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Discussion Starter #1
Sato rearsets installed

I installed a set of Sato rearsets in GP shift configuration with Dynojet quick shift sensor. I had to trim the shift rod a bit to fit the sensor. Super happy with the fit, and there is ZERO free-play in the shift pedal/linkage. Super smooth action and should feel really nice on track.

Note that Sato has 2 different rearset kits available...a standard racing model and a "race concept" model that puts the pegs even higher and farther back. The ones shown here are the standard race version. I'm 5'10" and can't imagine wanting the pegs any higher or farther back than these. Would be pretty cramped. Perhaps a very petit rider might want the "race concept" version to be able to hang off better while still reaching the pegs.

I bought the stuff here: http://www.spearsenterprises.com/yamaha-r-3.html
 

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Good to know reverse shift can be done on these bikes, and quickshifter, too. Nice.

Holy shift! :eek::eek: I just saw the price for these rear sets :crying::crying:
 

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Why did you remove the chain? Going for for an RK or D.I.D right off the bat?
 

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Speaking of which, what is the basket thing thats bolted on the outside of the sprocket? Looks like extra safety stuff, and could most likely be removed.
 

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The ring catches the chain if it derails, which keeps it from locking up the rear wheel.

I suppose if you let the chain get a LOT of slack that it would be possible to throw the chain. (!)
 

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Arashi Rearsets

Here are some photos of the Arashi rearsets I bought off eBay for $138.00 shipped.

They are VERY high quality CNC anodized billet aluminum. These are the Gray ones. Also available in Black and in Gold.

Here's the link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Adjustable-Rearsets-Rear-Set-Footrests-Pedal-Fit-2014-2015-YAMAHA-YZF-R25-R3-/291415032488?var=&vxp=mtr&hash=item897d8a2292


They are also adjustable backwards and up OR forwards and down (which is where I'll set them, for less leg tuck).

I won't have time to install them for a few weeks, but I'll post a photo, and description of the install ease/difficulty once I do.

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Thanks for the link Fang. I'll probably pick these up as well! Now to figure out HOW to replace this and the levers. First bike get to learn on and first mechanical thing I care enough about to learn uh.. mechanicaling (?) on.
 

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Thanks for the link Fang. I'll probably pick these up as well! Now to figure out HOW to replace this and the levers. First bike get to learn on and first mechanical thing I care enough about to learn uh.. mechanicaling (?) on.
For some reason these don't come with any instructions at all, but they seem pretty straightforward. There is a spring that comes with it that I believe is part of the brake light switch. I haven't looked at the stock setup on the bike yet.

You do have to adjust the length of the shifter rod once you have them positioned as you want them, but that's just a threaded rod with a nut and jam nut on each end. Two wrenches and it's done. Might have to adjust a couple times if it doesn't shift smoothly. Who knows?

Same ones sell in Canada for $199.95, so this is a good deal. You'll be impressed with the quality.

Mechanicaling is more fun on a brand new, clean motorcycle. Enjoy!

I usually end up putting an extra $1,000 into every motorcycle I buy. It's part of the fun.

NOTE: Shipping took 12 days to Colorado
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Is the install pretty simple?
The left side is very straightforward, especially if you aren't installing a quick shifter. If a quick shifter is wanted, the shift shaft needs to be trimmed a bit. For GP shift, the sprocket cover either needs to be removed or trimmed for clearance to the shift knuckle.

Right side is a little more involved. The brake hose needs to be shortened if you wish to use the stock reservoir mounting point. If you are careful, this can be done without having to re-bleed the brake.

Why did you remove the chain? Going for for an RK or D.I.D right off the bat?
Maybe the 415 conversion?
Bingo. I'll be running with the 415 conversion indeed. Note the 18 tooth sprocket in the picture.
 

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Here are some photos of the Arashi rearsets I bought off eBay for $138.00 shipped.

They are VERY high quality CNC anodized billet aluminum. These are the Gray ones. Also available in Black and in Gold.

Here's the link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Adjustab...item897d8a2292


They are also adjustable backwards and up OR forwards and down (which is where I'll set them, for less leg tuck).

I won't have time to install them for a few weeks, but I'll post a photo, and description of the install ease/difficulty once I do.


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are they designed for the R3? let's see the pics once installed... a nice how-to video also would be great... Cheers!
 

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Designed for YZF-R25. Work on the R3 because it has the same frame and components as the R25.

T-rav_12 introduced himself today and said he had installed a set of these rearsets on his bike. You could send him a private message (via your User CP, upper right on page) and ask for photos....

I'll post photos once I have them installed.
 

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What quick shifter are you running? Also what are you doing for body work? I assume you have the same rules as we do where the lower has to be able to contain the engine oil in case you throw a rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What quick shifter are you running? Also what are you doing for body work? I assume you have the same rules as we do where the lower has to be able to contain the engine oil in case you throw a rod.
I've got a Power Commander PC V installed, and have the Dynojet quick shift sensor.

For bodywork, HotBodies is using my stock bodywork to make molds for the R3. They should have something available in another 2-3 weeks. It'll have the reservoir in the belly pan to make it race legal.

A couple of guys ran their R3's in pretty much stock form at the AFM races at Sonoma last weekend...they used disposable aluminum turkey roasting pans to create the belly pan reservoir. Pretty ghetto, but it passed tech. :laugh:
 

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The left side is very straightforward, especially if you aren't installing a quick shifter. If a quick shifter is wanted, the shift shaft needs to be trimmed a bit. For GP shift, the sprocket cover either needs to be removed or trimmed for clearance to the shift knuckle.

Right side is a little more involved. The brake hose needs to be shortened if you wish to use the stock reservoir mounting point. If you are careful, this can be done without having to re-bleed the brake.





Bingo. I'll be running with the 415 conversion indeed. Note the 18 tooth sprocket in the picture.
Sounds complicated lol I've never done rearsets so I might need to find a shop here in SoCal to install.
 

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Awesome. I decided to hold off on racing mine in May. Hopefully by July I will have bodywork as well as all the other parts I need. Woodcraft has my bike right now and is using it to make race parts.
 

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I installed the Arashi rearsets (black) on my R3. Had to shorten the bottom bracket/ frame mounting bolt about 3/8" on the left side, as the tapped hole in the frame is a bottomed hole (not a "through hole"). Flipped my shift arm 180* to get my shifting back to "normal". Racers know what I'm saying. Flipping the shift arm really smoothed out the previously clunky shifting. Otherwise, the left side was pretty straightforward.
Now the right side. I had to adjust the plunger shaft all the way down on the master cylinder where it connects to the brake pedal/ lever. Next, the brake caliper hose was too short. To remedy this, I removed the keeper bracket on the swingarm and flipped the banjo fitting on the master cylinder and aligned said fitting inboard of the rearward tab on top of the master cylinder. After getting that headache engineered, everything else was pretty straightforward.
 

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