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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently installed the AR-25 kit from Traxxion Dynamics. I did an installation video.

Please check it out and let me know what y'all think.

I did forget an important step and that was to show the measuring of the fork oil level.
 

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Great video to share with the R3 community and shows a big benefit to AR-25s, easy installation! Oil level is 110mm for top of stanchion with fork collapsed and without springs or spacers installed.

We chose the AR-25s when we prepped my wife's trackbike since they give you a 90+% solution for the front end at 50% the cost. AR25s get you right in the ballpark. With cartridges, if you, like her, don't have the experience or feel to provide feedback determining if/what damping adjustments are needed, clicker dials are there to either look cool at best or ruin your handling with a few wild uneducated twists at worst. AR-25s are also reversable since you don't have to cut or grind the end of the stanchion to remove the oil lock like with cartridges. Now that we're selling the bike, I was able to set the forks back to stock in a few hours.
 

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Nice job! Ride report?

This video can also serve as a "how to replace a blown fork seal" video, given that part of this job involved removing it and replacing it ...

Having done this on other bikes over the years ... Tips for next time!

Crack the top cap loose while the forks are still installed on the bike. If it's stuck, this way the bike itself serves as a jig to hold the fork in place.

Likewise with that bottom damper-rod bolt. Knock it loose a fraction of a turn with the fork still installed on the bike.

After the forks are out of the bike - Take the bottom damper-rod bolt out before you remove the top cap. It will leak oil out when you do this. Purpose ... A lot of the time, the damper-rod will want to spin inside when you try to loosen the damper-rod bolt. Removing it while the fork spring is still applying pressure to it discourages the damper-rod from spinning, so the bottom bolt will come out easily. Since you've already cracked it loose on the bike, it will spin out easily by hand.

If you have the top cap and the damper-rod bolt both cracked loose with the fork still installed on the bike, you won't have to clamp the fork in a vise. (Saves a step that is prone to doing damage)

Nice fork-seal installation tool. I've always made do with a piece of PVC pipe and the old fork seal ... but if you're re-using the fork seal, you can't do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Had the first chance to shake down the R3 on the North Course of VIR yesterday. I have nothing but good things to say about the Traxxion Dynamics AR-25 kit. Firm under hard braking and smooth in the corners.

It was fun passing 600's and getting enough distance from them in the corners, that they can't catch me on the straights....
 

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Take the bottom damper-rod bolt out before you remove the top cap. It will leak oil out when you do this. Purpose ... A lot of the time, the damper-rod will want to spin inside when you try to loosen the damper-rod bolt. Removing it while the fork spring is still applying pressure to it discourages the damper-rod from spinning, so the bottom bolt will come out easily. Since you've already cracked it loose on the bike, it will spin out easily by hand.

If you have the top cap and the damper-rod bolt both cracked loose with the fork still installed on the bike, you won't have to clamp the fork in a vise. (Saves a step that is prone to doing damage)
So, I'm in the process of doing this install this weekend (actually bought the kit off of Andysrage :)) and I've gotta say the damper rod bolt tip above is the one greatest piece of advice I've heard regarding this install. I did a similar install using the Racetech Gold Valves on my 2001 SV650 about 11 years ago and I remember I had to go to a friend who had the OEM tool that prevented the rod from spinning (some squarish pyramid thing)... wish I had thought of this back then!

I changed up the steps a bit, I emptied the oil from the cap first.... let it drain with all the bits still in the fork over an oil pan. then recapped it with the springs and spacers and the pressure allowed me to take out the damper rod bolt without breaking a sweat (impact driver also helped)... Worked like a charm! I even remember friends having to use the handle end of a broom stick to put pressure on the rod to get the bolt out. 🤦‍♂️ Funny thing is, I'm sure I was told this tip before and YET I was still stressing about this install because I was thinking of ways to prevent the damper rod from spinning lol.

In any case, I would love to buy virtual beers for everyone on this thread lol! Cheers! 🍻🍻🍺
 
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