So it looks like the shock is mounted to the swingarm without a normal linkage so it can only be lowered by installing a shorter shock. My woman still wants to buy her R3 but it's too tall for her little legs. Does anyone have any info about lowering the R3 ? Will it be possible to drop the front an inch and get a shock that's an inch shorter ? I haven't even seen it in person yet to see for myself what can be done. Help please.
R1-Dave
After looking at more pictures, it looks like the forks can be raised in the triples. That would fix one end at least. Can anyone confirm this ? A shorter spring on the shock would be a temp solution for the rear, even though it'll mess with the shocks ability to work normally. The seat looks thick enough to remove some material to get a half inch at least. I really want to make this work for her.
Because the shock is directly attached to the swinging arm, a shorter shock, custom configured by a motorcycle suspension shop, is the only way to lower the bike. There are no such shocks available "off-the-shelf" that I'm aware of.
Every little bit helps, and a combination of using elevated boots, shaving down the seat, and using lower profile tires (150/60-17), may be enough for some riders, and if so, then suspension mods may not be necessary for them.
Every little bit helps, and a combination of using elevated boots, shaving down the seat, and using lower profile tires (150/60-17), may be enough for some riders, and if so, then suspension mods may not be necessary for them.
I find 30.9" to bit a touch too high on my other bike, which only cost $85 to lower with a link at top of shock + no-cost to slip clamps down front tubes (well, kickstand needs adjustment, $25 for welding or $85 for an adjustable one). Hopefully a cost effective solution pops up for the R3, otherwise the N300 is going to remain king even further for beginners and small light-weight bike lovers.
I got my R3 3 weeks ago and I think I really need to get it lowered. I'm 5"2 and it's my first bike, and I've already dropped it at least 6 times. Losing balance as my feet aren't flat on the ground.
Prior to purchasing it, my dealer told me they'd be able to lower it, but didn't think I really needed to since I could "tip-toe" both my feet. I decided I wouldn't lower it since I rode fine on the Honda CBR125 during my Safety courses. Boy was I wrong. I decided to go back to my dealer since they said they could do it for me and turns out, they lied! They told me that there was no lowering kit out for the bike yet, and there will never be a lowering kit since the links are different in the R3. They referred me to a company that would completely change the suspension for me.
That's not something I'm looking to do, so if anyone else knows of a way to lower the bike WITHOUT changing the suspension completely (as that might also be dangerous), I'd love a followup on this post!
Prior to purchasing it, my dealer told me they'd be able to lower it, but didn't think I really needed to since I could "tip-toe" both my feet. I decided I wouldn't lower it since I rode fine on the Honda CBR125 during my Safety courses. Boy was I wrong. I decided to go back to my dealer since they said they could do it for me and turns out, they lied! They told me that there was no lowering kit out for the bike yet, and there will never be a lowering kit since the links are different in the R3. They referred me to a company that would completely change the suspension for me.
That's not something I'm looking to do, so if anyone else knows of a way to lower the bike WITHOUT changing the suspension completely (as that might also be dangerous), I'd love a followup on this post!
Ok. I know this isn't cheap, and I don't know if it would work, but this Ohlins shock states that it has adjustable height (found this shock in another thread). Question is what the range of adjustment is. If it can be adjusted shorter than stock, then here is your answer. You'll get a sweet rear shock as a bonus. Might be worth an email to someone to find out.
https://www.ohlins.eu/en/motorcycle/shock-absorber-Road-Track-YA-467--4988/
https://www.ohlins.eu/en/motorcycle/shock-absorber-Road-Track-YA-467--4988/
This shock is cheapest through KD Project Racing. To have it shipped outside of Thailand you must email Anutad Vongchant directly. He quoted me 21,300 baht, which converts to $632.02, shipped to Missouri, USA. That's a smokin' deal on a great shock.
Ride height is adjustable, but I'm not positive that it'll allow you to lower the bike.
Ride height is adjustable, but I'm not positive that it'll allow you to lower the bike.
