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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Gave this another shot after reading someone here relocated the throttle cables over the brake lever. (Sorry, couldn't find your post to give you proper credit!So jump in!). Leaving the throttle in stock position has the cables rubbing the inner fairings as they bend from the housing.

So, drilled a new throttle housing locating hole in the bar about 75-90 degrees behind the original after eyeballing it. I have it set with just the slightest clearance between the brake lever and the throttle and adjusting it won't make it much better, only worse in fact. I'll be trimming a mm or two from the lever at the close spot, it's not a crucial point anyway.

I was careful to adjust everything so nothing hits the fairings at full lock. My only concern is if the on/off switch on the throttle will contact a future tank bag, at which point it will be bypassed for a push button kill switch dirt bike style.

So far the slightly lower bars give better feel to the front tire. Steering more connected and not an extreme position. Feels very natural. It's only lower by the thickness of the clamp so still not a flat or drop down clip on.

Our fellow member also made bushings to use longer locating bolts from below. My triple clamp holes don't go thru so he must have drilled it out from the bottom. I will probably do this at some point too unless a set of aluminum clip ons find their way on the bike with zero rise and again above the top clamp.

Thanks for the solution, (unknown inmate!) wish I had seen it when I had it apart the first time!
 

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Gave this another shot after reading someone here relocated the throttle cables over the brake lever. (Sorry, couldn't find your post to give you proper credit!So jump in!). Leaving the throttle in stock position has the cables rubbing the inner fairings as they bend from the housing.

Our fellow member also made bushings to use longer locating bolts from below. My triple clamp holes don't go thru so he must have drilled it out from the bottom. I will probably do this at some point too unless a set of aluminum clip ons find their way on the bike with zero rise and again above the top clamp.

Thanks for the solution, (unknown inmate!) wish I had seen it when I had it apart the first time!
Hey Duder,
I did this - i just posted pics of it over on another thread
http://www.r3-forums.com/forum/289-yamaha-r3-general-discussion/6281-painted-factory-red-white.html

The thing about the threads not going through the triple tree, you have to remove the cable clamps from the bottom of the triple tree - they have their own M6 bolts that go up into the same hole in the triple tree that the clip ons bolt to(threads go all the way through - bolts go in from top and bottom). Just pop them out, and then I reinstalled the clamps when i put the spacer in...sandwiched in between the spacer and the bottom of the triple tree. To truly finish the job, a short M6 bolt down through the top of the triple tree holes (like 10mm short or less) to fill the holes and put the plastic caps back on would be sweet... or long enough bolts up through the bottom that they sit flush but they would have to be trimmed up to look sweet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Nicely done and great pics too! Thanks for mentioning it in the tread. Made me go back out and rethink it. I'll give those cable n wire guides a good look too.

Of possible consideration for your bike, I added a R6 throttle tube to mine that has a slightly quicker ratio, no need to regrip to get to WFO. I can't recall the model year but it helps. Even had the matching grip on it.

I also delete the push closed cables on all my bikes. Slightly lighter pull and action at the tube.
 

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I will definitely checkout the r6 throttle barrel... the stock one is pretty sad.

Is there a downside to deleting the one throttle cable?? If no major downside to it I would definitely consider it on my bike.

Eventually I want to find a nice aftermarket throttle assembly and either delete the switch assembly or get an aftermarket one of those as well. As of yet I've not really had time to research that matter in the catalogs to see what is available. Perhaps bar end mirrors.

Anyway, thanks for starting this thread for those who want to do the same to their bike...for me this mod took the bike from not all that interesting to ride to something I really enjoy riding back and forth to work each day. I've always ridden cruisers in the past, I'm done with that ... I want to lean in aggressively and have that look/feel... but I don't quite trust myself on the highways with an R6 hahah... so this has to work.
 

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Being a racer, I always try to practice very smooth throttle control. I never thought to remove the throttle return cable to lighten the pull. Great idea. Has anyone tried to switch the handlebars from left side to right side and flip them upside down ON TOP of the triple clamp? You'd still need to incorporate a spacer and a longer bolt for the handlebars indexing. I'm wondering if this'll work. Seems like you'd get about the same amount of drop in the bars...
X2 on the R6 (1/4 turn throttle) throttle tube. I did this on my track ninja 2-fitty and it got rid of the need to double grip to get WFO. I'll try to find that p/n. It was like $8 from Ron Ayers.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The grip assembly is pn 131204000471

It was $27 at Rocky Mountain. I hope it $8 for you guys!

