Yamaha R3 Forums banner
101 - 120 of 147 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Great, thank you jbluetooth and Braunbear for your input, it's greatly appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
One more question for you guys: I see Braunbear decided not to raise the fork tubes, as jbluetooth suggested in an earlier post. Are there any concerns with the Vortex clamp not sitting flush with the top of the fork tubes?
 

·
r3-forums.com Vendor
Joined
·
780 Posts
Yikes, I didn't notice that until you pointed it out. I strongly recommend against doing that. The Vortex clamp is relieved in the middle so it only clamps at the top and bottom. It's only 2 extra bolts per side to loosen the triple clamps and slide the fork through a tiny bit to be sure it clamps properly. It's your steering controls, do you really want to risk something moving or coming loose? There's detailed instructions on my page here to help install these and move the forks so the clipons clamp fully:


http://www.yamahar3racing.com/2015/07/finally-lower-clipons-that-fit-well-vortex-clipons-vs-stock/

Also, if you have decided on the Vortex, I sell them and would really appreciate your business. Here's the link, I always maintain the lowest price Vortex will allow me to advertise and offer free shipping:
http://www.yamahar3racing.com/product/vortex-racing-clip-ons-41mm/


Cheers,
Jesse
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Yikes, I didn't notice that until you pointed it out. I strongly recommend against doing that. The Vortex clamp is relieved in the middle so it only clamps at the top and bottom. It's only 2 extra bolts per side to loosen the triple clamps and slide the fork through a tiny bit to be sure it clamps properly. It's your steering controls, do you really want to risk something moving or coming loose? There's detailed instructions on my page here to help install these and move the forks so the clipons clamp fully:


http://www.yamahar3racing.com/2015/07/finally-lower-clipons-that-fit-well-vortex-clipons-vs-stock/

Also, if you have decided on the Vortex, I sell them and would really appreciate your business. Here's the link, I always maintain the lowest price Vortex will allow me to advertise and offer free shipping:
http://www.yamahar3racing.com/product/vortex-racing-clip-ons-41mm/


Cheers,
Jesse
Appreciate it, Jesse. I took a look at the installation write-up on your site, and since I don't have the necessary tools, or space, I'm going to have to get these professionally installed. I wonder if the local Yamaha dealer would make this install, or is there a conflict with factory warranty?

Anyway, when I do order them, probably within a month, you can be sure it will be from your site. Anyone who hasn't checked out this gentleman's site, do so now, it's an invaluable resource. Once again, I appreciate the help guys.

All the best,
Buzz
 

·
r3-forums.com Vendor
Joined
·
780 Posts
Thanks for the kind words, keep your eyes on the site, I have a ton of new info to add, just don't have the time to write hehe.

I'm sure any dealer or shop could install them, but the Yamaha dealer may say it voids your warranty, not sure about that. If there's a non-dealer shop that's reputable, you may want to go there instead.
Cheers,
Jesse


Appreciate it, Jesse. I took a look at the installation write-up on your site, and since I don't have the necessary tools, or space, I'm going to have to get these professionally installed. I wonder if the local Yamaha dealer would make this install, or is there a conflict with factory warranty?

Anyway, when I do order them, probably within a month, you can be sure it will be from your site. Anyone who hasn't checked out this gentleman's site, do so now, it's an invaluable resource. Once again, I appreciate the help guys.

All the best,
Buzz
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,519 Posts
Appreciate it, Jesse. I took a look at the installation write-up on your site, and since I don't have the necessary tools, or space, I'm going to have to get these professionally installed. I wonder if the local Yamaha dealer would make this install, or is there a conflict with factory warranty?

Anyway, when I do order them, probably within a month, you can be sure it will be from your site. Anyone who hasn't checked out this gentleman's site, do so now, it's an invaluable resource. Once again, I appreciate the help guys.

All the best,
Buzz
Do you have a garage by chance? If so, then you would only need a ratchet tie down to hoist the front tire off the ground. Then you just use Allen keys to remove old bars and get the new ones on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
Rased for tubes

Update: I will be sliding the fork tubes up so they are flush with the Clip-Ons. Was always planing on doing it. If you don't they do not seat correctly onto the fork tube. Noticed it right away. the space between the clip on and the Triple clamp needs to sit flush/flat. and will not if you don't slide forks up a 1/8" +/-. I read this already and that much space isn't going to change the bike geometry +/- that much. It looks way better. Something to work on while its raining here. Did a 120 mile loop out to Mulholland and PCH today. Made it back before it started to dump.


