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Michelin Pilot Street - The Stock Tire Thread

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#81 ·
stock tires?? no enough grip??

hello everyone i just have a question.. do you notice that the stock michellin pilot tires does no have enough grip when you do spirited riding.. i just had about a 45degree angle taking a turn and i could feel my rear end slipping most of the time.. anyone has any input on this matter?? remedies??

thank you!!!!
 
#82 ·
Its the bias ply carcass design more than the grip.


Put some DR2 or S20 radials on and it transformed the bike.
After the first 50km I was over the 1980's Michelin wheelbarrow tyres, fights you on the tip in, wobbles under power, and is very nasty coming back up off the turns.
Destroys what is such a sweet bike.
 
#84 ·
OP- In my first few miles of riding I managed to slip the rear a bit as well. I only have 5-600 miles on the bike and tires but for my style of riding I think tires do not have as much grip as I would like. I will differ from Aufit's opinion on how they feel. For me they tip in smoother than my old Ninja with Q3s, but that is an unfair apples to oranges comparison, since that bike had a different size tire, a different profile, and overall different and heavier bike.

My honest opinion is for a rider who is looking to take the tire to its absolute limits (IE a track guy or a very aggressive canyon rider, the tires suck. For average joe who is mostly commuting and doing some canyons and moderate speeds, not going all the way to the edge at knee dragging speeds, the tire will work out fine. I have dragged knee on the stock tires and they gripped fine. I also find the profile kind of weird. On my stock tires, I am no where near the edge on the rear, I have about 20mm ledt before I am at the edge of the tire. The front however is like 3-4mm from the edge. On another rider's R3 with S20 EVOs he has taken the rear all the way to the edge but the front still has quite a bit of meat left to the edge. Just a weird observation for me, as I was under the impression that it takes more to get the front to the edge than the rear.

Aufit- I switched to an S20 but I wont install them till my upcoming (first for me, YAY!) track day on the 16th of October. If the S20s suck I will hold you accountable! Kidding aside, I personally liek the S20s far mroe than any other tire I have had, since they felt amazing on my ZX6R. I like them better than Q3's which everyone around here rave about.
 
#85 ·
Image





Found these old DR2's under a bench in the shed,
They had been used in 2013 for racing and umpteen track days, so many heat cycles they were purple. Fitted them and ran 4 secs off the 300 lap record, and half a sec under my own 250 racing Pb.
Nothing special by race standards but not shabby for running in a new Lams bike in road gear, the old DR2's are **** good value and they just dont wear out.
Got a set of bridgestone S20 Evo's to go on to push to new levels
 
#88 ·
gevR3 said:
thanks for the input guys!! im going to ride with this a little bit more maybe it was the road conditions too.. i really have no clue anyways thanks for the inputs!!!!
Click to expand...
How hard are you really riding it? Are you a "at the edge of the tire" guy most f the time? If so maybe you should upgrade tires. Otherwise, they should be fine for most commuting and spirited canyon rides as long as you arent pushing it to the very edge on your canyon rides.
 
#89 ·
If you want to have fun and feel safe and confident leaning your bike over, Get some s20 evos and be done. It takes this bike to the next level without worrying if they might slide out. They are track day worthy and the best upgrade you can do the the bike for the money. If moneys tight, just get the rear for now. . The tires are around $120 each online and your local dealer will probably match the price and can put them on for you for a few bucks. I have them and I've been doing alot of corners, I'm not super fast or anything, but I can lean them all the way to the edge of the tire and I've never felt unsure that they might slide out. They give you confidence. I don't think you can say that about the stock tires.
 
#90 ·
It sucks that Yamaha went cheap on the tires to save a few bucks and we have to upgrade right away, On the bright side, tires are cheap for this bike and with some good tires you can corner like the more expensive bikes and still have money in the bank.
 
