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The Rearset Thread - everything you need or want.

55K views 111 replies 40 participants last post by  mlin32 
#1 ·
Sato rearsets installed

I installed a set of Sato rearsets in GP shift configuration with Dynojet quick shift sensor. I had to trim the shift rod a bit to fit the sensor. Super happy with the fit, and there is ZERO free-play in the shift pedal/linkage. Super smooth action and should feel really nice on track.

Note that Sato has 2 different rearset kits available...a standard racing model and a "race concept" model that puts the pegs even higher and farther back. The ones shown here are the standard race version. I'm 5'10" and can't imagine wanting the pegs any higher or farther back than these. Would be pretty cramped. Perhaps a very petit rider might want the "race concept" version to be able to hang off better while still reaching the pegs.

I bought the stuff here: http://www.spearsenterprises.com/yamaha-r-3.html
 

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#11 · (Edited)
The left side is very straightforward, especially if you aren't installing a quick shifter. If a quick shifter is wanted, the shift shaft needs to be trimmed a bit. For GP shift, the sprocket cover either needs to be removed or trimmed for clearance to the shift knuckle.

Right side is a little more involved. The brake hose needs to be shortened if you wish to use the stock reservoir mounting point. If you are careful, this can be done without having to re-bleed the brake.

Why did you remove the chain? Going for for an RK or D.I.D right off the bat?
Maybe the 415 conversion?
Bingo. I'll be running with the 415 conversion indeed. Note the 18 tooth sprocket in the picture.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Arashi Rearsets

Here are some photos of the Arashi rearsets I bought off eBay for $138.00 shipped.

They are VERY high quality CNC anodized billet aluminum. These are the Gray ones. Also available in Black and in Gold.

Here's the link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Adjustable-Rearsets-Rear-Set-Footrests-Pedal-Fit-2014-2015-YAMAHA-YZF-R25-R3-/291415032488?var=&vxp=mtr&hash=item897d8a2292


They are also adjustable backwards and up OR forwards and down (which is where I'll set them, for less leg tuck).

I won't have time to install them for a few weeks, but I'll post a photo, and description of the install ease/difficulty once I do.

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#20 ·
#9 ·
Thanks for the link Fang. I'll probably pick these up as well! Now to figure out HOW to replace this and the levers. First bike get to learn on and first mechanical thing I care enough about to learn uh.. mechanicaling (?) on.
 
#10 · (Edited)
For some reason these don't come with any instructions at all, but they seem pretty straightforward. There is a spring that comes with it that I believe is part of the brake light switch. I haven't looked at the stock setup on the bike yet.

You do have to adjust the length of the shifter rod once you have them positioned as you want them, but that's just a threaded rod with a nut and jam nut on each end. Two wrenches and it's done. Might have to adjust a couple times if it doesn't shift smoothly. Who knows?

Same ones sell in Canada for $199.95, so this is a good deal. You'll be impressed with the quality.

Mechanicaling is more fun on a brand new, clean motorcycle. Enjoy!

I usually end up putting an extra $1,000 into every motorcycle I buy. It's part of the fun.

NOTE: Shipping took 12 days to Colorado
 
#12 · (Edited)
Here are some photos of the Arashi rearsets I bought off eBay for $138.00 shipped.

They are VERY high quality CNC anodized billet aluminum. These are the Gray ones. Also available in Black and in Gold.

Here's the link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Adjustab...item897d8a2292


They are also adjustable backwards and up OR forwards and down (which is where I'll set them, for less leg tuck).

I won't have time to install them for a few weeks, but I'll post a photo, and description of the install ease/difficulty once I do.


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#14 ·
Designed for YZF-R25. Work on the R3 because it has the same frame and components as the R25.

T-rav_12 introduced himself today and said he had installed a set of these rearsets on his bike. You could send him a private message (via your User CP, upper right on page) and ask for photos....

I'll post photos once I have them installed.
 
#16 ·
I've got a Power Commander PC V installed, and have the Dynojet quick shift sensor.

For bodywork, HotBodies is using my stock bodywork to make molds for the R3. They should have something available in another 2-3 weeks. It'll have the reservoir in the belly pan to make it race legal.

