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What are you guys going to do to the r3 once you get it?

At first I was thinking of just leaving it completely stock but the more I look at the bike the more I want to do to it.

My first mods that I will do when I get the bike:

- Fender eliminator with integrated turn signals. Will look much nicer.

- Flush mount front turn signals. Stock ones are ugly. Plus it seems they wobble around a lot.

I would eventually get :

- Solo seat cowl. It doesn't bug me for now but would look nicer. Also would deter some idiot friends who would want to ride in the back.

In the future, maybe never:

-Full system exhaust, k&n filter and flash/pcv

This might greatly change once I actually get the bike and start riding it. For now these are the things I want on my bike .

What would you guys do to the bike?
 

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I plan on keeping it rather simple for now.

Fender eliminator and sliders for me will be a must.
Want to get really used to it in stock form before I venture out into modifications and any other accessories.
 

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After warranty is off, I will try to drop some weight from the bike. A Shorai battery and a lighter slip-on which should also improve the sound. I would like to lose 10 lbs.
 

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In the works. Have some already and will purchase the rest as they become available:

Yamaha Rear Seat cowl (have now)
Yamaha Frame sliders (have now)
Rizoma ‘URLO’ grips
Rizoma mirrors (once adapters are available) (have now)
Rearsets (have now)
Halo-1 flush turn signals (front) (TST)
Yamaha Europe LED turn signals (rear) (have now)
Delkevic DS70 slip-on (once they engineer it)
Rear tire hugger
Vagabond Sports Tail Tidy
Adjustable CNC aluminum levers (have now)
Fork sliders (TST)
Swingarm spools/sliders (TST)
Bar ends (TST)
Sidestand foot enlarger (GIVI or SW Motech)
TechSpec tank pads
Exhaust slider/protector
Silver rim tape (have now)
Gel seat (new seat or Retro-fit OEM)
PUIG windscreen
 

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Can you post a pic of your bike, would like to see what the mods look like.

Thanks.

In the works. Have some already and will purchase the rest as they become available:

Yamaha Rear Seat cowl (have now)
Yamaha Frame sliders (have now)
Rizoma ‘URLO’ grips
Rizoma mirrors (once adapters are available) (have now)
Rearsets (have now)
Halo-1 flush turn signals (front) (TST)
Yamaha Europe LED turn signals (rear) (have now)
Delkevic DS70 slip-on (once they engineer it)
Rear tire hugger
Vagabond Sports Tail Tidy
Adjustable CNC aluminum levers (have now)
Fork sliders (TST)
Swingarm spools/sliders (TST)
Bar ends (TST)
Sidestand foot enlarger (GIVI or SW Motech)
TechSpec tank pads
Exhaust slider/protector
Silver rim tape (have now)
Gel seat (new seat or Retro-fit OEM)
PUIG windscreen
 

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As my name says, I will try to find ways to ride more economically on this bike, while still being able to maintain nearly identical top speed, AND make the bike easier to shift through town. (This meaning, I don't have to shift through 6 gears to get to 40mph, but can do it in 4 gears to get to same rpm as stock).

It's all in my 3 years research, and 4 bikes I've had before, as well as the many nice forum users that helped me along the way with their experiences.

The procedure is simple.
I ride the bike stock, and determine how it departs in 1st gear.
If I can literally flick the clutch into gear, and be doing like 20-30mph at 10k rpm, I know I'll have plenty of free play to install taller gears.
I presume the R3 departs easily in 2nd gear, so this won't be a problem.

Second I test out the top speed of the bike.
If the bike reaches the rev-limiter in highest gear, I will know it's undergeared.

Third, I will look at the HP curve, and see where the bike makes peak HP.
peak HP is well before the rev limiter, and is the range where the bike goes fastest.
I believe on this bike that peak hp is at 10.5k rpm.
That means, if my bike accelerates to top speed, and holds at 11,5k rpm, 1k rpm below the redline, and 1k rpm above peak hp, then I know I'll have to gear the bike, to drop those 1k rpms.
That would give me the bike's true top speed, usually 1 to 3 mph faster than stock.
Usually a simple front cog swap to a +1t would do that.
I only do this for testing purposes, when the bike already has 1k miles on it, however I probably will just skip this step in this case, and base my cog on calculations in gearing commander as well as based upon the Torque/hp graph, in order to get best mpg.

