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Bout to hit 4k mile mark.. Dealer said it's gonna cost me an arm and a leg. ($$$) to do this service which include engine oil + oil filter change. Clean and lube my chain. Etc.. Typical service.. "Check everything". Is it EXTREMELY necessary to do this Throttle Body sync? I mean I do slightly have a "loopy" idle when I start the bike up cold but not when its already warmed up and I'm at a red light or stop. I can easily do my engine oil and filter change. ($70 of materials from Walmart or something) and I already have chain lube at home (PJ1). What do y'all think?
 

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Thread moved to Tech section - see also this: http://www.r3-forums.com/forum/546-...841-cheaper-source-yamaha-s-vacuum-gauge.html

To answer the question "is this absolutely necessary?": short answer is no, but no one has posted up the results of throttle body synch so far - like how far off they were (if at all). A synch may have no noticeable effect, or it may improve performance, depending.

Owner's manual outlines what you should be checking at 4K, oil change super easy (and less than half the $70 you quoted) - two quarts and a filter.
 

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Changing the oil and adjusting the chain are really easy. Both things you should most definitely learn to do on your own as they're useful maintenance and preventative skills.

Be warned though that the oil filter will be screwed on extremely tight by the dealer. Get a specific motorcycle filter strap wrench to save yourself a lot of pain. Filters only need to go on hand tight + 1/4th turn.

Throttle sync, no idea on that. I'm at 4300 miles and haven't felt a need to get that investigated.
 

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Throttle Sync

I did a throttle sync at just under 8,ooo miles. I had new NGK Iridium spark plugs (CR8E1X) to put in so I did research on the throttle sync to do at the same time. I bought 20' of 1/4" OD X .170" ID tubing, two 3/16" vacuum restrictors from Autozone, extra aquarium tubing from PETCO with a smaller ID than the .170". I already had zip ties, 4' level and 2 stroke oil for the tool so my cost was around $10.00. The .170 ID tubing fit loosely on the vacuum port of the throttle bodies so I used the smaller aquarium tubing with tiny zip ties to ensure it didn't come off. I then attached the aquarium tubing to the vinyl tubing with vacuum restrictors about three feet from the vacuum ports. Everything worked perfectly. The fluid was very stable and my throttle bodies were way off. I found the process on the Yamaha R6 forum. I will be doing this step in the service checks from now on.
 

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I am about to do the same you dd. How would I know how much to turn the screw at first then sync?
First thing to do is let the bike idle for around 3-5 minutes. Turn off bike, then hook up the tool. Turn on bike to see where the levels are. Turn off bike and make small adjustments. I think I ended up making 1/8 turns repeating the on - check/off - adjust and repeat until the levels were very close. I did a lot of youtube watching and read a bunch before I did it. I hope it works out for you. Do you have a service manual for the job?
 
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