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Discussion Starter #1
i have an extra $550 and was just wonder what are some first mods i should do to the bike. if you guys could help out with suggestions that would be great also leave a link to the parts if you can
 

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I'm curious to see what others recommend. My thought process comes from track riding, which goes something like this:

First Priority, controls, ergonomics, safety guards:
-adjust stock suspension to suit rider
-adjust or replace levers to suit rider
-adjust or replace clip-ons to suit rider
-adjust or replace rearsets to suit rider
-SS or kevlar front brake lines
-replace front brake pads if the stock ones suck, they usually suck
-add stomp grips
-woodcraft shark guard
-case covers
-fuel tank guards if necessary for your bike
-radiator guard
-fiberglass bodywork
-proper riding gear
(I don't believe in frame sliders for track riding, I think they cause more harm than good on the race track)

Second Priority, handling:
-replace tires with appropriate
-suspension upgrades, depends on the bike, but usually fork cartridges or cartridge emulators first, then shock upgrade second

Third Priority, more power:
-modified or aftermarket shorter throttle throw
-change chain size and gear ratio
-full exhaust, air filter, fuel controller (these go together, no point doing one without the others)

Extras if you have the money, put them in anywhere after the first priority stuff is done:
-ECU flash
-quickshifter
-traction control
-slipper clutch
-aftermarket wheels, magnesium, carbon, etc.
-lighter battery
-engine build
-windtunnel tested helmet like Shoie, Arai or one of the other quality ones out now, these are generally >$300

I guess for street riding, the only differences might be that you don't need fiberglass bodywork, a slipon exhaust may be enough, you might want to change cosmetics like integrated taillight or undertail from hotbodies, different turn signals, and I HIGHLY recommend HID headlights so you can actually see and be seen at night. Frame sliders on the street are up to you, I don't recommend them on the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yeah i was thinking fender eliminator. idk about spending 100 on just a little plate lol. i guess it does look nice compared to the others but i might just end up going with the vagabond one. thanks for the links!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm curious to see what others recommend. My thought process comes from track riding, which goes something like this:

First Priority, controls, ergonomics, safety guards:
-adjust stock suspension to suit rider
-adjust or replace levers to suit rider
-adjust or replace clip-ons to suit rider
-adjust or replace rearsets to suit rider
-SS or kevlar front brake lines
-replace front brake pads if the stock ones suck, they usually suck
-add stomp grips
-woodcraft shark guard
-case covers
-fuel tank guards if necessary for your bike
-radiator guard
-fiberglass bodywork
-proper riding gear
(I don't believe in frame sliders for track riding, I think they cause more harm than good on the race track)

Second Priority, handling:
-replace tires with appropriate
-suspension upgrades, depends on the bike, but usually fork cartridges or cartridge emulators first, then shock upgrade second

Third Priority, more power:
-modified or aftermarket shorter throttle throw
-change chain size and gear ratio
-full exhaust, air filter, fuel controller (these go together, no point doing one without the others)

Extras if you have the money, put them in anywhere after the first priority stuff is done:
-ECU flash
-quickshifter
-traction control
-slipper clutch
-aftermarket wheels, magnesium, carbon, etc.
-lighter battery
-engine build
-windtunnel tested helmet like Shoie, Arai or one of the other quality ones out now, these are generally >$300

I guess for street riding, the only differences might be that you don't need fiberglass bodywork, a slipon exhaust may be enough, you might want to change cosmetics like integrated taillight or undertail from hotbodies, different turn signals, and I HIGHLY recommend HID headlights so you can actually see and be seen at night. Frame sliders on the street are up to you, I don't recommend them on the track.
this is alot of useful information to save for later i appreciate it. i wont be hitting the track anytime soon maybe in about a year or so when i get more seat time and more comfortable with the bike hahaha. so are the stock levers, shocks, rear sets, and clip ons adjustable or do i need to get aftermarket ones to adjust them?
 

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this is alot of useful information to save for later i appreciate it. i wont be hitting the track anytime soon maybe in about a year or so when i get more seat time and more comfortable with the bike hahaha. so are the stock levers, shocks, rear sets, and clip ons adjustable or do i need to get aftermarket ones to adjust them?
Unfortunately the stock levers and rearsets are not adjustable on the R3. You'll probably be ok with the levers as long as the brake is in a comfortable position for you. The rearset position is also less important on a bike like the R3 because it doesn't have the dramatic weight transfer of a more powerful bike. With a bigger bike, it's critital to position the rearsets where you can support your weight primarily with your legs during acceleration and deceleration. Too far back causes your weight to fall too heavily on your arms during braking and cornering, too far forward causes you to have to hang on too tight with your hands during acceleration. Height should be adjusted so you can grip the tank firmly with your knee while braking and cornering, and this will usually give you better ground clearance as well.