I think on this bike, top speed matters less than on a 250cc, where I need every mile per hour available to keep up on the interstates! (Doing 85 mph).
I don't think I have many places, other than the tracks to test out the top speed of the bike.
On a 250 I needed this step, to know what optimal gear ratio is for the bike to get to maximum speed, and try to get that ratio in 5th or 4th gear, instead of 6th, because I would regularly ride at those top speeds. I doubt it will be the case on the R3, riding on the freeway, I probably will get it upto 90 or 95mph though!

Skipping the above step, I will determine maximum front sprocket size, and swap out the front one.
if a +2t fits, I'll install it. If a +3t fits, I'll install that. But I expect to fit a +1t in it. Anything larger would be a pleasant surprise for me!

I will calculate the numbers, and test ride the bike to verify how it handles with the new front sprocket.
Since my aim is to ride the bike economically, I will try to lower the engine revs as much as I can, when riding at the speeds I ride most often at.
My goal would be to reach almost 100mpg, more realistically I will likely be able to get it upto about 85mpg, with anything higher than 85mpg as a bonus.
In order to do that, the R3 needs to be geared heavier than the stock gearing on my Rebel250, or identical to what I have it geared right now.

If the R3 engine is as good as the specs say it is, and outdoes a Honda 234cc engine, I more than likely will gear it exactly like my Rebel, which currently gets about 30mph @2500rpm, or 40mph @3k rpm, and 95mpg at those speeds!

Looking from the specs, if the R3 has a 14t front, and a 47t rear, I'd probably have to go for a 15/37t or 16/38t setup, which is quite a drastic change.
Without their numbers inserted in gearing commander, I would not be able to determine if those gears are feasible, but guessing, I'd say that the R3 should get to top speed in 4th gear, and do 2.5k rpm at 30mph, and still have enough acceleration to leave cars behind on a red light, yet at the same time, purr through city and suburban traffic at 2500 to 4000 rpms that will keep the engine going for decades!

High rpm, and too low rpm wears an engine. The trick is to keep low rpm, without lugging, which is ok for easy riders, not for the tracks, or racing.

Doing those sprocket setups will get mpg up from 57MPG to 80MPG, which is a good start to see how the engine will take this.

I will have to feel if it lugs at lower rpm when departing, and where the lowest rpm range is that the bike cruises comfortably, without stutter or lugging.
If the engine doesn't perform as I had hoped, and that optimal cruising range is around higher than the 2.5k rpm, (at a speed of about 30mph), I'd probably have to recalculate, re-gear, and make less good mpg numbers.

But most of the time, just holding a continuous speed of 35-50mph, the engine can easily maintain at 2500+rpms, and accelerate like cars in traffic do, or faster!
My 234cc does it, with same gears.
I would presume the R3 engine has more power than the 250 Rebel engine, and should be able to do this as well!
 

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Can you post a pic of your bike, would like to see what the mods look like.

Thanks.
I only have the cowl and the levers on so far. I'll post photos when more of the "Coming Soon" parts are actually available and I've purchased and installed them.

It could be a few weeks or months since some of the companies still need to get their hands on an R3 before they can finalize fitment and start producing them.
 

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As my name says, I will try to find ways to ride more economically on this bike, while still being able to maintain nearly identical top speed, AND make the bike easier to shift through town. (This meaning, I don't have to shift through 6 gears to get to 40mph, but can do it in 4 gears to get to same rpm as stock).

It's all in my 3 years research, and 4 bikes I've had before, as well as the many nice forum users that helped me along the way with their experiences.

The procedure is simple.
I ride the bike stock, and determine how it departs in 1st gear.
If I can literally flick the clutch into gear, and be doing like 20-30mph at 10k rpm, I know I'll have plenty of free play to install taller gears.
I presume the R3 departs easily in 2nd gear, so this won't be a problem.

Second I test out the top speed of the bike.
If the bike reaches the rev-limiter in highest gear, I will know it's undergeared.

Third, I will look at the HP curve, and see where the bike makes peak HP.
peak HP is well before the rev limiter, and is the range where the bike goes fastest.
I believe on this bike that peak hp is at 10.5k rpm.
That means, if my bike accelerates to top speed, and holds at 11,5k rpm, 1k rpm below the redline, and 1k rpm above peak hp, then I know I'll have to gear the bike, to drop those 1k rpms.
That would give me the bike's true top speed, usually 1 to 3 mph faster than stock.
Usually a simple front cog swap to a +1t would do that.
I only do this for testing purposes, when the bike already has 1k miles on it, however I probably will just skip this step in this case, and base my cog on calculations in gearing commander as well as based upon the Torque/hp graph, in order to get best mpg.

