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Make a lot of sense! I see some chargers have on/off switches, but that would be another thing to remember to manage. I like the idea of having them turn on/off with the ignition for sure. I read some posts where some sourced from the DLR lights wire (blue wire if i remember correctly) so the charging ports activate with ignition.
Would you consider that to be a low amp wire for charging a phone like the S10 and above? maybe @EngineeringAnon can chime in on this too.
I'll read up on relays and how they work/install. Very keen on learning about electrical!


Thank you good sir for the offer - I'm up in Montreal.
Maybe we can setup a call to go over the process once I'm ready to have the mount installed.

Sorry I think I mixed you up with another member. I recently bought the the service manual and was reviewing the schematics for electrical. I could not find a circuit I could gatantee enough power to supply 2 quick charge ports. I recently purchased the tst worx fender eliminator with led licence plate light and cut into my rear light for new light. If you understand relays the controller or switch is what turn on/off the circuit. So attaching my license plate light turns on/off power from batt to my charger. It also has a fuse for safety. I did this cause I already cut the connector and using the relay creates a separate circuit. My bike is brand new and carries it's warranty. Cutting into the main harness will VOID your warranty with probable cause. Because I did not cut main harness and used a relay for seperate circuit and what I modified did not cause issue my warranty should stand. And again that changes on dealerships also. If not sure what you are doing then find someone that does and I can send a simple schematic and instructions. Tampering with electrical can cause fires and other bad situations if you have a bad connection. Bikes vibrate a lot. Any connections should be tight and splices need to be soldered properly with heat shrink tube.
 

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No disrespect intended, but from your language I can tell this is all a bit of a foreign topic to you, And I just want to encourage to to consider whether paying someone $30 to professionally wire a relay and charge port for you isn’t worth the peace of mind and time savings that come with that route vs. the alternative. I’d hate to see you facing headaches down the road because you got a bit ahead of yourself. I’ve known extremely talented engine builders that wouldn’t touch wiring to save their life, there’s no shame in that. Anyhow not trying to discourage you, just seemed worth saying so you can consider. Best of luck regardless.


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Agreed. Any modification you make if not done properly can cause many issues. And void any warranty you may have or sometimes insurance on the vehicle. Proceed with caution with any modification.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
No disrespect intended
Proceed with caution with any modification
Thanks guys for the heads-up and a reality check! I will be sure to seek pros when it comes to things beyond me. I'm not touching this project until further notice.

paying someone $30 to professionally wire a relay and charge port for you isn’t worth the peace of mind
If I can I find a pro at 30 bux, for sure I'll be all over that. The only bike professionals I know are dealer shops and general mechanics that charge about 80-120$ per hour. So it's high enough for me not to go unless it's urgent or I absolutely need to have something done. Since charging a phone is not important enough for me, will wait it out. I'm only exploring the options and learning how it works since a member brought it up!
 

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Thanks guys for the heads-up and a reality check! I will be sure to seek pros when it comes to things beyond me. I'm not touching this project until further notice.


If I can I find a pro at 30 bux, for sure I'll be all over that. The only bike professionals I know are dealer shops and general mechanics that charge about 80-120$ per hour. So it's high enough for me not to go unless it's urgent or I absolutely need to have something done. Since charging a phone is not important enough for me, will wait it out. I'm only exploring the options and learning how it works since a member brought it up!
I would be willing to bet if you called around and spoke to a few of them and told them what you’re wanting to do and that you know the exact wire you want to be tapped, and ask them if they will professionally solder AND heat shrink/weatherproof a connection to a relay that feeds and mount a phone charger for you, that they’d do it and only charge you for the .5 hours of work it takes.


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Thanks guys for the heads-up and a reality check! I will be sure to seek pros when it comes to things beyond me. I'm not touching this project until further notice.


If I can I find a pro at 30 bux, for sure I'll be all over that. The only bike professionals I know are dealer shops and general mechanics that charge about 80-120$ per hour. So it's high enough for me not to go unless it's urgent or I absolutely need to have something done. Since charging a phone is not important enough for me, will wait it out. I'm only exploring the options and learning how it works since a member brought it up!
The other thing is between a soldering iron and some heat shrink tubing and whatever else you’d be buying just for this project you’re already well over the cost even paying the full hourly rate for a full hour. So while I encouraged her to continue your process of learning if you’re interested in learning more about all this I just would caution you to do it at a natural pace and just be honest with yourself as to whether or not it makes sense for you to jump in with both feet so to speak so as to enable you to do it now.