Just went to the garage and did this 15 min. Now the fork tubes are flush to the top of the Clip ons.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Do you have a garage by chance? If so, then you would only need a ratchet tie down to hoist the front tire off the ground. Then you just use Allen keys to remove old bars and get the new ones on.
Thanks for the suggestion, Kojiiro. Unfortunately, I don't have a private garage at my residence. Also, I'm a noob at wrenching, not very mechanical at all, so I'd feel safer if I left this particular job to a licensed tech. I'm an excellent self-learner though, and with all the wonderful resources available these days, I'm committed to learning. I just need to invest in some tools and, perhaps, a new place to live :laugh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Update: I will be sliding the fork tubes up so they are flush with the Clip-Ons. Was always planing on doing it. If you don't they do not seat correctly onto the fork tube. Noticed it right away. the space between the clip on and the Triple clamp needs to sit flush/flat. and will not if you don't slide forks up a 1/8" +/-. I read this already and that much space isn't going to change the bike geometry +/- that much. It looks way better. Something to work on while its raining here. Did a 120 mile loop out to Mulholland and PCH today. Made it back before it started to dump.


Just went to the garage and did this 15 min. Now the fork tubes are flush to the top of the Clip ons.
Looks good, man, much more secure.
 

·
r3-forums.com Vendor
Joined
·
780 Posts
So far my testing, and the testing of my fellow racers, has shown that the bike performs best with the rear slightly higher than the front anyways. So my recommendation if running the stock shock, is to drop the front slightly anyway, which matches well with the Vortex clipons. If racing, and using an aftermarket shock, I recommend extending the shock to raise the rear, and raising the front, but not quite as much as the rear.
The clipons looks great!
Jesse

Update: I will be sliding the fork tubes up so they are flush with the Clip-Ons. Was always planing on doing it. If you don't they do not seat correctly onto the fork tube. Noticed it right away. the space between the clip on and the Triple clamp needs to sit flush/flat. and will not if you don't slide forks up a 1/8" +/-. I read this already and that much space isn't going to change the bike geometry +/- that much. It looks way better. Something to work on while its raining here. Did a 120 mile loop out to Mulholland and PCH today. Made it back before it started to dump.


Just went to the garage and did this 15 min. Now the fork tubes are flush to the top of the Clip ons.
 

·
r3-forums.com Vendor
Joined
·
780 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
So far my testing, and the testing of my fellow racers, has shown that the bike performs best with the rear slightly higher than the front anyways. So my recommendation if running the stock shock, is to drop the front slightly anyway, which matches well with the Vortex clipons. If racing, and using an aftermarket shock, I recommend extending the shock to raise the rear, and raising the front, but not quite as much as the rear.
The clipons looks great!
Jesse
Yes I have been following and reading your Yamaharacing.com and read that you were raising the front more. And that's why mounting your clip ons under the triple clamp gives you more adjustability to raise your front up because your back is higher now. Something like that I believe. I just received the Speigler set of break lines I purchased from R0b0tN1nja_BKNY today. Just got back from fishing. Still dizzy from the boat. I installed them used dot 4 racing Motul RBF600 as you suggested. I purchased a Pneumatic break bleeder from Amazon. and turned all the way to the left to get bubbles out. Hand Pumped and bled them good. Front and rear. Done in 30 min. Took it for a ride all is good I can tell with the front it's more responsive for sure. Did some hard braking front then rear then both. Feels nice. (I never ride after going on long fishing trips I usually wait till the next day. My house feels likes its moving.

full exhaust Yoshi-PCV-blockoff-left charcoal canister-Vortexclip ons & grips-CRG Rc2 levers-S20's EVO stock size-reat seat cowl lighter-SS brake lines-Horn louder-R6 throttle tube-and the rest is cosmetic tail lights etc.
@ 3500 will be changing oil soon @ 4000
Next is suspension rear shock and possible forks.

I did all the work myself except for the tire mount and balance.
FYI: interested in the Yamaharacing.com rear set relocation brackets you made.
 

·
r3-forums.com Vendor
Joined
·
780 Posts
I'm glad it all went so well! I put so much time into those articles, it's nice to know if they are helpful or not, or if I need to add more info or change something. :)

Are you still on stock brake pads? If not, you're missing out on a huge braking performance increase by just upgrading to some Vesrah pads. Cheap and easy upgrade with a huge increase in performance...
http://www.yamahar3racing.com/product/vesrah-rjl-brake-pads-yamaha-r3-2015/

Yes I have been following and reading your Yamaharacing.com and read that you were raising the front more. And that's why mounting your clip ons under the triple clamp gives you more adjustability to raise your front up because your back is higher now. Something like that I believe. I just received the Speigler set of break lines I purchased from R0b0tN1nja_BKNY today. Just got back from fishing. Still dizzy from the boat. I installed them used dot 4 racing Motul RBF600 as you suggested. I purchased a Pneumatic break bleeder from Amazon. and turned all the way to the left to get bubbles out. Hand Pumped and bled them good. Front and rear. Done in 30 min. Took it for a ride all is good I can tell with the front it's more responsive for sure. Did some hard braking front then rear then both. Feels nice. (I never ride after going on long fishing trips I usually wait till the next day. My house feels likes its moving.

full exhaust Yoshi-PCV-blockoff-left charcoal canister-Vortexclip ons & grips-CRG Rc2 levers-S20's EVO stock size-reat seat cowl lighter-SS brake lines-Horn louder-R6 throttle tube-and the rest is cosmetic tail lights etc.
@ 3500 will be changing oil soon @ 4000
Next is suspension rear shock and possible forks.

