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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone tell me what master link to order to reinstall my 2015 factory chain? The chain has DID 520 VF on it. ( My chian has 1700 miles on it.) Cant seem to find the info on the net. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I just did that today(no pun intended). They say "no after market link fits,must contact local dealer". Ebay has a master link labeled DID 520VF, but it is supposed to only fit the OEM chains of the Honda cbr250 and 300 and maybe another small Honda. I wonder,are all DID 520VF chains the same? If so it would fit my OEM R3 chain? Also emailed them back requesting a part number.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
DID seems first class!

From 3rd email question to them, they said they are sure that the Honda part (master link DID 520VF for CBR300 and some other smaller Hondas,can be found on ebay searching "DID 520VF master link) is the link I need to reinstall the factory chain. Thanks JB
 

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So my master link came out a few weeks ago. I replaced it with a new one about 2 weeks ago that had the retainer clip. a few days ago came home and the clip was missing again. So now I am in the process of looking for a riveted master link for a D.I.D. 520VO. Question is, has anyone had any luck finding a rivet link for this chain?
 

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Just put a new chain on. The oem isn't a high end chain anyways.
 
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I was under the impression that D.I.D. was on the top of the list in the chain category. And besides, that was what was on the bike from the factory, so that's what I replaced it with.
 

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I was under the impression that D.I.D. was on the top of the list in the chain category. And besides, that was what was on the bike from the factory, so that's what I replaced it with.
At least on MY own R3, the OEM o-ring chain that Yamaha provided has been EXCELLENT. It has gone, so far, about 8000 km = 5000 miles without even needing an adjustment. I just clean it with Kerosene and then lube it with Dupont Chain Saver aerosol lubricant, every 800km = 500 miles. It IS a riveted chain - no master link. Unless you have the right chain breaking tool and riveting tool, and KNOW how to use them both properly, you need your dealer to do the install. A master link is too weak for this bike - suitable only for smaller displacement, lower powered bikes.

Jim G
 

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At least on MY own R3, the OEM o-ring chain that Yamaha provided has been EXCELLENT. It has gone, so far, about 8000 km = 5000 miles without even needing an adjustment. I just clean it with Kerosene and then lube it with Dupont Chain Saver aerosol lubricant, every 800km = 500 miles. It IS a riveted chain - no master link. Unless you have the right chain breaking tool and riveting tool, and KNOW how to use them both properly, you need your dealer to do the install. A master link is too weak for this bike - suitable only for smaller displacement, lower powered bikes.

Jim G
JIm, silly question I guess on what should be straight forward. But can you simplify what procedures you go through to properly clean the chain. I make a monstrous mess the way I'm doing it. :eek:
 

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JIm, silly question I guess on what should be straight forward. But can you simplify what procedures you go through to properly clean the chain. I make a monstrous mess the way I'm doing it. :eek:
I've already done this on a couple other threads here, but here, in more detail, is what I do every 800 km = 500 miles, or right after I wash the bike:

- Have the bike on the rear stand

- Place an entire SECTION of old newspaper, or a plastic trash bag, under the bike, to protect the garage floor and the rear stand, running from over the crossbar on the rear stand all the way to slightly beyond the countershaft sprocket location. This keeps the kerosene, chain dirt, and aerosol lubricant I will be using from fouling the garage floor. I keep a pile of old newspapers for this very purpose

- Clean the chain using Kerosene and a chain brush. The chain brush does 3 sides of the chain at the same time, so I do those 3 sides in one pass, then one more pass to get the 4th side. I do a "section" of the chain at a time and then rotate the rear wheel to get the next section in place, accessible from the bottom run between the rear sprocket and the countershaft sprocket. I dip the brush in a small ("one cleaning session" size) reusable glass jar filled with kerosene, between doing each section of the chain. This ensures that I am cleaning each section with CLEAN kerosene and CLEAN brush. I have a tiny piece of masking tape on one link which lets me know when I have done the whole chain. I rotate the rear wheel to expose the next unwashed section of the chain on the bottom run. I hold a stiff piece of approx 12" x 16" cardboard (plywood would also work and won't get soft with use) between the chain and the rear wheel to keep the Kerosene and chain gunk from spraying onto the wheel while I am brushing the chain

- After finishing cleaning the chain with kerosene, I throw away that session's kerosene (fresh kerosene in the glass jar each session)

- Dry the chain with paper toweling, to remove the kerosene before applying the lubricant

- Apply (aerosol) Dupont Chain Saver to ONLY the gap between the inner and outer sideplates, at the TOP (not bottom) of each roller (so the lubricant flows DOWN into the chain). I do this by pressing the spray button for only a fraction of a second at each inner sideplate/outersideplate, and let the frothy lubricant penetrate downward between the sideplates. "A little bit is all you need". I am holding that cardboard shield with my other hand to keep the sprayed lubricant from being able to foul the wheel. I do this, just like with the Kerosene cleaning, until that bright piece of masking tape appears again so that I know I have done the entire chain (and have done each section only ONCE! :) ).

- Once done, LEAVE the bike UNridden for at least 3 hours to let the lubricant "dry". If you ride sooner than that, the lubricant might "fly off" the chain due to centrifugal force and "decorate" the rear wheel you had just washed.

This all does not take very long once you have done it a few times.

Works for me . . .

Jim G
 

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FWIW, I read once of an off road tour operator in Baja with a fleet of 20 DRZ400s. He beat them to death. He did no chain maintenance other than a weekly spray of WD40. When I was riding a Kawasaki Versys, there was a Canadian rider who often times posted that he had 64,000 km on the factory chain before he replaced it. No maintenance other than a weekly brush and spray with WD40. The Versys motor is a torque beast.

Personally, I find chain lube cheap, so I hedge my bets and brush/spray the chain about every 1000 miles roughly. My routine is simple, warm up the chain with a brisk ride, put the bike on a stand, run the motor in first gear and brush it good with some WD40, dry the chain with a rag, and then apply a chain lube.

I don't bother changing out a chain based on mileage. I just wait until I notice that I have to adjust it more frequently. Once the chain reaches the point that I am adjusting it every couple of weeks, then I know it is toast.

A properly installed universal master link is plenty strong for the R3s. Usually when someone has had a problem with a universal link it is because they had a couple of beers and installed the final clip backwards.
 

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A properly installed universal master link is plenty strong for the R3s. Usually when someone has had a problem with a universal link it is because they had a couple of beers and installed the final clip backwards.

This ^
 

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run the motor in first gear and brush it good with some WD40, dry the chain with a rag, and then apply a chain lube.

Anyone reading this, please do not clean your chain while the bike is on and in gear. Throw out the common sense and your bound to get hurt.
 
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