Assuming you want the install done now. Which can basically happen easily before the end of the week if you find a small shop willing to help out, but if you need to buy the soldering iron and helping hand and multimeter to double check your work etc. you’re waiting a bit if you want to do it right and needing a real crash course in all of this.

Anyhow it’s your choice and my only goal is to help you make that choice in an informed manner, so don’t feel pressured into not doing something you had your heart set on doing or vice versa. You seem to have a good head on your shoulders so I trust your judgment which is the only reason I took the time to try and aid you in having the information needed to do so.

In the meantime if you decide to do nothing I think if you have a battery bank that can sort of allow you to take your time as you make your choice

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Discussion Starter #26
So attaching my license plate light turns on/off power from batt to my charger.
This seems to be the most common setup on my brief research as well as the DLR lights wire.
I figured out the basics of the relay and how it works/purpose but have humbly decided to shy away from this project and leave it for the professionals.

Tampering with electrical can cause fires and other bad situations if you have a bad connection.
Amen. This is no joke for sure.

Any connections should be tight and splices need to be soldered properly with heat shrink tube.
I only did one splice using a positap then electric taped the @#[email protected] out of it so that I can have rear running lights on my 3 function turn signals.
The tap was into a harness that I ordered from TST because I didn't want to touch any main wires/harness in case something gives.
To finish off, I ziptied the wires together to keep them as neat as possible.

I would be willing to bet if you called around and spoke to a few of them and told them what you’re wanting to do and that you know the exact wire you want to be tapped, and ask them if they will professionally solder AND heat shrink/weatherproof a connection to a relay that feeds and mount a phone charger for you, that they’d do it and only charge you for the .5 hours of work it takes.
I'm going to select the license plate light as my source for the relay switch and I know exactly where it is. I'll make some calls when I get to this part of my r3 evolution!

Anyhow it’s your choice and my only goal is to help you make that choice in an informed manner, so don’t feel pressured into not doing something you had your heart set on doing or vice versa. You seem to have a good head on your shoulders so I trust your judgment which is the only reason I took the time to try and aid you in having the information needed to do so.
In the meantime if you decide to do nothing I think if you have a battery bank that can sort of allow you to take your time as you make your choice
Correct, I have a batt bank that I carry in my backpack to save the day if I get lost somewhere with no juice in my cell.
Please do note that I still do not want a mount as I don't want the distraction just yet. It is on my things to do as I get more comfortable riding.
However when I'm ready, I'll the let the pro's do their thing because this is some serious stuff but I have to admit that when I saw a couple of 5 pin relay circuit diagram, it really doesn't look that hard lol, but in practice, working in freaking tight spaces, I'm sure the level of difficulty is exponential.
68116


If I'm in a jam, I'll go with a 12V SAE adapter with a 12V charger that @odyssey linked already as I have the battery tender cable sitting in the back of the bike.
This will buy me time until I sharpen my riding skills and find a reasonable shop to do business with.

Appreciate all the insight guys - major props for the clear explanation!
Thanks again.
 

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This seems to be the most common setup on my brief research as well as the DLR lights wire.
I figured out the basics of the relay and how it works/purpose but have humbly decided to shy away from this project and leave it for the professionals.


Amen. This is no joke for sure.


I only did one splice using a positap then electric taped the @#[email protected] out of it so that I can have rear running lights on my 3 function turn signals.
The tap was into a harness that I ordered from TST because I didn't want to touch any main wires/harness in case something gives.
To finish off, I ziptied the wires together to keep them as neat as possible.


I'm going to select the license plate light as my source for the relay switch and I know exactly where it is. I'll make some calls when I get to this part of my r3 evolution!


Correct, I have a batt bank that I carry in my backpack to save the day if I get lost somewhere with no juice in my cell.
Please do note that I still do not want a mount as I don't want the distraction just yet. It is on my things to do as I get more comfortable riding.
However when I'm ready, I'll the let the pro's do their thing because this is some serious stuff but I have to admit that when I saw a couple of 5 pin relay circuit diagram, it really doesn't look that hard lol, but in practice, working in freaking tight spaces, I'm sure the level of difficulty is exponential.
View attachment 68116

If I'm in a jam, I'll go with a 12V SAE adapter with a 12V charger that @odyssey linked already as I have the battery tender cable sitting in the back of the bike.
This will buy me time until I sharpen my riding skills and find a reasonable shop to do business with.

