So, I'm in the process of doing this install this weekend (actually bought the kit off of Andysrage ) and I've gotta say the damper rod bolt tip above is the one greatest piece of advice I've heard regarding this install. I did a similar install using the Racetech Gold Valves on my 2001 SV650 about 11 years ago and I remember I had to go to a friend who had the OEM tool that prevented the rod from spinning (some squarish pyramid thing)... wish I had thought of this back then!Take the bottom damper-rod bolt out before you remove the top cap. It will leak oil out when you do this. Purpose ... A lot of the time, the damper-rod will want to spin inside when you try to loosen the damper-rod bolt. Removing it while the fork spring is still applying pressure to it discourages the damper-rod from spinning, so the bottom bolt will come out easily. Since you've already cracked it loose on the bike, it will spin out easily by hand.
If you have the top cap and the damper-rod bolt both cracked loose with the fork still installed on the bike, you won't have to clamp the fork in a vise. (Saves a step that is prone to doing damage)