They also shave seats to lower the seat ht. a little. The back of the bike which is the highest point would still be just as high so it probably wouldn't be any easier getting on and off of, if that is also an issue. Upholsterers shave seats and there will likely be someone around that dealers use if you call. They remove the staples, take off the covering, cut away part of the foam and replace the covering. Keep watching the Corbin site too. They are the big name in after-market seats and make lower seats for a variety of bikes. I absolutely agree you need the bike lowered. This thing of only being able to touch with your tip toes will cause you to drop the bike...backing out, stopping on a slope, putting your toe down on loose gravel and it slides out. If I can't flat foot a bike, I don't buy it.
Just putting it out there.. I'm also in search of a shorter shock that can be adapted to fit. I'm fairly tall.. I can get both feet on the ground mostly...and I still would like it to be lower. I don't want to F up the seat by 'shaving' it or any of that other nonsense(there isn't much to take off if you really look, honestly). I also think it would look quite nice being lower.. so from a style perspective... I'd like to see 1 inch. I don't plan on racing this thing or being a 'Street-Rossi' with it... I did some rough measurements to see if the rake and trail would still be OK... it would be. I'm thinking there must be an ATV shock out there that is a little shorter... the width of the eyes on each end doesn't really matter I suppose as long as the diameter is at least as big as the current bolt size.. Everything else can be fixed with some machined spacers..
The search continues...
The search continues...
Two suggestions.
1. Buy a lighter weight rated spring for the stock shock allowing your bike to settle to your proper "race sag". You could even go a bit lighter to get deeper sag. The fork springs are already pretty light, but some very light riders may benefit from lighter still. Look up race sag and get a friend and measure yours.
It does matter! Report back your race sag numbers and we can try to help with proper rates. I'd try to get at least 2" race sag at minimum preload that you can dial up to get less sag as you adjust your habits.
2. Practice sliding to one side to plant one foot down solidly. Riding is not a static activity. You must move, even on a street bike. I've taught many, including my three kids, to ride dirt bikes that commonly don't allow anyone to put two feet down at one time. When my sons moved up to a bigger bike they usually needed to fall off the side to stop and start off kinda side saddle and swing over the bike after it was moving.
Your tip overs will diminish with confidence. Practice builds confidence. See here this is going? In a safe area, practice starting and stopping and moving to one side to plant that foot when you stop. I recommend stopping in first gear and planting the left foot so you can keep your right on the brake to stop from rolling with the grade of a road.
Practice, practice, practice.
1. Buy a lighter weight rated spring for the stock shock allowing your bike to settle to your proper "race sag". You could even go a bit lighter to get deeper sag. The fork springs are already pretty light, but some very light riders may benefit from lighter still. Look up race sag and get a friend and measure yours.
It does matter! Report back your race sag numbers and we can try to help with proper rates. I'd try to get at least 2" race sag at minimum preload that you can dial up to get less sag as you adjust your habits.
2. Practice sliding to one side to plant one foot down solidly. Riding is not a static activity. You must move, even on a street bike. I've taught many, including my three kids, to ride dirt bikes that commonly don't allow anyone to put two feet down at one time. When my sons moved up to a bigger bike they usually needed to fall off the side to stop and start off kinda side saddle and swing over the bike after it was moving.
Your tip overs will diminish with confidence. Practice builds confidence. See here this is going? In a safe area, practice starting and stopping and moving to one side to plant that foot when you stop. I recommend stopping in first gear and planting the left foot so you can keep your right on the brake to stop from rolling with the grade of a road.
Practice, practice, practice.
So it seems like the consensus is that the bike can't really be lowered - now, or even in the future. Either practice and get better, or I'm SOL. Probably not likely, but does anyone have experience in dealing with a misleading dealer?
The salesperson fully knew that this was going to be my first bike - I've never even sat on a bike before I got to their showroom. They actually told me not to buy a Ninja300 or CBR300 and convinced me to buy an R3 - they told me it could be lowered. After hearing all your thoughts on the subject (thanks a lot btw!) I now know better.
Advice on this subject would be great as well! FYI, I'm located in Toronto, Canada if that helps.
The salesperson fully knew that this was going to be my first bike - I've never even sat on a bike before I got to their showroom. They actually told me not to buy a Ninja300 or CBR300 and convinced me to buy an R3 - they told me it could be lowered. After hearing all your thoughts on the subject (thanks a lot btw!) I now know better.
