I'm planning to redo the harness to enable it to split into easier to understand looms. The standard wiring is honestly a hot mess. I mostly work on my own bike so I'm probably gonna look for a donor harness to mess around with.So I didn't have to wire it completely from scratch. Basically, a PO hotwired the bike and in doing so, shorted out the 12vdc constant and burnt it out from the primary fuse/relay all the way up to the ignition switch harness. Because of the damage, I had to remove the entire wrap from the main harness all the way back to the battery. Because I had to do that and because this will never be a street bike again, I opted to make some modifications at the same time, those being that I have completely removed wiring/relays/fuses related to the lighting system, horn, and fan and, at the same time, I removed the ignition cylinder completely and rewired so that the kill switch now turns the bike on and off. Factory fuse box is in there, but I have de-pinned everything except the ignition and backup circuits, and then added my own 18 gauge drop that runs up to a dorman 91441 2 wire quick connect that will supply switched 12vdc to the Solo 2 and race transponder.
Honestly unless you're doing it just for fun, complete replacement main harnesses for the R3 are $40 on ebay and can be swapped in a couple hours. If you ARE doing it just for fun, then I'd start with a $300 non-injected/computer controlled craigslist find and work up from there, or maybe dabble with microsquirt if you have the requisite knowledge and really want to get trick.
Found it while racing at njmp and bought it on the way to ncbike. Been on the road since and haven't been back to the shop, but thought I might get some work done so we can track it in oct. Got some more done, waiting for the main relay for final testing before I wrap it all back up.Sweet Jesus! Look at that spaghetti!! Are you rebuilding it in a van?!? Good luck!!!
Check ebay. $40. If you're not removing anything, there's no reason to go into it, it's all pretty straightforward honestly, with the exception of the 4 daisy chained diodes. If you remove the stuff I removed, it's good for ~2.5 pounds, of which one pound is the ignition cylinder.I'm planning to redo the harness to enable it to split into easier to understand looms. The standard wiring is honestly a hot mess. I mostly work on my own bike so I'm probably gonna look for a donor harness to mess around with.