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Nice package. As they mentioned in the vid, good bang for the buck and good, verifiable results.
Then there's suspension and brakes...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Im curious about this cause its a good price and seems like a quality product.

Just bought my r3 last year and its my first sportbike. I would like a small performance upgrade without a bike.

I mainly commute to work and ride with my friend on weekends. No racetracks or twisties in my area but lots of parks and nature to explore.

I was looking at Noton motorsports ecu coupled with a m4 titanium exhaust til i seen what tst is offering for a complete package.

I live like a hermit and didnt know tst raced or made any products besides fender eliminators and turn signals...
Im looking for best bang for my buck.
 

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Im curious about this cause its a good price and seems like a quality product.

Just bought my r3 last year and its my first sportbike. I would like a small performance upgrade without a bike.

I mainly commute to work and ride with my friend on weekends. No racetracks or twisties in my area but lots of parks and nature to explore.

I was looking at Noton motorsports ecu coupled with a m4 titanium exhaust til i seen what tst is offering for a complete package.

I live like a hermit and didnt know tst raced or made any products besides fender eliminators and turn signals...
Im looking for best bang for my buck.
I go with the Graves works 2 exhaust and flash. This is for sure the best set up. Not the cheapest. About a grand all in

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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I'll give you my honest opinion..... It sounds like for what you are using the bike for, you probably would benefit more from upgrading suspension- more than motor performance. Horsepower claims sell parts.... Every dyno test is a little bit different. In a perfect world you might gain 4-5% (most of that would be near redline). On a bike that claims 42 HP (from Yamaha), a 4-5% increase, that might net you 2 HP (once again, near redline). I doubt most street riders could feel the difference in a 42HP bike vs. 44HP...

I track a Yamaha FZ-07 that I modded to the hilt- intake, exhaust, ECU flash, crash protection, high-end suspension components (front & rear), brakes, tires, and probably more stuff that I'm forgetting.... It's GREAT fun at the track where I benefit from all of those components. That being said, I also have a 2019 R3 that I use in the street. All I upgraded was suspension, braided brake lines, and a slip-on exhaust. For street use, the suspension is something you will enjoy EVERY time you ride it. Doesn't matter how many rpm your motor is turning. You just get a better riding experience on every ride. For the cost of that kit, you could easily upgrade suspension, brakes, and slip-on exhaust for about the same money. Obviously, your an adult, and going to ultimately make your own choice. I just thought I would share my experience. Hope that helps-
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I appreciate your honest opinion. You have a very realistic view from streetbike vs track machine.

I dont always want to be in redline to get the extra power but theres a lot of times when i ride my bike like i stole it.
Your right about the suspention and could you recommend a rear shock? Im 135lbs and no matter what setting, i get bucked off the seat hitting bumps on these awesome IL roads and would love to smooth that rear shock so im not hopping off the seat.
I am a person of reason and responsible but whats an adult? ?

Ive been looking at slip ons and while it would reduce some weight it wouldnt do anything for performance and as expensive as they are i would rather pay the extra $ to get a full system and unlease the beast...
The only thing with that is i wouldnt do it without a tune to equal the a/f ratio as i do a ton of riding when its warm and dont want the motor running extra lean.
Besides that im looking to get adjustable shorty levers and the r6 theottle tube.
Also looking into lighter steel sprockets and going down 1 tooth in the front as this is a road bike and i easily get to 100 without a need to go and faster...
I just got a denali sound bomb air horn to increase bike awareness.
Thank you for you for a realistic view on whats more important.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also to add... i bought my r3 brand new 10 months ago with .2 miles... it now has 8200 miles and the oem exhaust is rusting on theheaders and cat.

I now its a issue with the cheap finish that isnt on anymore so thats a huge reason for me wanting to upgrade to a quality exhaust.
 