Advice on this subject would be great as well! FYI, I'm located in Toronto, Canada if that helps.
It can be lowered, it just isn't going to be cheap.
Why don't you want to just improve your skills? Not only will you stop falling over, it could save your life. I'm not getting what you were expecting here. In a few hours of good practice you can beat this issue. If your not willing to do that maybe the sport isn't really for you?
Not being snippy, being sincere. It's not a friendly environment to operate a motorcycle on the street. Being able to touch the ground with both feet is the least of your concerns if your serious about riding. Your at the beginning of a loooong journey to really learn how to ride. Not falling over is just a tiny step.
Why don't you want to just improve your skills? Not only will you stop falling over, it could save your life. I'm not getting what you were expecting here. In a few hours of good practice you can beat this issue. If your not willing to do that maybe the sport isn't really for you?
Not being snippy, being sincere. It's not a friendly environment to operate a motorcycle on the street. Being able to touch the ground with both feet is the least of your concerns if your serious about riding. Your at the beginning of a loooong journey to really learn how to ride. Not falling over is just a tiny step.
You can disagree, but you missed most if the point. Proper instruction and practice can get this behind almost any new rider, but I'm guessing by the tone of the posts they (jazz mint) don't want to continue building skills and putting in the work.
Starting on a small play bike, like a TTr125 is about the best way to learn, but most new street riders impulse buy and don't know what they are getting into. A few weekends in a sandy field with a teacher and a mini thumper pays big dividends.
Starting on a small play bike, like a TTr125 is about the best way to learn, but most new street riders impulse buy and don't know what they are getting into. A few weekends in a sandy field with a teacher and a mini thumper pays big dividends.
Regarding my comment about it being possible but not cheap...
You need a rebuildable shock first, then a suspension shop can internally lower it and match the overall drop with a spacer in the forks to keep it at factory geometry. It's not uncommon, or unsafe if done correctly. It's also not super cheap, like a lowering link. Expect the cost of the shock and lowering both ends to exceed $1000.
I'd suggest you try my original advice regarding race sag, spring rates and overcoming the height by practicing skootching your butt to one side and planting one foot.
Motorcycling is neither cheap or easy if you plan to survive it.
You need a rebuildable shock first, then a suspension shop can internally lower it and match the overall drop with a spacer in the forks to keep it at factory geometry. It's not uncommon, or unsafe if done correctly. It's also not super cheap, like a lowering link. Expect the cost of the shock and lowering both ends to exceed $1000.
I'd suggest you try my original advice regarding race sag, spring rates and overcoming the height by practicing skootching your butt to one side and planting one foot.
Motorcycling is neither cheap or easy if you plan to survive it.
In an ideal world, everyone would start at 5 years old, on a 50cc pocket bike, with professional instruction financed by their parents, and continue progressing from there
However, the reality is that riders will start at different ages, on different motorcycles, with different monetary budgets and time constraints, with different life skills, and with different physical and cognitive abilities. If jazzmin_t has weekends free, and has a sandy field available nearby, and there is a willing and knowledgeable teacher, and has access to ride a mini-thumper, then yes, it would be likely that her street riding skills will improve with Navin's methodology. However there are other ways to improve riding skills, and they often include a motorcycle that feels physically and emotionally comfortable for the rider.
However, the reality is that riders will start at different ages, on different motorcycles, with different monetary budgets and time constraints, with different life skills, and with different physical and cognitive abilities. If jazzmin_t has weekends free, and has a sandy field available nearby, and there is a willing and knowledgeable teacher, and has access to ride a mini-thumper, then yes, it would be likely that her street riding skills will improve with Navin's methodology. However there are other ways to improve riding skills, and they often include a motorcycle that feels physically and emotionally comfortable for the rider.
The best I can do from here is explain the proper technique they should practice. Riding a bike does not equal sitting stagnant on the seat and letting it control you.
The butt skootch was necessary for me to ride and race a KTM Super Enduro off road that I outfitted with a "tall" custom seat. I'm 6-01. I couldn't reach the other peg when I stopped. most dirt bike riders learn this early on. I can't flat foot my MX bike either.
