the McMaster.com link, it will appear as nothing is happening; allow the site a few seconds and wait for the 25ct. M12 copper washers product page to load
Then, I would run through this process to clean out the potential sludge buildup inside the motor. To get help on changing the oil, refer to Norton-Motorsport's guide here. Refer to your Service Manual (if you're so inclined) about the complete oil change process for more information.
  • First check to see if your current oil level is within spec by lifting your bike off its stand and checking the sight glass after the bike has been off for at least 20 minutes
    • I do this by kneeling on the right side of the bike, grabbing a handful of front brake and simultaneously lifting the bike off of the kickstand and leaning over to check the sight glass for oil level
  • Add 2 ounces (56mL) to the crankcase (put it where your oil cap screws into)
  • Ride for 50mi (80km) (don't stress the motor at this time)
  • Drain the oil, unscrew & discard the oil filter
  • Using a new oil drain plug washer, reinstall and hand-snug the oil drain plug (don't overtighten the oil drain plug)
  • Fill a new oil filter up half way and screw it on
    • To thread it safely, press it up to the thread on the motor and turn it counter-clockwise until the lip of thread reseats, then hand-snug the oil filter on (don't overtighten the oil filter)
  • Fill 2.2qts (2,1l) of Yamalube 10w-40
  • Allow the bike to idle for five to ten minutes and shut it off
    • After five minutes, check the oil sight glass to ensure proper oil level
  • Ride to the next oil change interval (about 3,000mi (4,800km)) and perform the usual oil change
As an alternative, you can quite easily add 2oz (50mL) of SeaFoam to your crankcase 50mi (80km) before each scheduled oil change. This alternative will work especially well if you have a shop perform oil changes for you.

Just be sure not to forget to change the oil while the seafoam is inside the crankcase; overtime, it breaks down the chemical compounds in oil (it is used to dissolve sludge, after all).

Leaving SeaFoam in the crankcase long-term will also gunk up your oil filter, thereby reducing oil flow, thereby restricting lubrication, causing friction, which damages the motor, etc.

This concludes the SeaFoam crankcase sludge solution
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
SeaFoam's recommendation is not to exceed one treatment per oil change interval. This is the reason I mention "Use guide at your own risk." at the beginning.

Add one ounce of Sea Foam Motor Treatment for every quart of oil in the crankcase. When ready, remove oil filler cap and pour the recommended amount of Sea Foam directly into the engine crankcase. Do not exceed one treatment per oil change interval.
How to add Sea Foam Motor Treatment to crankcase oil
I am also unaware of the effects of SeaFoam on clutch components; as the YZF-R3 uses a wet clutch (the motor oil also lubricates the clutch, which is also why regular motor oil should never be used for the YZF-R3).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
As an example for what to expect on your crankcase treatment, I took a picture of my truck draining oil after 200mi. As an additional note, I change my oil at regular intervals.



If you're running through the process, you should ride no more than 50mi, as the motorcycle runs on high compression, and its oil also lubricates the clutch discs.

Ride a max of 50mi before draining. Seafoam recommends no more than one treatment per oil change interval; it's up to you to make that call.
 

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I wouldn't put SeaFoam anywhere near a newer vehicle. If you need to do this to your R3 then there has been some serious lack of correct maintenance during its lifetime. The recommended Oil and Filter changes at the correct intervals is all you need, unless you're adding sugar to your engine at the same time.
 

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If you're to the point you need to use seafoam you should be tearing the engine apart and cleaning it manually.
 
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