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I'm glad I got your attention.... My 2019 has rust starting to form on the headers with 700 only miles on the clock.... I'm going to pull the headers this summer, and coat them with high temperature black stove paint. What year is your R3??? I'm only asking because the front end/forks changed in 2019. I own both a 2016 & 2019 Yamaha R3. The forks got "updated" in 2019. My personal opinion, is the first generation (2015-2018) is much easier to upgrade. The rear suspension on every R3 is "for amusement only".... They give you something to play with, but my opinion is it's more of a "placebo-effect"... I run a K-Tech Razor "Lite" rear shock on both my R3's. It's a substantial upgrade over the OEM shock. You can pick one up for an MSRP of $495 (sprung for your weight). The only adjustments are preload, and rebound. The "preload" isn't all that important, nor is "sag".... The "rebound dampening" is what really matters. Once you get the correct spring rate for your personal body weight, everything else just falls into place. As far as the font end/forks, the pre-2019 version is MUCH easier to upgrade... For the pre-2019 forks, I recommend contacting www.racetech.com for springs & "Gold Valve" emulators- a total cost of about $300. The 2019+ forks, I recommend the Ohlins FSK-143 "street-kit" (MSRP of $250). The 2019+ Ohlins kit gives you all the springs to tune it to your ideal weight. I recently installed it on my 2019, and I'm VERY happy with the results. As for a slip-on exhaust.... Know one wants their bike to sound like a sewing machine. Akrapovic makes a GP "slip-on" that retails for about $275. You can easily buy a used one for $200 off this site. The packing inside doesn't really wear out. It's designed mostly for "weight savings", and an added "bling-factor", but most likely won't add any performance to our beloved 42 HP bikes... Lets's be honest, most riders are just after the "sound" rather than performance. It bolts on, and requires ZERO modifications to intake/fueling. Hope that helps you out-
 

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Experienced-rider opinion (I have an R3 race bike).

Skip all of the race-oriented ECUs. The stuff that they do isn't going to be a benefit in a street-riding application. The ones that disable the oxygen sensor and essentially tune the engine in open-loop mode ... are going to kill your gas mileage and range. (P.S. I have the Norton ECU and like it for how I use the bike (racing) ... BUT ... I also have a PowerCommander, and I made rather enormous map changes in the direction of leaning it out at part throttle. It's way too rich down there - like 11-and-change air/fuel ratio.)

Skip the velocity stacks unless you are spending all the time riding near redline (as on a race bike). If anything, the longer stock velocity stacks will be better for street-riding. The stock velocity stacks are set up to work best in the 8000 rpm range.

Change the exhaust system if you want. If you buy a full exhaust system, transfer the stock oxygen sensor to the new exhaust. If you do this, buy a PowerCommander and get it mapped for your bike. DON'T install the thing that PowerCommander gives you that is supposed to "optimize" (i.e. bypass) the oxygen sensor. Runs obnoxiously rich if you plug it in and you can't properly tune around it. Leave the O2 sensor and let the bike run in closed-loop at part throttle (as it was designed to do).

The open airbox cover doesn't make much difference at more-or-less-stock performance levels. What little difference there is, is way up at the top of the rev range. For a street bike - not worth bothering. The stock snorkel is enough.

Stuff that you should do ...

Suspension. (I have Ohlins front and rear. It's good.)

Rearsets and handlebars if you want to fine-tune the riding position. Norton Motorsports has a great article on their site explaining what works and for what purpose.

Braided brake lines on a non-ABS version. I can't speak for whether these play nice with an ABS model. (Mine doesn't have it)
 

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GoFaster and Cornerslider, I saw the ECU tunes can lower the engine braking by removing the sudden fuel cutoff when shifting. To an inexperienced rider like me, this sounds like a great change for day to day street riding especially when downshifting to 2nd gear for turns. What are your thoughts on that?
 

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With less engine braking, it's easier to be smooth when shifting. I don't have my R3 flashed, but my FZ-07 is. After I got it flashed, I enjoyed in much more. I can't speak from first hand experience on the r3 though-
 

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The extent of my riding an R3 with stock ECU programming was to a local coffee shop and back to see what I was in for, after I bought the bike. I did not find the deceleration fuel cut to be objectionable.
 

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The decel fuel cut is my only complaint with the bike. Not so much in daily commuting, but when I'm trying to enjoy a little more aggressive ride on the curvy backroads, it's a lot more than I want to feel when rolling off the throttle in a sharp curve. Still, I can't justify the expense of a re-flash, so I'll put up with it.
 

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Did any of you guys check out the video? I'm thinking about getting the package as well and if you get a 20% increase in HP and 15% in torque in a 320cc bike those are some pretty impressive upgrades though they do give you another 1000rpm for redlining on the track but if you drop a tooth with that I think it'd be a decent investment with the numbers they were showing and you save about 300$ by getting the package
 

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Read post #9 ... it applies to you as well. Race bike? Go for it but expect to spend some time and money on a dyno doing some tuning. Street bike? See post #9.
 
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