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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The first thing I noticed back in April when I bought my R3 was the big air gap between the solo cover and the tail section; it was, and has been very difficult to get it to latch as well. Many have complained here about the gap and the trouble with latching the cover. During a 265 mile ride a few weeks ago, with a big problem trying to latch the solo cover after lunch (putting wallet back), even using both hands in a "CPR" thrust, it just didn't want to latch. It finally did, but the rest of the ride I kept reaching back to see if it was still there.

Okay, the next day I studied the latch mechanism and the solo cover brackets, and arrived at a solution that we can all do for free in about 30 minutes. I lowered the rear of the solo cover down to about half a millimeter above the tail section. Here is the "before"shot showing the gap, and the "after" shot; I didn't want the cover to rub my expensive Colorite paint off the tail section, hence the.5mm lift.

Step 1. Remove the cover and remove the three phillips screws that hold the latch plate in place. (I re-purposed the tool pouch holding location for my bug cleaner kit).
Step 2. Remove the rubber bumpers from the bracket by carefully pushing in the conical posts through the holes.
Step 3. With a razor blade, slice off the three rings from the bumpers; this is about half the thickness. I cut off 4.5mm thickness from mine.

At this point, take the latch plate and place it on the bike as if it were attached to the cover. The nuts holding the latch mechanism to the bike's frame are in the way of the plate, so the plate needs to be filed for clearance.

Step 4. With a file or dremel, remove just enough metal to allow the plate to sit down around the nuts. My work is indicated here with the blue tape next to the filing:

Once the plate clears the hex nuts, set the plate aside, and you will need to remove the nuts, then push the threaded posts down and out from under the frame. the cable is still attached, so the space will be tight to work in. Lower the latch mechanism with a flat washer and a rubber washer on each threaded post.

Step 5. After getting the posts out of their holes, add a flat washer, then a rubber washer to each post. re-insert the posts back up through the holes, and tighten nuts until you feel resistance.

Step 6. Re-insert the rubber bumpers into the latch plate, and re-install the plate back into the solo cover with the 3 phillips screws,

Step 7. Put the solo cover in place, and push down until the cover clicks into place. WAIT! The purpose of the rubber washers sandwiched between the metal washers and the bottom of the frame is to have a slight adjustment capability in the ease of latching the cover: the tighter you crank the hex nuts, the more the latch "tongue" is raised as the rubber is squished. You shouldn't have to push terribly hard to latch the cover. Try adjusting the nuts before breaking your cover by pushing down too hard. The washers I used are: rubber=5/64" (2.1mm) thick with 3/4" (19mm) outside/5/16" (8mm) inside. Metal=1/16" (1.8mm) thick with 5/8" (16mm) outside, 5/16" inside.

Another adjustment AFTER fiddling with the washer system would be to file a bit from the latch plate where the tongue engages, or cut more rubber off the bumpers. Mine worked out perfectly as shown, your results may vary.

This resulted in a cleaner look, and a much easier task of latching the cover. Hope this has helped at least one other person.
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