I did all the work myself except for the tire mount and balance.
FYI: interested in the Yamaharacing.com rear set relocation brackets you made.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
I have Vesrah coming soon next week ordered already.


Update on my front brake line: When I removed the front OEM line there is a fixed bolt coming out where the OEM brake line off-set coupling thing is bolted too your frame. Speigler supplies a steel folding clamp. I installed front SS Lines as STG Youtube video install shows speigler line clamp tightened all the way down and loop of clamp toward left of bike. I Installed it where OEM bolt stud now sticks out. Deep socket to tighten etc. FYI: If you do it that way the brake line hits under the frame in full left turn, used when maneuvering the bike around a Parking lot garage etc. I figured this would ware in a bad way the break line rubber sleeve protector. So I slid on a spacer first 1/2"long on fixed bolt.Then slid clamp on and tightened bolt on with a dab of lock-tight. Now it brings the SS line and bracket forward more so it will clear frame. Then I did a test, full left turn to see the if SS Speigler line clears and theres is no interference now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
I really like how my wife's CBR600 handlebars sit nice and low, so I've decided lowering my R3's will happen soon after a lot more research on which ones to go with. My question is if my forks are already raised ~1.5in due to having my bike lowered, is this something that will prohibit me from getting lower clip ons?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,519 Posts
I'm glad it all went so well! I put so much time into those articles, it's nice to know if they are helpful or not, or if I need to add more info or change something. :)

Are you still on stock brake pads? If not, you're missing out on a huge braking performance increase by just upgrading to some Vesrah pads. Cheap and easy upgrade with a huge increase in performance...
http://www.yamahar3racing.com/product/vesrah-rjl-brake-pads-yamaha-r3-2015/
Your articles are absolutely helpful. I'm usually the type of guy who doesn't mind tying to figure it or myself. Forums always help if the knowledge is there already. In your case, most of the work for the R3 has already been done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
Sorry if this is not hte right thread for asking these questions --

whats the main issue to add the steering stop on a race bike?
What benefits from mounting the clipons under the top triple? (Just lower position helps tuck in on straights?)
If adding aftermarket cartridge kit on forks (and rear shock change), I guess the rear height tuning can be done to change the steering geometry if front is lowered 2mm to accommodate the Vortex clipons.
 

·
r3-forums.com Vendor
Joined
·
780 Posts
The R3 benefits from raising the ride height, front and rear. In order to do this, you have to slide the fork tubes down in the triple clamp, which means you have to mount your clipons under the triple clamp. This, combined with the Woodcraft clipons offering the farthest forward, and lowest position, is why I recommend them. However, in order to get them really low, you will have some interference with the dash and fairings at full lock. Installing the steering stop removes this interference, it also limits the steering which can cause a little less damage in the event of a crash. So it does a few things.
Jesse

Sorry if this is not hte right thread for asking these questions --

whats the main issue to add the steering stop on a race bike?
What benefits from mounting the clipons under the top triple? (Just lower position helps tuck in on straights?)
If adding aftermarket cartridge kit on forks (and rear shock change), I guess the rear height tuning can be done to change the steering geometry if front is lowered 2mm to accommodate the Vortex clipons.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Hi Jesse,

Vortex clip ons for my street R3 (purchasing from your store of course; )

Questions:
Another online store has the clip ons as well but they also gave an option of different sizes in mm. Didn't see a size option except for colors..do you sell R3 specific sizes?

Also, I'm with Dumanji and that I'm having my Yamaha dealership install these and will the Vortex come with detailed info about making sure to have the fork tubes flushed to the clamps?

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
I've installed vortex clipons so maybe I can give you some preliminary answers.

R3 fork tubes are 41mm that is why Jesse's store only sells 41mm because his store is R3 specific. You are correct.

Vortex supplies very vague install instructions because clipons are a universal product and each bike install will be different. Your dealership holds liability and responsibility for installing your parts correctly, but it doesn't hurt to double check their work nor give your technician friendly reminders (via adding notes to the install invoice)

Here are some install notes that you should pay attention to:
1) clipons sit flush with top of fork tubes
2) will they drill holes in your clipon bars for locator holes or file off the pins on your control housings (there are differing opinions on this, some dealers refuse to drill the bars because it might weaken the structural integrity of aluminum bars)
3) clearance - will your brake line fittings hit your instrument cluster or will your throttle lines rub your fairing. I could not find a setup to avoid both of these from happening. I settled with some light rubbing of my throttle lines on my fairing which result in some scratch/scuff marks (purely cosmetic, that fairing piece is $15 from partzilla if I ever want to replace it anyway)
 
101 - 120 of 147 Posts
Top