I think on this bike, top speed matters less than on a 250cc, where I need every mile per hour available to keep up on the interstates! (Doing 85 mph).
I don't think I have many places, other than the tracks to test out the top speed of the bike.
On a 250 I needed this step, to know what optimal gear ratio is for the bike to get to maximum speed, and try to get that ratio in 5th or 4th gear, instead of 6th, because I would regularly ride at those top speeds. I doubt it will be the case on the R3, riding on the freeway, I probably will get it upto 90 or 95mph though!

Skipping the above step, I will determine maximum front sprocket size, and swap out the front one.
if a +2t fits, I'll install it. If a +3t fits, I'll install that. But I expect to fit a +1t in it. Anything larger would be a pleasant surprise for me!

I will calculate the numbers, and test ride the bike to verify how it handles with the new front sprocket.
Since my aim is to ride the bike economically, I will try to lower the engine revs as much as I can, when riding at the speeds I ride most often at.
My goal would be to reach almost 100mpg, more realistically I will likely be able to get it upto about 85mpg, with anything higher than 85mpg as a bonus.
In order to do that, the R3 needs to be geared heavier than the stock gearing on my Rebel250, or identical to what I have it geared right now.

If the R3 engine is as good as the specs say it is, and outdoes a Honda 234cc engine, I more than likely will gear it exactly like my Rebel, which currently gets about 30mph @2500rpm, or 40mph @3k rpm, and 95mpg at those speeds!

Looking from the specs, if the R3 has a 14t front, and a 47t rear, I'd probably have to go for a 15/37t or 16/38t setup, which is quite a drastic change.
Without their numbers inserted in gearing commander, I would not be able to determine if those gears are feasible, but guessing, I'd say that the R3 should get to top speed in 4th gear, and do 2.5k rpm at 30mph, and still have enough acceleration to leave cars behind on a red light, yet at the same time, purr through city and suburban traffic at 2500 to 4000 rpms that will keep the engine going for decades!

High rpm, and too low rpm wears an engine. The trick is to keep low rpm, without lugging, which is ok for easy riders, not for the tracks, or racing.

Doing those sprocket setups will get mpg up from 57MPG to 80MPG, which is a good start to see how the engine will take this.

I will have to feel if it lugs at lower rpm when departing, and where the lowest rpm range is that the bike cruises comfortably, without stutter or lugging.
If the engine doesn't perform as I had hoped, and that optimal cruising range is around higher than the 2.5k rpm, (at a speed of about 30mph), I'd probably have to recalculate, re-gear, and make less good mpg numbers.

But most of the time, just holding a continuous speed of 35-50mph, the engine can easily maintain at 2500+rpms, and accelerate like cars in traffic do, or faster!
My 234cc does it, with same gears.
I would presume the R3 engine has more power than the 250 Rebel engine, and should be able to do this as well!
It will be interesting to see what gearing you come up with if you decide to buy the R3. I appreciate your ongoing research efforts and willingness to share the results. Cheers!
 

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Please let me know when you install the Yamaha frame sliders. I would like to know what they are like.

I only have the cowl and the levers on so far. I'll post photos when more of the "Coming Soon" parts are actually available and I've purchased and installed them.

It could be a few weeks or months since some of the companies still need to get their hands on an R3 before they can finalize fitment and start producing them.
 

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In the works. Have some already and will purchase the rest as they become available:

Yamaha Rear Seat cowl (have now)
Yamaha Frame sliders (have now)
Rizoma ?URLO? grips
Rizoma mirrors (once adapters are available) (have now)
Rearsets (have now)
Halo-1 flush turn signals (front) (TST)
Yamaha Europe LED turn signals (rear) (have now)
Delkevic DS70 slip-on (once they engineer it)
Rear tire hugger
Vagabond Sports Tail Tidy
Adjustable CNC aluminum levers (have now)
Fork sliders (TST)
Swingarm spools/sliders (TST)
Bar ends (TST)
Sidestand foot enlarger (GIVI or SW Motech)
TechSpec tank pads
Exhaust slider/protector
Silver rim tape (have now)
Gel seat (new seat or Retro-fit OEM)
PUIG windscreen
Where did you find the adjustable levers? I can't even find a part number for oem ones. Do levers from an R6 work? What year? Any help would be great!
 