Appreciate all the insight guys - major props for the clear explanation!
Thanks again.
That is it exactly, great job. You do not need the terminal blocks but that is the circuit for sure. You will only use 4 of the 5 pins on the relay and most relays will only have the 4 pins showing. I had the same harness from TST and instead of positap i cut the 2 pin connector from the tail light assembly and soldered it onto the led license plate light, i used that from my controller for my relay, and my relay is under my seat so it was a good location without cutting any additional wiring. The less you change or cut into the better and less to go wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
That is it exactly, great job. You do not need the terminal blocks but that is the circuit for sure. You will only use 4 of the 5 pins on the relay and most relays will only have the 4 pins showing. I had the same harness from TST and instead of positap i cut the 2 pin connector from the tail light assembly and soldered it onto the led license plate light, i used that from my controller for my relay, and my relay is under my seat so it was a good location without cutting any additional wiring. The less you change or cut into the better and less to go wrong.
Thanks for the words of encouragement! As long as instructions are clear, I can catch on ok :) - having an IT background helps for the logical stuff!
Talk soon!
 

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This seems to be the most common setup on my brief research as well as the DLR lights wire.
I figured out the basics of the relay and how it works/purpose but have humbly decided to shy away from this project and leave it for the professionals.


Amen. This is no joke for sure.


I only did one splice using a positap then electric taped the @#[email protected] out of it so that I can have rear running lights on my 3 function turn signals.
The tap was into a harness that I ordered from TST because I didn't want to touch any main wires/harness in case something gives.
To finish off, I ziptied the wires together to keep them as neat as possible.


I'm going to select the license plate light as my source for the relay switch and I know exactly where it is. I'll make some calls when I get to this part of my r3 evolution!


Correct, I have a batt bank that I carry in my backpack to save the day if I get lost somewhere with no juice in my cell.
Please do note that I still do not want a mount as I don't want the distraction just yet. It is on my things to do as I get more comfortable riding.
However when I'm ready, I'll the let the pro's do their thing because this is some serious stuff but I have to admit that when I saw a couple of 5 pin relay circuit diagram, it really doesn't look that hard lol, but in practice, working in freaking tight spaces, I'm sure the level of difficulty is exponential.
View attachment 68116

If I'm in a jam, I'll go with a 12V SAE adapter with a 12V charger that @odyssey linked already as I have the battery tender cable sitting in the back of the bike.
This will buy me time until I sharpen my riding skills and find a reasonable shop to do business with.

Appreciate all the insight guys - major props for the clear explanation!
Thanks again.
To clarify it’s not a “difficulty” issue, and certainly not a capability issue. Most of us are capable of doing this, it’s simply a educational/experience/awareness issue and you can’t possibly know what you don’t know in reference to a topic you aren’t familiar with. “You” meaning all of us. If it seems like something you want to tackle you won’t likely die attempting it, just understand there’s potential significant ramifications including putting a dent in the resale value of your bike etc etc.

At the very least I would suggest avoiding electrical tape. If your going to do it take the time to do it right. Go and purchase, in store or online the proper connectors and heat shrink/weatherproof sheathing etc. you don’t want your brake lights or anything in that area failing on you, and electrical tape is a major turn off to prospective buyers, it never lasts and is a warning sign that wiring/electrical issues are likely soon to come.

Anyhow that’s all just my POV, and I encourage you to follow your instincts, just understand any potential consequences of doing so and move forward from there.


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Thanks for the words of encouragement! As long as instructions are clear, I can catch on ok :) - having an IT background helps for the logical stuff!
Talk soon!
Sounds like you’re doing well, just take photos as you go before and after so you can make any corrections needed and seek input if you run into any issues. If you have an IT background you will likely also find it amusing, if scary, how easily the R3 an be started without the key. Literally just need to complete a circuit, which is done most easily on the fly by pinching two cables together with clamping pliers, and you can start her up.


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Discussion Starter #31
Go and purchase, in store or online the proper connectors and heat shrink/weatherproof sheathing etc
Done! they are on the way, gonna practice with some cables/batteries this winter, since I want to learn. I highly doubt I will touch my bike for the relay tbvh.
We will see about it next season lol.

At the very least I would suggest avoiding electrical tape.
I can respect that for sure - but in my defense if I may, I kept in mind to topsitap to a harness that I can remove when, some crazy reason, I sell my bike, I'm keeping my 3 function turn lights for the next one hands down! so I'll just plug back OEM and there is no cut or tape on any of those. The tape was to make sure that positap doesn't dance around due to vibrations. I would never tape wires together, the tape would just melt over time no? but again, its LED and such low power going through, but still an unnecessary risk to take for anyone.

just take photos as you go before and after so you can make any corrections needed and seek input if you run into any issues.
Done and done! just like any project - documentation is key.

Literally just need to complete a circuit, which is done most easily on the fly by pinching two cables together with clamping pliers, and you can start her up
Seriously? lol. Thanks for teaching me something new man!
 
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