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The Clip On Thread

81K views 146 replies 43 participants last post by  R3Hull 
#1 ·
Lower clip on bars

I use to have an R6 so I am use to something more aggressive. Looking at the stock clip on bars on the R3, they seem like they have a rise to them. Has anyone put clip on bars with no rise on their R3? I think the Sato rear set (up and back) with a lowered bar will give me a better fit and offer the perfect "in between" geometry I'm looking for.

I'm 5'11", 165lbs...

Thoughts?
 
#4 · (Edited)
Comparing clip-ons.

Just for a thrill, I did this mock up to make it easier to see the difference between clip-on mounting locations.


Rider right: Stock bar and clip-on mounted under triple. Clip on is standard 7 degree drop, 1.5" rise - this is the set-up that seems to work best for me. I can turn lock to lock without interference with the bodywork I'm using.


Rider left: Standard 7 degree clip-on, no rise. I wanted to go a bit lower and was concerned about security of the clip-on clamps - the picture isn't clear, but the clip clamp is about 1.5", exposed fork tube about 1", leaving a half inch ungripped tube. I could have raised the forks in the triples so the clamps had full grip on the fork tube, but opted out of changing steering geometry for now. Plus the riser option put the bars closer to where I wanted them (close enough, anyway).


Oh, I did try mounting the standard clip-ons under the triple (not shown) - this resulted in the bar being an inch and a half lower than the lowest shown in the photos. All kinds of interference problems so that option went away as soon as I tried it.
 

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#8 · (Edited)
Yes - and I can say that it is the best bodywork I've ever used - seriously. I think it took all of a half-hour to mount it up with no drama, no stress. The tail section had about 10 holes, all matched perfectly with undertail and seat area. I have never had bodywork that didn't require drilling and lots of test fitting to get it right - usually a half-day at least.

I got it from webike.japan in 4 days from order to receipt - again, I'm not used to that happening. The trick is to look up R25 bodywork and go through the style and color options for each one until you find one they have in stock. Otherwise about 4 weeks from order to ship. This is the 'Race' model - another forum member (RKOM) bought the 'Type 2' bodywork. The difference is mainly weight and cost, although the Type 2 allows mounting a standard clip-on under the triple with adequate clearance. A link to his post, which shows much more detail:

http://www.r3-forums.com/forum/385-r3-appearance-body/6313-saitaniya-race-bodywork.html

Now, if someone can read Japanese, I'd go to the source:

http://saitaniyashop.cart.fc2.com/ca127/990/p-r41-s/

About 70% of the price from webike.japan for the same stock numbers, but not sure if they ship for free like webike does.
 
#10 ·
You are right - I just checked and was not able to duplicate my earlier search for 'available in warehouse' options. - the webpage has changed since I ordered mine. For one thing, the descriptions are a lot better than before. Best thing to do is copy the web address of what you are interested in and attach it to the contact form - they got back to me in a day or two as far as availability - I was asking about Type 2 at the time. I'd still like to source direct from mfgr. - if I need to replace one piece, they would be more likely to hook me up than a retailer.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Vortex clip-ons fit!!

I received my Vortex 41mm 7 degree drop clipons today to test out, so I quickly bolted them on without doing a full install and took some pictures and info for you guys. The Vortex clipons have a narrower clamp than the Woodcraft, so they fit pretty well on top of the triple clamp with just a tiny lip hanging over and the bolts that do the clamping are well supported. They also have a 7 degree drop angle which gets them a little lower than if they were flat and provides a better angle to reach the throttle while leaned off the left side of the bike. You can see from the photos below, they are significantly lower than stock. The photo shows the end of the bar about 2.5" lower than stock, but because of the 7 degree drop angle, the part where you grip the throttle is probably somewhere around 1.5"-2" lower. There is still plenty of clearance against the tank and the gauges/windscreen at full lock both directions.

There's still a little room under the bars before they interfere with the bodywork, so if Woodcraft makes a custom set just for the R3, they could probably drop the bars another .5"-1", but these will definitely work so I'm going to use these for now. If you want a set, hit me up, or you can order them straight from my site, they are in stock in black with the 7 degree drop angle for $140:
http://www.chaostheoryracing.com/?product=vortex-racing-41mm-clip-ons




 
#13 ·
After I took those photos, I noticed that my forks are actually uneven, so 1 side sticks up a little higher than the other and the lower one doesn't clamp quite as well with the top bolt, so I will likely slide my forks up in the triple clamp the 2mm or so that sticks up so the clipons are flush and it will be perfect with good bite on both top and bottom bolts of the clamp. That also probably explains why it was SOOO effing hard to my axle through both forks when I put my wheel back on...
 
#19 ·
Does anyone have a couple photos of the Woodcraft 1.5" rise clipons mounted under the triple clamp? I'm adding some Woodcraft clipon info to my writeup on the Vortex clipons to make it more complete and I could use a couple pictures of the 1.5" rise Woodcraft clipons mounted under the triple clamp.
thanks!!!
 
#28 ·
Here's mine, below. First two are best I could manage since I still have all the mirrors on, etc.

Third pic should show where the lever hits. It's only at the very end of its travel, but if your hand is there, it is not pleasant.

Last pic shows how the banjo bolt can scratch your dash :-/ I had to tilt the lever up a bit to avoid it. I so wish I could replace the MC, but it would not be production legal if I did so.
 

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#30 ·
Throttle cables no problem. Banjo bolt will contact IC just before left limit. I used a straight banjo at the MC, but banjo bolt will still be the first thing to hit. At far right limit, clutch lever will contact bodywork. It shouldn't take much to mod the steering stops - may tackle that this afternoon if I get motivated.
 
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