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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there,

Questions are in bold.

I am looking at a dash camera (Viofo MT1) to help deal with police. I don't have accidents (yet). My bike is a 2018 Yamaha R3 (EU not US model).

The first and second image has 3 connectors, the red and black + and - battery connectors with fork terminals. Then the third blue which is just ordinary wire.

The third blue wire is called in their manual the "acc" wire. So I'll refer to it as that.

This allows the dash camera to turn on when the bike is set to the "on" position. I would definitely prefer this compared to the requirement that the ignition is running so I can leave the bike on and engine off if I get pulled over so it catches police lying or using intimidation.

I do not solder accessories to vehicles as that is just bad form, so I need to know what connector to use. I live in New Zealand and access to anything specific or not entirely ordinary is pretty much off-limits due to covid shutting down international shipping (unless using DHL which costs a fortune). For the most part I am limited to Jaycar

Using the attached wiring diagram I was able to determine that the #1 main switch runs from the fuse box however I was unable to locate it - and I'm hoping someone has a photo of their vehicle where they can point it out to me. And I'd appreciate any advice on this installation.
 

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I'm also in NZ.

For accessory wiring, I almost always use the numberplate light to trigger my relay. As, other than for WOF purposes (an NZ Road-worthyness test), the numberplate light has no real purpose.

If you can find them, I'd highly recommend the Posi-Tap and Posi-Lock connectors. I've found them to be extremely reliable.

One thing though - I'm not sure what part of the country you're in, but all of the police that I've dealt with over the years have always been friendly and professional. Perhaps you're over thinking things a bit, or maybe failing the attitude test when dealing with them .

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Discussion Starter #3
I've only been pulled over once. Officer lied and said no other vehicles in vicinity and there's no way he didn't see me accelerating away from the tailgating ute to build the safety cushion needed to turn into the rest area he was camping. Can't pull left because driver was distracted to the point of constantly off roading. Desert road. Definitely didn't fail attitude test and he provided the answers to his questions with his hand on his taser. Belongs in jail for endangering motorcyclists and if I had a dash camera he would be. Can't afford not to have one because after it happened I talked about it and heard similar stories about police targeting vulnerable vehicles in bad faith. Also, my bike was loaded to the brim with long term camping gear lol, clearly not out for a hoon.


So do you just disconnect the number plate light normally then reconnect it for wof or do you manage to wire them both?
 

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I tap the wire.



The reason that I choose the plate light is because, in the unlikely event of an issue, it's a non-critical component.

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Discussion Starter #5
Understood.

I already paid for these + some crimps (had some, but they're locked away in Auckland and I'm now in Dunedin, wont have my stuff for months). I wish I had held out longer, and I'm really not sure why I was in such a rush since the camera is heavily backlogged for money that I wont have for ages lol. When I find something I need to solve I have trouble waiting it out, I like ticking things off.

I will keep an eye out for those as that looks incredibly convenient. Do Jaycar sell them?

68905
 

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It looks like fastbikegear have a couple in stock:




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Discussion Starter #7
It looks like fastbikegear have a couple in stock:




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Thanks! Picked them both up since I might actually need a second one :)
 

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I second this. Posi-taps is a good choice to tap into the license plate light wire. To find the correct wire, I'd use one of the 12v testers which looks like a screwdriver with a pointy tip and light in the handle which lights up when you close the circuit.

I'd check the power draw also. The load on the wire should not exceed the maximum load of the fuse which both the camera and the light will generate (if there will be any load by the camera's blue wire at all).
 

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Don't use the "brake" lamp wire to trigger a dash-cam or similar. It will only have power when you are using the brake!

The license plate lamp wire is a good suggestion and for the reason someone else explained ... if there is a problem of some sort, it's non-critical.
 
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