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Ravaloft:

Sorry, my pop-up blocker wouldn't allow a private message to show

The seller I got my levers from doesn't show on eBay at the moment, but I found these:

These are the folding ones.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281460273875?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Non-folding are cheaper:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281460282517?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The YZF-R25 is mostly the same bike as the R3. I took a chance and bought levers listed for the R25 and they fit perfectly on my R3

This seller Halfoxstore, has more colors listed.
 

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Like everybody else, the first thing I did was a fender eliminator and solo cowl. Rear stand spools were a must, along with removing the warning stickers on tank and windscreen (I already knew that a brillo pad would ruin the plastic, and that putting diesel fuel in the tank would ruin the engine). I'm in the process of getting the right paint codes for the white and red, so that I can paint the top of the tank, the "z" of the side panels, and the bottom sides of the tail white, and the black parts of the side fairings red. Trying for a more late 1980s/early 90s Yamaha paint scheme (still missing my RZ350--see avatar).
 

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Vagabond fender eliminator (ordered)
Woodcraft rear spools (ordered)
R&G frame sliders (ordered)
OEM solo cowl (ordered)
OEM tinted windscreen (ordered)

Flush mounted turn signals (suggestions?)
Slip-on exhaust (not sure which one yet)
Pazzo levers (whenever they get released)
Upgraded headlight (maybe)
 

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Like everybody else, the first thing I did was a fender eliminator and solo cowl. Rear stand spools were a must, along with removing the warning stickers on tank and windscreen (I already knew that a brillo pad would ruin the plastic, and that putting diesel fuel in the tank would ruin the engine). I'm in the process of getting the right paint codes for the white and red, so that I can paint the top of the tank, the "z" of the side panels, and the bottom sides of the tail white, and the black parts of the side fairings red. Trying for a more late 1980s/early 90s Yamaha paint scheme (still missing my RZ350--see avatar).
RZ350 paint scheme would look great on it. I owned one of those (a 1985 model) back in 1987, but with the yellow and black Kenny Roberts Edition color scheme. Loved it! It's one of the few motorcycles I really wish I had never sold.
 

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Ravaloft:

Sorry, my pop-up blocker wouldn't allow a private message to show

The seller I got my levers from doesn't show on eBay at the moment, but I found these:

These are the folding ones.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281460273875?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Non-folding are cheaper:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281460282517?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The YZF-R25 is mostly the same bike as the R3. I took a chance and bought levers listed for the R25 and they fit perfectly on my R3

This seller Halfoxstore, has more colors listed.
Thanks Fang! What colors did you pick and is this a fairly easy swap?
Thinking Titanium(or silver) lever, black extender, black adjuster

Also, I am assuming you told the seller you wanted the levers for a 2015 yzf-r25, right?
 

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Thanks Fang! What colors did you pick and is this a fairly easy swap?
Thinking Titanium(or silver) lever, black extender, black adjuster

Also, I am assuming you told the seller you wanted the levers for a 2015 yzf-r25, right?
Yes, YZF-R3. That's how they were listed in the item description.

I bought Titanium with Blue adjusters for my Blue R3. Just a touch of blue accent seemed to be the right amount to me.

Very easy swap. Just have to slacken the clutch cable adjuster as much as possible, unscrew the slotted screw and remove all the way from the mount, then do a little pulling to get the cable end into the new installed lever. Brake lever is a cinch.
 

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Got my solo cowl and Vagabond fender eliminator installed last night. Anyone else have the Yamaha cowl installed? I noticed the right side has a gap while the left side seems to be pretty flush.

Rear turn signals will eventually be coming off once the integrated tail light with sequential turn signals gets installed.

 

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You do have to be a little careful ordering parts for bikes online. What advertisers are good at is taking your search words and adding or replacing their own descriptions and titles when in fact the part is really NOT made for the Yamaha R3 and won't fit it. Often they bait and switch just to get you to their website in the hope of selling you something else, then the item you were looking for is not listed, but other times your description carries through into the title of the search within their site. Once someone has successfully used a part and reports it works well on their bike, then I feel safer trying it. I just don't want to be the first to try a modification.
 
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