I get new riders like to touch flat with both feet. It's not always going to happen, like on a hill, so if they want to learn, this is how it's done.
Jazzmint, give it a try in a safe place. Heck, try it stopped on the side stand. Slide to the left and plant that foot while the other rests on the peg and brake.
Or, even better, find a friend with a pit bike and get some time on it practicing basic skills in an open, soft dirt or grass field. When you feel comfortable, give the street bike another go.
The butt skootch was necessary for me to ride and race a KTM Super Enduro off road that I outfitted with a "tall" custom seat. I'm 6-01. I couldn't reach the other peg when I stopped. most dirt bike riders learn this early on. I can't flat foot my MX bike either.
I get new riders like to touch flat with both feet. It's not always going to happen, like on a hill, so if they want to learn, this is how it's done.
Jazzmint, give it a try in a safe place. Heck, try it stopped on the side stand. Slide to the left and plant that foot while the other rests on the peg and brake.
Or, even better, find a friend with a pit bike and get some time on it practicing basic skills in an open, soft dirt or grass field. When you feel comfortable, give the street bike another go.
To get proper sag at the lowest cost, try these guys.
http://www.cannonracecraft.com
It might require you to send your shock spring to them for measurement. I'd suggest having the race sag measurement ready to tell them if you call too.
Measure a fixed point from the seat area directly above the axle to the axle with the rear wheel off the ground. It needs to be a repeatable measurement, like to a point on the body, seat, something fixed.
Next, assume a normal riding position in your commonly worn gear, have a friend steady the bike by the front bars. Have another take that same measurement from earlier, then subtract it from the first number. This is race sag.
Repeat again with just the weight of the bike on the wheels. Balance it upright again. Subtract this from the unladen measurement, this is your bike sag.
A suspension company will need both these numbers to get you a correct spring since this bike is relatively unknown right now.
http://www.cannonracecraft.com
It might require you to send your shock spring to them for measurement. I'd suggest having the race sag measurement ready to tell them if you call too.
Measure a fixed point from the seat area directly above the axle to the axle with the rear wheel off the ground. It needs to be a repeatable measurement, like to a point on the body, seat, something fixed.
Next, assume a normal riding position in your commonly worn gear, have a friend steady the bike by the front bars. Have another take that same measurement from earlier, then subtract it from the first number. This is race sag.
Repeat again with just the weight of the bike on the wheels. Balance it upright again. Subtract this from the unladen measurement, this is your bike sag.
A suspension company will need both these numbers to get you a correct spring since this bike is relatively unknown right now.
I guess I should have filled in a little more information. Again, I appreciate everyone's input. First off, this was not an impulse buy. I DID take lessons, and I also passed part 2 (of 3) in Ontario's licensing requirements. On a Honda 125, I was also too short, but the bike was a lot lighter. Leaning to one side and not having both feet flat foot was not a problem for me. The R3 is obviously quite different.
I've had the bike for almost a month now, after ordering it two months ago. It was not an impulse buy. As most of you probably know, there is a long waiting list for the bike. If it was impulse, I could have backed out anytime within the time I ordered the bike and the time I actually purchased it. I have no problems riding the bike. For all I care, the bike could be 3 feet off the ground - riding it is not the problem. The problem is when I'm stopped. I do not physically have the leg strength to support the leaning bike with only one foot. FYI, I'm a female and I'm only 5'2". I also weight less than 100 pounds. I've practiced around my neighbourhood and in parking lots. So lack of practice and commitment isn't the problem. The commitment is definitely there, and the practice is still on-going. But physically, stopping on a slope and backing up the bike (ex. out of a parking spot) is a huge problem for me.
I've done a lot of talking and research on this thread and to experienced riders IRL, and many people have stated that lowering the shocks is potentially very unsafe. There is no one in my area that specializes in doing that and I don't feel safe just going to the first garage that offers to do it - regardless of price. Again, thanks for all the input. I'm just going to have to speak to my dealer and hope for the best. I know this is an R3 forum, but a recommendation between the Ninja and CBR300 would be great. Or even some input if someone thinks I should get an even smaller engine.