The shock can only be adjusted for preload, but be sure to adjust it to your weight. If your goal is to progress as a rider and eventually go to the track, then adjustable rearsets like the ones made by Vortex and some of the ones made by Gilles and Woodcraft will allow you to position the pegs exactly where they feel best to you and where you feel the most controlled and stable while riding. This stability will relax you and give you confidence, and with confidence comes speed and safety.

The stock clipons are very upright for comfort and stability for new riders riding around town. If you want to ride the R3 aggressively, eventually on the track, you will also likely want to change the clipon position, either by moving the stock ones below the triple clamp, or replacing them with aftermarket ones, again Woodcraft and Vortex make great clipons. I'll be testing the Vortex ones here pretty soon to see which ones fit the best on the R3 since they make 2 styles.
 

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Interesting..
The ONLY thing I would do with the R3 is stick a louder pipe on it to give it more character.
I thought it was a pretty good bike off the shelf.

I;d rather leave it stock and save the money instead to get an older R6, etc, to track or chuck around with abandon.
 

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I haven't been able to find any levers or rearsets from Vortex or Woodcraft for this bike. Nor much of anything else that I am looking for, I bought this bike for track riding.
Need to find some brakelines and grips.

Why don't you like frame sliders on the track?
I'm curious for the reasoning, probably something that I haven't thought of.


I'm curious to see what others recommend. My thought process comes from track riding, which goes something like this:

First Priority, controls, ergonomics, safety guards:
-adjust stock suspension to suit rider
-adjust or replace levers to suit rider
-adjust or replace clip-ons to suit rider
-adjust or replace rearsets to suit rider
-SS or kevlar front brake lines
-replace front brake pads if the stock ones suck, they usually suck
-add stomp grips
-woodcraft shark guard
-case covers
-fuel tank guards if necessary for your bike
-radiator guard
-fiberglass bodywork
-proper riding gear
(I don't believe in frame sliders for track riding, I think they cause more harm than good on the race track)

Second Priority, handling:
-replace tires with appropriate
-suspension upgrades, depends on the bike, but usually fork cartridges or cartridge emulators first, then shock upgrade second

Third Priority, more power:
-modified or aftermarket shorter throttle throw
-change chain size and gear ratio
-full exhaust, air filter, fuel controller (these go together, no point doing one without the others)

Extras if you have the money, put them in anywhere after the first priority stuff is done:
-ECU flash
-quickshifter
-traction control
-slipper clutch
-aftermarket wheels, magnesium, carbon, etc.
-lighter battery
-engine build
-windtunnel tested helmet like Shoie, Arai or one of the other quality ones out now, these are generally >$300

I guess for street riding, the only differences might be that you don't need fiberglass bodywork, a slipon exhaust may be enough, you might want to change cosmetics like integrated taillight or undertail from hotbodies, different turn signals, and I HIGHLY recommend HID headlights so you can actually see and be seen at night. Frame sliders on the street are up to you, I don't recommend them on the track.
 

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yeah i was thinking fender eliminator. idk about spending 100 on just a little plate lol. i guess it does look nice compared to the others but i might just end up going with the vagabond one. thanks for the links!
I just put the vagabond eliminator on mine. It installed easily and looks 10 times better than the giant plastic stock fender. I'd say without a doubt that for $69 there is no other mod that will dramatically improve the look of your bike like this one. Simple and cheap. leaves you the option of adding led signals later if you choose to.

I might order the rear seat cowl from Yamaha as well. Nice because the paint is matched.


Like to get adjustable shorty levers someday but no rush. By next year there will be tons of aftermarket parts on the market.
 

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I thought about the Fender eliminator but after looking at it some more its not that bad to me. The rear completely gone with a FE seems almost too empty there.
I am going to put some radical tires on the bike soon, if it buys me 20% better traction on the curves and better braking its worth it for the safety part.
I got these http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/shinko-sr-880-881-tires
I trusted Shinko because of the reviews, I can't believe so many people can be wrong about Shinko tires, they really do get good reviews and the price is only 42 dollars more than the cheapest bias tire I could find for the set which were the Duro H918. If anyone in Seattle wants to buy my Pilot streets tires let me know.
 

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Frame sliders don't really do anything when you crash, they don't protect the bodywork, it gets rashed up anyway, and they don't protect the frame. In my experience, they only cause more damage to the frame by bending or breaking the motor mounts or frame where they attach. They also sometimes cause a gently lowsiding bike to flip over because they catch the edge of the track or the dirt as it slides, causing far more damage to the bike. I have never seen them cause less damage to a crashed bike that was going more than a few miles per hour. Case guards and tank sliders will do far more to protect your sliding bike and will not cause additional damage. Have you ever seen frame sliders on a pro race team's bike?

Vortex has clip-ons out already which I'll be testing here shortly, but most of the companies are still building all the other hard parts such as rear sets, levers, case covers, etc. They will all be out in the next month or 2 I'm sure and you'll here from me as soon as any of them are available :)

I haven't been able to find any levers or rearsets from Vortex or Woodcraft for this bike. Nor much of anything else that I am looking for, I bought this bike for track riding.
Need to find some brakelines and grips.