#91 ·
#93 · (Edited)
Kojiiro said:
I paid $190 front and back, shipped from rockymountainatv. 2 day shipping. Here in SD I have my mechanic mount for $30 both tires if they are off the bike.
Click to expand...
Rockymountainatv's current pricing is $199.76 for the pair in the R3-correct 54H front/66H rear load ratings. Front = $90.88/Rear = $108.88

You can get the front in a 54W for $82.68 but the higher 'W' speed rating would mean a less comfortable ride due to increased tire stiffness. A tire capable of running at high speeds requires a more stiff construction in order to provide the necessary high speed stability and durability.
Also, using front and rear tires with different speed ratings (and stiffness) is definitely NOT recommended as it could affect handling and stability.

Before posting I checked them for pricing and found they were only $1.00 cheaper than BikeBandit. I've had problems with Rockymountainatv before so I opted to recommend Bikebandit instead. I've bought lots of stuff from them and never had a problem. A few times, when ordering over the phone, they even offered me an additional 5% or 10% off of their online price.
 
#94 ·
You are right, it is 108 for the rear. Not are why I thought it was $100. Previous bike tire maybe? I've ordered from them and bike bandit with no probs. Rocky Mountain does ship faster though. I specifically buy tires from them since the shipping is free after $99 and it's literally two days or less. I ordered my front tire mid day Monday and still got it the same day as my rear, which I ordered the Sunday prior to. They arrived this afternoon. I was originally going to do only rear tire but went ahead and got both.
 
#95 ·
#96 · (Edited)
Aufitt said:
Good god, that's only $280 AUD, we pay $400 here.
Its a no brainer, I'd put a new set on every second ride!


Ive used about ten sets of BT003 & DR2's in the past 4 years on 250's,
Click to expand...
Yeah, but then there's this from one of your past posts:

"$4370.44 US Dollars

Licensed, on road, ride away, ABS standard.
Bikes are cheap In WA."

I paid $5400 USD on road, ride away, no ABS (didn't want it anyway).

So you had an extra $1,030 USD to spend on tires, etc. and with the cheap cost of bikes in WA you can just buy a new one when your 2nd oil change comes due! :)

NOTE: when we buy from a company that is out of state, we don't pay any taxes, unless they also have a bricks & mortar warehouse or retail store in our state, too.
 
#97 ·
Kojiiro said:
You are right, it is 108 for the rear. Not are why I thought it was $100. Previous bike tire maybe? I've ordered from them and bike bandit with no probs. Rocky Mountain does ship faster though. I specifically buy tires from them since the shipping is free after $99 and it's literally two days or less. I ordered my front tire mid day Monday and still got it the same day as my rear, which I ordered the Sunday prior to. They arrived this afternoon. I was originally going to do only rear tire but went ahead and got both.
Click to expand...
It's all good.

Bandit also does the free shipping for orders over $99 and they have their Bandit Bucks Rewards program if you set up an account.

I also like sportbiketrackgear and revzilla. Never a problem with either one of them.
 
#98 ·
Kojiiro said:
How hard are you really riding it? Are you a "at the edge of the tire" guy most f the time? If so maybe you should upgrade tires. Otherwise, they should be fine for most commuting and spirited canyon rides as long as you arent pushing it to the very edge on your canyon rides.
Click to expand...
i wont say that i am riding it that hard cause im still a beginner rider.. it just tends to slip every now and then when i try to make a more aggressive lean..
 
#99 ·
gevR3, I could get all preachy and tell you that you need to be smooth and not make abrubt i puts to the bike and the stock tires will do way more than you think they will......... But the truth is the stock tires suck. Get decent rubber on the bike and get some more training. LEE PARKS TOTAL CONTROL if it's available in your area or anythi g you can get your hands on. Training pays the biggest dividends and stays with you no matter what bike you're riding.
 
#100 ·
FangShui said:
You can get the front in a 54W load rating for $82.68 but it's not the correct load rating for the R3 and could be unsafe, particularly at higher speeds or if riding 2-up.
Click to expand...
I've been looking up tire ratings and is this not backwards?

54 would be the load rating at 212kg/467lbs

H speed rating would be 130mph

W speed rating would be 168mph

So with that, a 54H and 54W would have the same load rating, but the W would have a higher speed rating. Wouldn't I want the W over the H?
 
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