I've had the bike for almost a month now, after ordering it two months ago. It was not an impulse buy. As most of you probably know, there is a long waiting list for the bike. If it was impulse, I could have backed out anytime within the time I ordered the bike and the time I actually purchased it. I have no problems riding the bike. For all I care, the bike could be 3 feet off the ground - riding it is not the problem. The problem is when I'm stopped. I do not physically have the leg strength to support the leaning bike with only one foot. FYI, I'm a female and I'm only 5'2". I also weight less than 100 pounds. I've practiced around my neighbourhood and in parking lots. So lack of practice and commitment isn't the problem. The commitment is definitely there, and the practice is still on-going. But physically, stopping on a slope and backing up the bike (ex. out of a parking spot) is a huge problem for me.
I've done a lot of talking and research on this thread and to experienced riders IRL, and many people have stated that lowering the shocks is potentially very unsafe. There is no one in my area that specializes in doing that and I don't feel safe just going to the first garage that offers to do it - regardless of price. Again, thanks for all the input. I'm just going to have to speak to my dealer and hope for the best. I know this is an R3 forum, but a recommendation between the Ninja and CBR300 would be great. Or even some input if someone thinks I should get an even smaller engine.
My girlfriend is also 5' 2" and under 100lbs. We tried fitting her on the R3 but it was tough. 2 weeks ago I traded in my lowered cbr250r for this R3. Yesterday I tried to buy the cbr back for her but alas, it just sold. We're now looking for another one for her. That cbr was fun and easy to lower with Vortex lowering links. I imagine the cbr300r would be the same. If you feel at the end of the day you really want to switch, I'd recommend the cbr. Even with a 250r, with you being such a light rider, you'll haul ass on it. Good luck!
Check out the CB300f too. Standard style bike but pretty light. Might be better off on a Grom from Honda? Very easy to manage.
I think in Canada you can get the CBR125 too. Another decent candidate. I know full size guys who love them.
I had a Ninja 300, I don't think it's different enough from the R3 to be a better choice. A bit heavier, definitely not as well built.
Back to the other stuff, lowering it is not dangerous if done correctly. If you choose this route, you need a new shock first. Race Tech or Factory Connection are two big names in the USA. If you can't find a suspension specific shop, you aren't looking hard enough. They are up there. Ask a motocross guy.
I'd still recommend measuring your race sag and trying a lighter rear spring. The bikes are built to an average standard, it's usually not right for a 100 or 200 lbs rider.
Also, it's not a matter of strength, it's balance. The pressure on your leg should not be the full weight of the bike. With good balance, from practice again, your foot shouldn't bear any serious load. It's a finesse thing. If your stopping and flopping over because of the bike weight, you are laying the bike over. If you can try it, hang off the left side before you stop, keep the bike up and lightly stop. Just touching your foot down to keep it balanced.
Seriously, a single toe can bear the weight if you are still balancing the bike.
I think in Canada you can get the CBR125 too. Another decent candidate. I know full size guys who love them.
I had a Ninja 300, I don't think it's different enough from the R3 to be a better choice. A bit heavier, definitely not as well built.
Back to the other stuff, lowering it is not dangerous if done correctly. If you choose this route, you need a new shock first. Race Tech or Factory Connection are two big names in the USA. If you can't find a suspension specific shop, you aren't looking hard enough. They are up there. Ask a motocross guy.
I'd still recommend measuring your race sag and trying a lighter rear spring. The bikes are built to an average standard, it's usually not right for a 100 or 200 lbs rider.
Also, it's not a matter of strength, it's balance. The pressure on your leg should not be the full weight of the bike. With good balance, from practice again, your foot shouldn't bear any serious load. It's a finesse thing. If your stopping and flopping over because of the bike weight, you are laying the bike over. If you can try it, hang off the left side before you stop, keep the bike up and lightly stop. Just touching your foot down to keep it balanced.
Seriously, a single toe can bear the weight if you are still balancing the bike.
If anyone knew the specific data about the original then it would be a matter of searching for a shocker that has your preferred height. That's what I am aiming for but so far I am unable to find the exact dimensions of the original.
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