Why don't you like frame sliders on the track?
I'm curious for the reasoning, probably something that I haven't thought of.
 

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Nick,


The first "mods" regardless of what you're using the bike for is always............Springs and Sprockets.


Track, Street, On/Off Road or Adventure.............always springs and sprockets first. Think that bike your on was sprung for your weight or any other members weight and application? Nope. Nada. Uh uh........ It's sprung for a 140 lbs rider in the rear to a 280lbs in the front. Why? Because every manufacturer wants to sell them safely to everyone who wants one!


You got an extra 550 bucks, R/R the front and rear springs, See if you like the RPMS on the road at highway speed, or is this just for a city application? The gearing up or down will make it more responsive or less noisy/vibrations at max!


Cheers and enjoy the machine!
 

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Rider training always...

I'm not knocking your skills, i am a newb myself. Knowing your bike and how to control it will yield more thrills than any mod can give.
 

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Oh ok, I see what you mean now, I was thinking all sliders, just the stupid frame slider pucks. I have been trying to find some case guards that would fit, haven't seen any tank guards from anyone either. Probably down the road, also waiting to see when the body kits are going to be out.

I saw the Vortex clip-ons, interested in them, will wait to see what you think of them. Will probably be putting the Yoshi full system on, to cut some weight there also, I don't care for the Akra GP pipe so much.
I was surprised that there aren't that many high end tires in the size to fit this bike.

I'm looking at putting the Annitori QS and the ZFi on this bike.


Frame sliders don't really do anything when you crash, they don't protect the bodywork, it gets rashed up anyway, and they don't protect the frame. In my experience, they only cause more damage to the frame by bending or breaking the motor mounts or frame where they attach. They also sometimes cause a gently lowsiding bike to flip over because they catch the edge of the track or the dirt as it slides, causing far more damage to the bike. I have never seen them cause less damage to a crashed bike that was going more than a few miles per hour. Case guards and tank sliders will do far more to protect your sliding bike and will not cause additional damage. Have you ever seen frame sliders on a pro race team's bike?

Vortex has clip-ons out already which I'll be testing here shortly, but most of the companies are still building all the other hard parts such as rear sets, levers, case covers, etc. They will all be out in the next month or 2 I'm sure and you'll here from me as soon as any of them are available :)
 

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My process, as a non racer, focused on economic and relaxed street riding, would be:

-check air filter at high RPM. If the engine sucks the filter out of my hands, it's creating enough 'vacuum', to change the air filter.
If the filter does not offer a lot of resistance, even at 10k rpm, I leave it in.

- I would adjust pegs, brake, gear pedal, handlebar height, levers, mirrors, suspension, and if possible windshield, to fit my desires.

-I would only change the stock exhaust, for sound/noise purposes, or for weight purposes. But generally would leave it stock.
I want to save money, so leave as much stock as I can. Exhaust is a low priority mod for me anyway, since I don't see myself taking the bike all out.

- I would determine my sprockets, based on how I want to ride it. From fuel friendly (max eco), to top speed centered, or somewhere in between, that makes the bike ride fine at city speeds!
More than likely, I will want at least 20-25% better fuel efficiency at low speeds, and gear it like that.

- I would mix and match oil weight. Between 5w30 and 10w40, to find my perfect mixture.

- I would buy crash protection pegs and studs, and install them.

- On my non-R3 bikes I usually try to find luggage or storage options, since I often do longer rides.

- smaller gadgets, like throttle cruise control clamp, or something..
 

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Nick,


The first "mods" regardless of what you're using the bike for is always............Springs and Sprockets.

Depends,
If you're going to mod the engine's performance, sprockets should be changed after.
You can do sprockets in the beginning, but if through a fuel remapping, better air filter, and timing advance change you can change the engine's performance, you'd have to re-gear the bike.
 

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Probably a whole lot of front sprockets available on ebay or Amazon.
You just got to get the right one.

Rear sprockets you can buy the $50-75 high grade aluminum sprockets, or double the price for titanium ones.
I don't know if rebelgears has them in their catalog yet, but you could always send measurments of the stock sprocket, or send them the stock sprocket, and ask them to make the new tooth count sprocket.

I have no experience with the titanium sprocket manufacturers, since most of my riding is city, and I usually baby my bikes.
(They cost too much money)
 

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First thing that I changed on mine was the mirrors. I put bar end mirrors which helped out a lot on my vision. I can see a lot more which Is good for safety. And for looks vagabond fender eliminator and led turn signals. Up next for me will be ss brake lines. For exhaust mine already came with Yoshimura R3 from the dealer, if not exhaust is always important to me...I like people to hear me coming. Mainly It all depends on what you are trying to go for, looks, Safety or performance in my opinion. What's most important to you?
 
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