Downside to the cable mod? None I can think of. My MX bikes started having them after a lawsuit where a guy had his throttle lock open. Big thumpers had huge intake signals and could stick the standard style slide from the sucktion forces. The later FCR carb has bearings on the slide to prevent that. Still. Never had it on the older two stroke style carbs on big thumpers myself. I can't see that being an issue on this bike at all. I've done it for many years now. Thinking... Back to a 2002 KTM 520! Lol!

I used a full R6 throttle housing in my last bike, Ninja 300. Compact housing. Had to use a dirt bike style push button kill switch but it was all very sano.

Im going to try a set of aluminum clips off an older GSXR I have somewhere. Gotta dig them out. Might try the entire fork set in fact. Same 41mm tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did the cable guide delete, what a frigging mess under there. Yamaha had a wire in a knot thru one guide???

So, I added a 22mm bushing and longer bolt from below, 19mm would be about perfect for the bars to be at the highest under clamp point. I reused the guide bracket bolts above for a factory look and loosened and swung the brake line up to put a nice bend in the hose. If done carefully no air will intrude but expect to need to bleed and replace the sealing washers just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Last detail for today.

Left side wiring harness from the bar switch zip tied to the clutch cable about three inches from the perch.

The over the lever throttle cable flows nicely now, better than stock. Good call on that Maven!

Everything else seems to find its place. The stock wire debacle was really bad. Wonder if they are all like that or someone goofed on my build? I ended up cutting the wire loops to untangle it.
 

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Thanks, This saves $100 for now.


how long are the M6 bolts we Need?


ie to allow 10mm bolt to go in the top with approx 20mm spacer and the cable guide in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I didn't catch the measurement on that, sorry. I'd guess 35, I had them in a spare bolts box.

Full lock to the left my brake hose just kisses the instrument cluster. No big deal and a future braided hose will be shorter to avoid that.
 

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To keep the harness from dragging on the fairing...
Dang, you did it it up pretty proper there, duder. I agree the wiring/cable routing is an absolute mess in stock configuration. I took one look and said to myself .. "well... maybe I just don't understand sport bikes...<shrug>". I think I'll follow suit and delete the cable management items and the one throttle cable.. it looks pretty sweet with just one. I'd like to get a RAM cell phone mount and fab up a quick bracket to use the M6 holes in the triple tree so I can get the phone mounted up there... haven't really done any evaluation on space yet though.

A rotation of the banjo bolt on my front brake master cylinder is in order just like you did on yours.. I have just been reluctant to drag out the stuff to do a brake bleed...

Nice job man... nice job...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I had renewed motivation from your post so thank you!

I was able to de-snug the banjo bolt, rotate the hose with the bolt and snug it while pulling the lever to put outward pressure at the washers. No fluid escaped, lever never moved and no leaks after. Just use some finesse and have a third hand to hold the brake on lightly. I had everything on hand just in case I got air in it or a leak. All firm and tight. I might have rotated just a hair too far, maybe do it with the bars full left to check that instrument clearance?
 

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Has anyone tried to switch the handlebars from left side to right side and flip them upside down ON TOP of the triple clamp?
Yeah Ive just done it.
the rest is the same with the throttle rotation, the Banjo on left lock, cable & wiring routing, etc,
But ive dropped the forks thru the triples 5.4mm (as a baseline 30mm protruding, 24.6mm was stock to try and load the front of this thing to reduce the workload on the soft rear shock we have to race with here) This puts the Fork caps level with the bar clamps and a 10mm highspacer over the 41mm forks, and a 32mm spacer on the triple clamp to indexing bolts.
Its pretty radical, about 50mm lower bars buts the same amount of work will be needed anyway if you buy aftermarket bars wanting the lowest mounting possible without munting bodywork.
Problem with stock bars is they weigh 700 grams each, but this is why Yamaha run bar end weights like the others.

*Full thread and write up of my running in, setup and track appraisal coming once Ive documented the past 4 weeks ownersip from showroom to track.
 

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Clip-ons

Has anyone successfully flipped the stock bars (ie left to right and inverted) as opposed to relocating below the triple clamp?
Thanks
 

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^ Nice! Did you have to modify anything or was it just a simple switch throlle, switches, and etc?
 
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