A couple of guys ran their R3's in pretty much stock form at the AFM races at Sonoma last weekend...they used disposable aluminum turkey roasting pans to create the belly pan reservoir. Pretty ghetto, but it passed tech. :laugh:
 
#19 ·
I installed the Arashi rearsets (black) on my R3. Had to shorten the bottom bracket/ frame mounting bolt about 3/8" on the left side, as the tapped hole in the frame is a bottomed hole (not a "through hole"). Flipped my shift arm 180* to get my shifting back to "normal". Racers know what I'm saying. Flipping the shift arm really smoothed out the previously clunky shifting. Otherwise, the left side was pretty straightforward.
Now the right side. I had to adjust the plunger shaft all the way down on the master cylinder where it connects to the brake pedal/ lever. Next, the brake caliper hose was too short. To remedy this, I removed the keeper bracket on the swingarm and flipped the banjo fitting on the master cylinder and aligned said fitting inboard of the rearward tab on top of the master cylinder. After getting that headache engineered, everything else was pretty straightforward.
 
#23 ·
Flipped my shift arm 180* to get my shifting back to "normal".

So does the Arashi kit come with a new arm for race shift pattern, or uses the std Yamaha one ?
Or you modified a stock one wider out?


Sean says the sprocket cover either needs to be removed or trimmed, with the street Sato ones.
Racing ones say to rotate it and looks to clear sprocket cover.













Chinese are ok when prepared to put the work in, (decent bearings, bolts washers etc) sorted to personal preference. (I run extreme position on custom mounting plates to get the peg above swingarm/level rear tyre).
one huge advantage is they don't peel a steel frame open in a crash,
Sato always top quality, but had clone ones on the last bike.
I like the price of those Asachi ones, can afford spares.
 
#24 ·
No, the Arashis don't come with a new shift arm. You reuse the stock one. Mine flipped perfectly, without having to modify the arm or sprocket cover. Getting the shift pedal height set to my liking was a small challenge, and in the end, the shift linkage rod "lightly" touches the bottom of the bracket when I kick the pedal down (upshift). Just enough to barely rub off some of the black anodized finish. Overall, especially considering the price, I'm very happy with the Arashi rearsets.
 
#27 ·
The bike is at the Spears Racing shop at the moment, but we can get a measurement for you. Question first: are you running a quick shifter? If not, then the length will be different than what I had to do. Length may also depend on quick shifter type, and whether you prefer GP shift or standard shift.

In other words...the length that worked for me might not be the same as what will work for your setup. Let me know what you're running and I'll try to help out.
 
#31 ·
I'm having trouble with shifting smoothly. My hands aren't that big and if i want to do some smooth clutching, i've got to pay attention to use the whole lenght of the lever. Any suggestions here? I've been thinking about an aftermarket lever which can be adjusted but i have truely no idea where to look for it and what's good.

Anyone with idea's?

Edit: Will a rearset do any justice here?
 
#32 ·
If your main issue is reach from the grip to the lever, then yes...aftermarket levers with adjustable position will probably be the right way to go. I personally like the quality and support of CRG, but they don't appear to have levers available yet for the R3. I would imagine they will soon. There are also other brands and a few knock-offs that people seem to have good luck with. Do some googling and you'll find some stuff out there.

Rearsets won't help your lever reach issue. The main benefit of rearsets is ground clearance and a more racy riding position.
 
#34 ·
Those are the ones I put on my R3. Bought them from that seller. The quality is good, they fit great and make a big difference since they're adjustable. NOTE: these are shorty levers.

There are also these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Folding-Ext...SS-/331589505881?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

They're folding (for if you go down, they won't bend or break off), extendable (to the length you want) and adjustable (distance from the handlebars, 6 positions).
 
#37 ·
#43 · (Edited)
Co-pilot (rear) Rearsets

Found them on eBay today. You're slipping, Fang.
Dangitalltoheck!!!
My dang-dumb, ding-dong phone's not uploading pix.
They're from KD Project Racing, $205+$26 to ship. Search "Rear Sets for YAMAHA R25 / R3". They look really nice and appear to move your passenger's feet back considerably.
 

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#44 · (Edited)
Found them on eBay today. You're slipping, Fang.
Dangitalltoheck!!!
My dang-dumb, ding-dong phone's not uploading pix.
They're from KD Project Racing, $205+$26 to ship. Search "Rear Sets for YAMAHA R25 / R3". They look really nice and appear to move your passenger's feet back considerably.
Slipping, I am! :eek: I blame the Internet, once again!

I haven't been checking KD very often lately because their website takes forever and a day to load. That's if it doesn't just decide to hang, completely.

I have 35 MB download speed from Comcast and even if I wait until low usage hours it still takes forever.

Those passenger rearsets look pretty good. I DO have to wonder how much of a Contortionist a passeneger would have to be to use them, though. Stock pegs already fold you up pretty good!
 
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