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Discussion Starter #1
I know @maverick had mentioned this in an earlier post but thought I'd see if anyone else is facing this. At times, the bike shifts hard from 2nd to 3rd. What I mean by hard is a clunk noise. I've never had the gear get stuck or anything. It's just a loud clunk noise. All other gears shift really smooth. I always pull back to clutch lever fully and don't rest my foot on the gear lever.
At times, 2nd to 3rd is perfectly smooth and at times it's clunky. Just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong or if there is some adjustment needed. Also noticed that the hard shifts are after the engine warms up. When I start riding, the first 2-3 Kms are smooth 2nd to 3rd shifts. I find it strange that it's only 2nd to 3rd. If I'm doing something wrong, shouldn't it affect all gear shifts?
Any help/advice would be much appreciated
 

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Hey. Yeah I get the same thing, really clunky shift sound from 2nd to 3rd. It seems like it doesn't matter how slow or fast you are when you shift - the clunk noise is still there. I have no idea myself if it is something serious or it might get better after the first service. It even feels like you have to pull the gear lever harder than for other gears. Would be great to hear some ideas from more experienced riders.
 

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Preload the shifter with light pressure, fan the clutch but you only need to pull it a tiny bit and twitch throttle off/on at the same time. It's a quick movement and the gears will pretty much be silent and smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey. Yeah I get the same thing, really clunky shift sound from 2nd to 3rd. It seems like it doesn't matter how slow or fast you are when you shift - the clunk noise is still there. I have no idea myself if it is something serious or it might get better after the first service. It even feels like you have to pull the gear lever harder than for other gears. Would be great to hear some ideas from more experienced riders.
I've finished my first service and oil change but no improvement. I find it shifts smoothly more often than not at higher rpms It's so strange how it works fine at times and then you get the clunk every now and then
 

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I get this too and not only on upshift from second to third but down too. While second to third and reverse seems to be the loudest, I hear it on all downshifts. I know all bike clutches make a clunk noise, but you're right, it's kinda loud on the R3.


I think it has to do with two possible factors: it's new and maybe needs some time to wear in, and/or the fact first and second gear are really low so moving to third is like going from 7k RMP's to 3k (don't quote me on the exact rpm numbers, but I do know the ratio's between second and third are pretty significant).


on upshifts after second gear I do what Navin mentioned, preload, blip throttle down and let the gear slide into place. I don't feather the clutch as he suggested but it's probably better you do so your shift-rods don't wear prematurely.
 

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Not so much a feather as a twitch of clutch. Hard to describe, easy to do though. I'm at 1,000 miles and I only clunk when I goon it myself.

Precision bearing controls are the answer I believe. Too much slop between the foot and the actual gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not so much a feather as a twitch of clutch. Hard to describe, easy to do though. I'm at 1,000 miles and I only clunk when I goon it myself.

Precision bearing controls are the answer I believe. Too much slop between the foot and the actual gear.
Thanks for the tips Navin. Can you elaborate more on the twitch/feather part? Do you pull the clutch in slightly and then all the way while shifting?
 

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It's a fast snap about an inch at most of lever movement at the lever end, timed with the actual movement of the foot lever and the throttle twitch. Not even close to full lever travel. If you are separating the motions, you get the clunk.

I use no clutch shifting on other bikes but the R3 doesn't seem to like it much in lower gears. Lurches on pick up of the throttle. Higher gears it's better but the quick clutch snap with preload on the foot lever is very smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's a fast snap about an inch at most of lever movement at the lever end, timed with the actual movement of the foot lever and the throttle twitch. Not even close to full lever travel. If you are separating the motions, you get the clunk.

I use no clutch shifting on other bikes but the R3 doesn't seem to like it much in lower gears. Lurches on pick up of the throttle. Higher gears it's better but the quick clutch snap with preload on the foot lever is very smooth.
Thanks I think your suggestion worked. Refrained from pulling the clutch fully in and it shifts smoothly. Rode about 50km today and no issues. Going on another ride soon so will keep trying it out.
 

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So it really is ok to shift not pulling the lever back much? You don't have to bury it to the handgrip every time? I was noticing just barely pulling it back results in smoother shifts but I was scared I was hurting something.
 

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I just discovered the no clutch shift today. It seems to shift just fine this way. Roll off the throttle slightly, put pressure on the clutch lever, and it slips right into the next gear. Am I prematurely wearing out any parts by doing this clutchless shift?
 

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Really, the clutch lever is only for down-shifting. You can use it to up-shift, but it's not necessary. (True story). The harder you accelerate, the smoother it shifts.
 

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Down-shifting/Rev Matching HELP REQUESTED

One month and three days into my motorcycling life and I completely understand the term “addiction”. I may ride around my sub-division before bed, just so I can sleep peacefully.
One of the tenets I am addicted to is improving my skills every time I get on my bike. Thus far, every ride is to enhance a skill-set. Which brings me to down-shifting (possible rev matching). As I approach intersections and tight turns, I approach with caution…meaning I slow down a little to make sure the drivers are paying attention, or I am approaching the curve correctly. Not sure if ‘engine braking’ is necessary; but, I pull-in the clutch/roll-off and down-shift 5-4-3, etc. Sometime, I ride the clutch to a red light, typically remaining in 2nd, in case the light changes. I tried, releasing the clutch (SLOWLY) and the bike jerks. If this is the proper response, let me know. I have also tried to clutch/down-shift/quick roll-on up and release and my rear tire locked up a little bit.
I realize it comes with time, right now all I am seeking in the proper technique. This a great forum, I sure you guys can help me out.
 

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I am by no means an expert motorcycle rider, but I do have some experience rev-matching with cars. The concept is the same.

The idea is to shift down a gear and blip the throttle so that the revs are high enough to match your current speed. Too much gas will jerk the bike forward, too little will cause it to engine brake abruptly. There's not much else more to it than practicing to feel how much gas you'll need to give it for a smooth downshift/rev-match.

Sorry if that wasn't helpful enough LOL.
 

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Right. When downshifting, unless you are creeping along and can just release the clutch slowly while rolling on a bit, you probably want to quickly blip the throttle to get the revs up to the point where the engine would be spinning in the next gear, then release the clutch.

This is much easier to practice while not under braking, but eventually you should be able to brake while doing this as well. There are plenty of videos out there demonstrating this. Just search for "motorcycle blip downshift".
 

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Thanks...I will attempt practice the basics and definitely review Code & Condon.
 
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