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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could someone please provide a step by step 'how to' for washing the matte r3?

Ive heard use windex etc

But also heard about 100 different methods so if a owner can let me know there process that would be great
 

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check the operators manual

me personally Id just fill up a bucket of water with some car soap grab some micro fibre cloths and and give errrr not like the finish will melt off or anything
 

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Stick with a gentle dish soap and some warm water and you'll be fine. Honestly most cleaners will be fine. I use windex on my matte black RS-1 helmet and have no issues.

The real issue with matte finishes is scratching, normal washing won't hurt the finish. Just make sure you wash/clean it with something non-abrasive.
 

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Regardless of color, the key is to keep it wet until you're ready to dry. I use the same liquid car wash/hot water I use on our cars, rinse and then use a slightly damp microfiber towel to dry. You can also go for a ride to dry it off.
 

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step 1: don your daizy dukes

step 2: wear a tiny shirt with the mid drift generously exposed

step 3: make sure your neighbors are outside

step 4: play the song "milkshake" by kelis

step 5: dump a lot of water on yourself while you giggle and flirtatiously smile at neighbors

step 6: rub your wet soaking body all over the bike

step 6: dry the bike

repeat as needed if you tie your hair up in pigtails its a bonus!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hahahaha!!!!

IF by any chance anyone is wondering about this i bought the matte set from chemical guys and they have a ton of videos for instructions etc :)
 

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When I was in Junior College, I worked at a auto detailing place for a few years. There are tons of different methods and chemicals out there. For bikes it is a little different, but I'll go over some general things.

Like dude said before, gentle soap/water is fine for most of the bike for general cleaning. Most of the dirty area will be below the midpoint of the bike which we call the "descum line." Below that is where you want to use some better cleaner in case you have ovespray from tar, paint, etc.

You will want to have on hand:

car washing soap or gentle soap like Dawn (soaps can take the oils out of paint)
Bug & tar cleaner
brake cleaner-useful for scummy areas, brakes obviously, etc
WD-40-good for several uses and for coating bare metal areas.
Metal polish
plastic polish

When cleaning focus on the descum line with the "heavie" cleaners. You might only need water and a rag for the upper parts of the bike. Clean the specific areas with the right cleaner, i.e. plastic with plastic cleaner, metal with metal polish, obviously.

You will want to have a light compound and polish for scuffs on the paint. Also, get a clay bar and a clay lubricant-usually a quick detailing spray. Divide your bike into sections and spray the lubricant. Buff the clay bar on the section running the paint with moderate pressure. It pulls out contaminants, foreign material, overspray, etc. Wipe with a dry cloth.

Use compound for scuffs and marks.

Use polish to smooth out compound

Use Hand glaze for shine enhancement and filling

Finish with a good canuba wax like Pinnacle or Zymol

For dressing, you want a Vinyl, Rubber, and Plastic dressing for those types of materials, and for leather, something good like Zymol. You can make your bike shine like a diamond in a goat's ass. Keep pride in your bike, and clean it and care for it often. There is nothing like a shiny bike!

There are some nice care kits. I have an S100 kit and a Zymol kit. S100 is a budget kit, but no means cheap. The Zymol kit is pretty expensive but nothing like thie rhigh end stuff which is stupid sily expensive. Like $800 for a jar! You can get the Zymol Carbon which is for Japanese paints for like $55. That jar will last you for years, but you should keep it refrigerated. The Zymol motorcycle kit is called "Talon" and runs about $80. The S100 kit is like $35. You could get the S100 kit as you base and a jar of Zymol wax, which is great. Again, I have a jar of Zymol Carbon (dark colors) and Zymol Japon (Japanese paints), and I've had them since like 2002, and both are not even half used. You can also get a set of sample from Zymol, which gives you a small jar of each type of several wax types.

S100 link

Zymol link

Remember to get a good clay bar and lubricant. Meguiar's, 3M, Mother's. I like Auto-Geek.net for my auto/bike detailing chemical shopping needs. I am not affiliated with any company I have mentioned. I have used them as a professional and personally and like them for their quality, services, etc. Anyway, Auto-Geek.net has guides, reviews, etc and everything you need. Get good cloths for waxing that are soft and keep rags separated. Use rougher cloths for compounding and polishing. Keep wax removal cloths separate. This will avoid scuffing your paint. You'll need applicators for vinyl dressing, etc. Also, having a vinyl toothbrush is handy for getting gunk out of small cracks and crevices.

That's the gist. I could go on and on about methods and procedure. But once you build up a little kit and you work out your own method, you'll be good to go. I don't look at it like a chore, it's fun to me. I detailed enough cars in junior college and after my waste year after high school for a lifetime. I am so sick of it and that was years ago. I do my Mom's car and my own, and those are a chore as it takes me a good 4 hours per car, but the R3 is a different story. I pride myself on keeping it clean and shiny. :)
 

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Too much like hard work i've only ever used water on my bikes,then dry and use a good quality polish like MER now and again.More time for riding.
Not to be used on matte colours.Just use water tha's all i used on my Denim Black XR1200 and that looked showroom when i sold it
 
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